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The 10-volt battery is bad. The easy way to check the motor is to disconnect it from the controller and connect it to the good battery, even with a 12-volt battery applied directly to the motor it should have enough power to pull you and the board.
Grandpa Chas S.
Thanks for the advice Grandpa Chas,
I found a good 12 Volt batttery out of a UPS I am not using,
I am going to try to replace the bad one with that. It is only 3.5Ah, but it should still work right ?
It will just give less run time than 2 X 4.5Ah batts.
You are correct, just remember when power starts to drop off the 3.5 AH battery is getting very weak. If you continue to draw this can cause both batteries to go bad before their time. It will work but it is not a good idea to mix batteries like that. You would be better off if you found 2 batteries with the same rating even if they are a little smaller.
Grandpa Chas S.
Thanks again Grandpa Chas,
It turns out the 3.5 Ah 12 Volt batt wont fit,
so I will prob need to buy a new 4.5Ah one
I will most likely buy 2 new 4.5Ah 12 V batts,
then at least I can do the 36Volt upgrade that Link did.
Question, do you think the current battery went bad because I overused it ?
The manual does say don't let the battery drain to nothing,
I did not do this, but I did keep using it until there was noticeable power loss.
The brand of battery the G1 came with was made by Zhongshan Hengli Elec. Appl. FTY
I think I will buy TOYO brand replacements.
They are about $13.95 each
Anybody ever buy batteries from this site ?
http://www.beiterbatteries.com/12v_45ah.htm
Here's a pic of the stock battery in the G1.
Here are some pics of the G1 internals, motor, controller.
So people can follow some of Links mods.
A question for Link about your 36 Volt upgrade for the G1.
You just connect a third 12v 4.5Ah battery in series.
Do I need a new 36volt controller and charger ?
Suggestion on where to buy ?
I am thinking about doing the upgrade, but first just want to get the
G1 working again as a normal 24V setup.
Thanks,
Ok, I ordered 2 12V 4.5Ah replacement batts online.
I also ordered a 36Volt charger.
I read Link's member vehicle page,
and it looks like the stock controller will work with 36 volts.
Link can you please confirm when you have time.
In future I am going to do the 36volt upgrade,
but at first I will just get it working again with 24volts.
I wanted to get 2 new batt of the same kind, just so they are matched.
I was a little worried the one good stock batt, could go bad too,
and then possibly ruin the new batt, so better to get 2 new ones.
The problem seems to be that they drifted out of balance. It happens, I guess. The 10V could never fully charge and the one that's at 14V is way overcharged, and it probably gassed. You might want to replace that one, too.
Best thing to do is get 3 matched batteries. A 12V charger to balance them out every so often would be a good idea, too.
Anyway, yes. The stock controller will handle 36V. The caps and FETs in the controller are rated for 50V (which is too low for a 48V system, though). The voltage regulator that feeds the logic seems to stay in spec, though I never checked.
There's a few logistical challenges to actually fitting everything into the board, but, you're right, it's as simple as adding a 3rd 12V in series with the two existing ones.
It may be worth noting that the boards that look exactly like the G1 but are colored (usually blue or yellow) seem to have a high voltage cutout, so cannot be made to run on 36V easily.
The author of this post isn't responsible for any injury, disability or dismemberment, death, financial loss, illness, addiction, hereditary disease, or any other undesirable consequence or general misfortune resulting from use of the "information" contai
Also regarding the different kinds of wheels,
I was thinking of putting some off road wheels on the G1,
so I could go on grass too.
Just a quick update.
I fixed my G1 Elect skateboard.
I put a new battery in it to replace the one that only charged to 10 volts.
It works fine now.
Another question for Link, when you put in 3 Batts for 36 Volts,
what was your top speed, and how controllable was the skateboard.
Also, how did you mod it to have variable speed throttle ?
I probably only will do 36 volts, not 48 volts.
My next project is fixing a Quazar scooter, 350W motor, and 36Volts.
I had to order a new controller, as the one it came with was fried.
However, the scooter only cost me $50.00,
and the controller cost almost as much.
Thanks to Grandpa Chas, and Link for their help and suggestions on how to fix my G1.
I don't know what my top speed was, actually. I never checked. I do know that it was a lot more fun than 24V, though. :D
It was pretty controllable, and I never really spent that much time on the thing.
I didn't. I only had a throttle on the one 48V test ride that I took. That was a very different setup. The controller was different, and the batteries were in a backpack, because they never would have fit in the skateboard. It wasn't even a proper skateboard throttle. It was just a half-twist bike throttle.
Supposedly, the "mock G1s" (the colored ones) have throttles made for them, although I don't know where you can get them. These will work with the G1 if you can find them. The controller has a plug for the throttle; it's just shorted out in the stock configuration.
48V was insane. The board was very hard to keep stable, it could take off way to fast to stand on, and I'm sure the wheels wouldn't have lasted a dozen rides going that fast. Unless you replace the front wheel ass'y, I wouldn't recommend it.
The author of this post isn't responsible for any injury, disability or dismemberment, death, financial loss, illness, addiction, hereditary disease, or any other undesirable consequence or general misfortune resulting from use of the "information" contai
Thanks again Link,
So that's what the shorted out connector on the contorller is for, a speed controller,
I was wondering.
I also fixed the bad battery,
by popping open the top, and adding distilled water to
a few of the cells that were very low.
It now holds a charge to 12 volts at least overnight.
I dont know how long it will last though.
I thought it better to try and top it off, than recycle it right away.
Update.
The bad battery is still bad,
it doesnt hold a charge very long.
I did mod the G1 to have 2 X 12 volt 7.5Ah batts in it.
Thanks to Link for the suggestion of adding more batts.
I put the controller external with double sided foam tape as Link did,
also had to use a lot of hot glue to create strain releifs for the switch wires,
which were breaking off.
Cut a notch for the hole in the board side to the top edge,
so all the wires from the controller would fit back into the board.
I havent had a chance to test the improved run time yet,
but hope that it is at least double.
I will also attemp the 36 volt upgrade next.
These wheels dont fit, as they are too wide,
and the axle is too short to fit the nut on as well.
They are great wheels though, and could be shaved down to fit,
but that seems like too much work.
I have a T-board and it is great, but not powered.
I am thinking of finding a small hub motor,
and making the T-board powered.
It is a 2 wheeled board, so would be similar to a bike.
So i guess it should be FWD ?
Do you guys know source for the small hub motors ?
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