I just spent a couple of days tracking down what should have been an easy problem to find.
The XM-3000 has two micro switches that tell the controller when either the back brake or front brake is applied. On random occasions my front brake switch was sticking in the closed position - thus overriding the throttle signal and telling the controller not to supply power to the motor.
At the moment my easy fix is to flick the front brake lever fully forward instead of relying solely on the return spring of the front brake.
I suspect if there had been two of us diagnosing the problem we would have found it much sooner - as the rear brake light should also have remained on in this situation. (I'll confirm that)
My reason for not finding this sooner is that it doesn't happen very often and when testing the motor while on the center stand one uses the rear brake to stop the bike! However, when back out on the open road one uses the front brake more often.
Anyway - bottom line is that this can seem like a big deal (oh no, my bike won't go!) - however, it's easy to fix.
BTW - manually returning the brake lever fully open is a "quick fix" - the proper fix will be to make sure the calipers in the front brake aren't binding and can return fully open easily...
John H. Founder of Current Motor Company - opinions on this site belong to me; not to my employer
Remember: " 'lectric for local. diesel for distance" - JTH, Amp Bros || "No Gas.
Is the intermittent problem different from my "lurching" problem ? i think so because i still have light, thus the 12v is alive. but i think i'll hold off shipping my motor&controller. I would hate to send it all the way to Iowa and have xtreme call to say that they work fine.
Yes, I think my switch problem is different from your lurching problem.
To check if it's the switch problem when it lurches and then stops check to see if the rear brake light is lit (the brake light, not the rear running light). If the brake light is lit then you have a similar problem to mine. If it's not lit you have a different issue.
ScooterTech pointed out that it might be a breaker issue - some things to test:
1) Look for loose connections to the breaker terminals.
2) Test that when the breaker is in the ON position that there's electrical continuity between both breaker terminals.
3) Measure the voltage between the cable that runs "through" the breaker and ground and do the measurement on both sides of the breaker. It should be 62 volts or more.
If you want instructions or pictures on how to do this just drop me a line.
John H. Founder of Current Motor Company - opinions on this site belong to me; not to my employer
Remember: " 'lectric for local. diesel for distance" - JTH, Amp Bros || "No Gas.
I don't think the switch problem is not the culprit for the lurching neither.
1) In order to execute ScooterTech's suggestion to check the Hall sensors signals, I had to remove the body cover, which involved removing and re-connecting the circuit breaker, so no loose connection there.
2) & 3) I would have to put the motor/controller back to do this test, but i think the breaker was working properly, because the lurch was absent when the breaker was in the off position, i.e. no power at all. Though i suppose it is possible that breaker may not conducting the full amperage load ?
unfortunately i have to go to southern CA to pick up my son from volleyball camp, i have to put this adventure on ice for the time being.
John.thank you very much for finding the problem !
We will take care of the spring quality inside brake next shipment.
By the way,there is 3 brake switch,another one is foot switch on side stand.
Enjoy your riding...