I bought my Ping batteries probably 5 months ago, and I think there is something wrong with them. When I first got them, I tried them out and got 20miles out of them when I was really pushing it. I just road 10 miles and they died on me. I have them in a Stealth 1000w. The battery pack is the 48v 15ah one. I have no loss in speed, only distance. Anyone shed some light on what might be up? I'm a little worried considering how long they've lasted and how much I paid for them.
Who's online
There are currently 0 users online.
Who's new
- eric01
- Norberto
- sarim
- Edd
- OlaOst
Support V is for Voltage
I assume the Ping pack has a low-voltage cutoff in it's BMS, and by "dying" you mean the low voltage cutoff engaged. If you actually run any cells down to below about 2 volts per cell, sometimes only once, than the cell can be ruined.
You are going to have to check the voltage of the individual cells when charging, fully charged and discharging. You should be seeing about 3.65 to 3.75 volts per cell at end of charging. After charging, they may "settle" to anywhere between 3.4 and 3.6 volts per cell. Discharging under a 15 amp load they should be 3.0 to 3.3 volts per cell, depending on load and state of charge - but all cells should be within 0.1 volt of each other.
I understand that if you remove that duct tape from the Ping packs, they are made up of lots of parallel-connected soft-sided pouch cells with delicate connections. So, maybe you can start by just checking the voltages at the leads to the BMS.
I figured I would have lost some speed with lower voltage. It's acting like it won't put out any amps. If I hammer on it at any time, the amp limiter kicks in. But as it dies, the limiter kicks in with less throttle. Eventually, it just snaps and jerks but doesn't have the power to go anywhere. The pack is charging fine. The green light comes on showing a full charge. Thats another reason I'm confused. With SLAs, I know that they will never take a full charge when they're bad. But lipo is completely different I guess.
I have run them down so much that the 48v cut off on the controller kicked in. I only did that once. I didn't think draining lipo was any issue at all.
I bent my wheel, broke my trans, and blew my motor. Now I cry a lot.
When did Li Ping recomend that battery for 1000 watts? I suspect you have a tad too big a scooter for a 15 ah battery, and though you did not have a lot of cut outs early on, you are still exceeding the c rate of the individual cells. So you may have been running above the sustainable amperage for your battery. If so, then you are not getting the 1000 cycles, but maybe more like 300 or 400. When you open your pack, unless you find a loose wire, you may be findig some weak or dead cells. I belive the rated discharge for a 15ah Ping was 15 amps, so if you are exceeding that a lot, it can damage the cells.
I keep going on and on and on about this, the duct tape batteries need small amp controllers or big ah size to run without damaging them. By my calculations 15 amps x 48 volts gets you 720 watts, so if you have a 20 amp controller, you could be running more than 720 watts when running full speed on flat ground. And way more than that when climbing a hill. Hopefully you will just find a loose wire inside and an easy fix. Good Luck.
Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global
So is this a 36 V 1000 W scooter that you modded to run at 48 V? If so, I wonder what sort of watts you are running now? What would the peak watts be? Did you mod the battery pack?
Deron.
I had never heard of the amps hurting the battery pack. This is depressing to me. My controller is a yk42-4 controller rated from 40-100amps. I'm probably destroying that battery back with that. Should I get the 20ah pack? Would that be okay? Or do I need bigger than that?
The scooter is running the stock motor. It has a yk42-4 controller and a Ping 48v 15ah pack. Those are the only mods I have done to it besides fenders.
This is my controller.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-48V-Controller-YK42-4-for-Electric-Scooter-Parts_W0QQitemZ330255620258QQihZ014QQcategoryZ11332QQssPageNa...
I bent my wheel, broke my trans, and blew my motor. Now I cry a lot.
It was a wire!!!! WHOOOOOOO
edit: Never mind, something else is wrong now. The back is showing 60v at the terminals (3.8 at each cell). But on the output end of the pcb, its showing 53.1 volts. I re-soldered the one wire that was off, I think I may have pulled it off when I was removing the tape. So, now what? Thanks for you help, I really do appreciate it.
I bent my wheel, broke my trans, and blew my motor. Now I cry a lot.
Each cell is showing 3.8, after charging, and resting overnight? Then the cells should be ok, but I'd check again after a good long run, and see if any are lower than the others then. It could be a bms problem, again, possibly related to high amp discharging. Is it consistently only running 10 miles now, or just the one time? Maybe the charger just shut off early one time for some reason. Mine did that once, and now I get normal range again.
Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global
I'll check to make use it's getting the distance again now. It only did it that one time. I did remove the limiter while I was in there. I know that'll cut the life of the batteries. I'll stay easy on it.
I bent my wheel, broke my trans, and blew my motor. Now I cry a lot.
You may have just gotten a light charge for some reason then. In that case, no big deal unless it starts to do it more, and then that may be fixable with a new charger.
Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global