We had a motor failure, so I took it apart to see if I could replace the hall sensors. I found the wires really short and brittle. 2 wires broke off, one right at the body of a hall Sensor. I measured the resistance of the Halls and I do read a difference between 5 of the Hals and a 6th, but not sure if this is accurate. In the past I was told that you can't measure HALL Effect Sensors with a Ohm meter. In any case, I thought if I could just replace all six, It might work. However, after getting it apart this far, I have the knowledge and experience to replace the Halls, but I do not think I can get the wiring back together and tucked back where it is clear of the rotating hub. The wires are so short and brittle that as you work on it, others break.
Inside the motor
Mon, 08/04/2008 - 13:05
#1
Inside the motor
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Support V is for Voltage
Sounds like the insulation on the wires cooked and became brittle. Makes you kinda wish the manufacturer had spent a few more pennies for quality silicon insulation. That stuff's darn near fireproof.
K
Working on a Piaggio Boxer (mo-ped) EV conversion: http://gpsy.com/ev
Everything was pretty well tied down and that white stuff is the extra goop to insulate in addition to the regular insulation. I think the wires themselves are not very strong. No room to work on it after assembly.
Robert Dudley
E-Scoot Tech
I'm curious about what the cost for a motor is if it is not covered under the the warranty. Was the recent motor failure you mentioned covered within the warranty period?
Steve Tanner
Yeah, this looks a lot like my XM-3000 sensor installation, however you have 6 sensors while I only had three.
This is a terrible way to mount these sensors. The leads of these devices need to be mounted onto something and not just soldered with heat shrink over them. It is almost impossible to not break the leads replacing them without some support. Here's how I did mine...
What I ended up doing was cutting small PC boards and mounting the device leads on them and then they had some support and the wires could be soldered separately from the devices. I'll attach a picture for you to see as an example.
Hope this helps, my bike was the XM-3000 from xtreme, Your sensors may be different than mine and I just had to guess based on the marking on my existing devices as to what would work. So far mine's been running great since the sensors were replaced.