Smaller hub motors like the WE can be run on steel suspension forks. Be carefull to keep an eye on the suspension part of the fork staying together, and expect an early wear out. The dropouts are plenty strong. The problem is that most of these steel forks are made by simply pinching a steel tube flat at the end and cutting a drop out in the flat part. This is fine, but the tube won't clear the motor on the hub. I found that the mechanisim for the springs inside the fork are several inches above the dropouts so the tube can be pinched in a vise, into an oval allowing clearance for the motor. Go slow and reposition the fork several times in the vise so you don't create big creases in the tube creating too much metal fatigue. If the vise won't pinch it hard enough, you can grab the steer tube and wiggle it to get going. The last step is to bend straight the tabs on the end of the dropout, so the oversise washers fit better. My first try at this, with a hammer, has gone about 400 miles now with no problems. I will try to post some pix, but right now they are too big.
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I couldn't get the BL 36 onto my old Rock Shox,
and i didnt want to modify the dropouts.
I ended up installing the kit on a older CroMo fork
from a Bridgestone MB2.
The axle fit about 80% into the dropout.
With some bending or filing I could have got 100%,
but I figured it was in far enough.
I will keep an eye on it though and make sure the bolts are tight.
This modification I am talknig about is for steel suspension forks only anyway. Like the ones on box store bikes under $200. Many of the alloy forks also have no clearance between the tubes for a hub motor. Just make sure the washers fit nice and flat on yours. If they are not, they'll bend and short the motor wires, usually also toasting the controller.
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36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global
Good suggestion on the flat fitting washers.
I had to file off some nibs on my forks.
The wheel was coming loose, and almost came off.
Good thing I did my pre ride checks....
With the nibs filed off, now the wheel sits deeper in the fork,
and I can also tighten the nuts more.
Some new information, I do not endorse this technique with high torque motors like BMC or other gearmotors. This idea is just for lower wattage hubmotors running on 36v or less.
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36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global
I just took apart a steel suspension fork, nonfunctional, that I got on a 4 buck bike. Interestingly, the spring and rod inside the fork, resembling the stuff outside an old school motorcycle rear shock, was actually integrated into the dropout. I don't see how the thing could fail on you, since to snap in half the rod inside would have to break in two, under a tension load. If bent it could break eventually, but just on straight pull, I doubt it could happen. I feel safer than ever running this type of fork with a motor. Too bad they don't make em with more travel.
I now have 400 miles on one fork, and 1000 on the other, no problems whatsoever.
Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global