Hi eveyone
i just stumbled on this site when i was looking for a replacement motor for my scooter
now you got me thinking ...........
first off my back ground:
i was heavy into r/c cars when i was younger and even made it to the Candian Nationals
i got started to get tired of the small cars and started modifing bigger cars even before i had a drivers licence
now i work at a speed and custom shop moifing cars for a living
now for the big question ..................
i have a Maxx Hog scooter with a fried motor
it comes stock with :
motor model #my1018
24v 2500 rpm 16.5 amp 300watt
jx motor co. ltd.
while trying to find parts i ran into this site http://www.electricscooterparts.com/index.html
ive been thinking about going to 36 volts
so far i think im going to need the following parts :
36 volt controler
36v 3000 rpm 1000watt motor
3x 12v 28amp batt.
36 volt charger
custom motor and batt mounts
do i need to upgrade the controler when i up the volts or motor watt's ?
do you think it will give me good performance for the $$$$$ as the stock motor is $45 and the 36v set up will cost around $245 + 3x 12/28 batt's as im running 12/12 batt's and i dont think ill have enough run time
lmk what you think or lmk of some good sites i can get the parts from .... or should i go higher in volts ? ( go big or go home )
i want to start the project soon and will let you know how it goes
thanks P.
I have a razor, 250 watt 24 volt chopper. I added another 12 volt 7ah battery to the otherwise 100% stock system and am really happy with the performance increase. I weigh 195 lbs. With brand new batteries set up at the original 24 volt configuration the top speed was ok, poor acceleration and horrible distance to a charge. Now at 36 volts the speed is increased quite noticeably, torque improved and the distance is alot better but still quite poor for anything but the shortest trips. Ok so that being said, depending on your weight, I think a 36 volt system with the greatest AH you can afford on a stock system/controller/motor will make your ride quite useful, with respectable performance. Thus allowing you to enjoy it while you save for the motor and controller if you even still want it. You should be able to find a stock replacement motor used dirt cheap. I am a newbie too.:) welcome.
Go to tncscooters.com, they have the cheapest stuff on the web.
Update: Gps speed with a 160 lbs rider on the 36 volt 250 watt motor is 19.7 mph. In case you wanna try my setup.
Your BOM looks good except 28Ah SLA batteries are *heavy*. You'll lose most of your 36 volt gains in lugging all that lead around. I'd stick with 17-18Ah batteries, max. They're a good performance/weight compromise.
Note that SLA only tends to give 50% of its rated capacity at the rates we drain them. So a 17 Ah rated battery gives around 8 Ah of real capacity, in my experience.
If you really want more than 10 Ah of real capacity at a reasonable weight, think about going NiMH or Lithium.
Karen
Working on a Piaggio Boxer (mo-ped) EV conversion: http://gpsy.com/ev
thanks guys for your input
i thought i would try a couple of things before winter hit so i orded a 36v controler/36v 350w motor
first try the motor at 24v with the stock set up
if i domt like that i will step up to 36v and the other controler
while im at it i will install a cooling system for the motor and controler
while im wating im going to replace the rear drum brake with a disk brake setup i found at a bike shop and will post picts when i have them
i would like to get away from the big batts but i dont think the NiMH r/c batt would have the run time i need
when i was racing them i would only get 5 min of run time out of 7,2v at 2800mah
would i have to put 4 sets for batt in pallale to get the 12ahr run time ?
and Karen go to the hobby shop and ask them for lose cells they are alot cheaper than packs and you can make them any size and shape for packs ... all you have to do is solder them together ... the hobby shop has the tabs .... or you can use small ground straping ... you just have to watch how much heat you add to the cell when you solder them ... use a 75w+ solder iron ( not a gun )
()_()
(o.0)
(> <) .... never trust a bunny !!!
For a given watt draw, you'll need a specific AH capacity in the pack.
If you are running SLA batteries, Mr. Peukert's curse will bite you as was said, and a 17AH (20 hour rate) nominal pack will only give you 8AH drained at a .5 hour rate (SWAG numbers). Getting a large AH pack of MiMH will bite in a different way, the wallet. Even the biggest Lion or NiMH packs use massive paralleling as well as fairly sophisticated battery management to keep everybody playing together.
Any way you go, you'll be building something no one else has, with the fun of thinking through the systems, and the goal of having the satisfaction of a smooth operating machine that never existed before. Keep us updated!
mark
update :
picts of my disk brake set up
first i removed the drum brake from the bike and the wheel
to my surprise the inner drum was a press fit onto the rim .... so i found a large washer that would fit and welded the washer to the inner drum ( black disk behind the rotor )
after i centered the disk brake on the washer i drilled and taped the holes for the supplyed bolts
i mounted the rim on the bike and found out where the callaper needed to be
found some alum. plate and cut it to fit
after ajusting the calaper up/down and side to side i found i needed a longer cable so back to the bike shop
after conecting the cable and some ajusting the brakes now will almost put you over the bars
:-)
they are AVID 160mm rear disk set from a local bike shop
now for the tear down of the bike for a new 36v 350w motor / controller and 3x12v20amp/h batts
after removing the controler i forund that the motor plug was melted so the next motor will be hard wired
()_()
(o.0)
(> <) .... never trust a bunny !!!
well i pulled the motor apart to see what failed
the rotor was burnt from over heating
even the case and magnets showed heat stress
2 of the 4 brushes where stuck (melted to the board )
so im going to add alot of cooling to help the motor life
i took the 4x12v 20ahr batts and found the best way to mount them is flat
im going to build a batt box that will sit below the side steps
its going to be 14.5x15x3.5
i had a look at the frame to find out i have to strech the frame over 2" to fit the batts :-(
()_()
(o.0)
(> <) .... never trust a bunny !!!
If you really want to upgrade your scooter, then I would replace the SLA battery with a LIPO pack, or LiFePo4.
A 36v20Ah pack from Ping will give you the best preformance upgrade. You can get it off e-bay, or email him directly.
I would also put in a 36v750W motor, or run a 24v500W motor off 36v.
update :
go big or go home
well i cut off the kick stand and the old batt box and got the bike ready for the 4x12v 20ah batts
after that i built a batt box out of 16g steel and reinforced the coners
i found i could got the box under the frame and wouldnt have to cut it up as im trying to make it look stock
after the welding i found the best location for the batt box tabs
the box is a little big but shouldnt be a problem
oh and the front tire has a 1/2" of clearance from the batt box but dosent look like it from the picts
()_()
(o.0)
(> <) .... never trust a bunny !!!
One thought is that a wider battery box like this is going to scrape on the ground when you do bank for turns.
- David Herron, The Long Tail Pipe, davidherron.com, 7gen.com, What is Reiki
Or go up/down a driveway, or hit a pothole, or drive over a pebble!
Seems like an awfully small amount of ground clearance too... hard to tell from the shots.
one thing i didnt think about ... i will be putting a seat on and do a test ride to find out
it is as hight as the little gas scooter we had in the shop it didnt have a lot of ground clearnce but moved along at 25kph
()_()
(o.0)
(> <) .... never trust a bunny !!!
i found out today that it has lots of ground clearance
i hope the motor will be here soon
()_()
(o.0)
(> <) .... never trust a bunny !!!
http://www.gobrushless.com/shop/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=MD2505-4800
http://www.bavaria-direct.co.za/models/links.htm
check those 2 sites out and links good ideas though for model airplanes am wondering if the motors might adapt to a small scooter??? I like the windings on the Microdan 2505,going upwards instead of around the top area only.... kinda tesla looking coil windings... they might be onto something there???
http://www.bavaria-direct.co.za/models/faq.htm#Tips