Just got my brand new BL36 and found it does not have the hall sensors anymore. The connector is still mentioned in the manual but there are only 3 wires coming from the motor and no 5-pin cable on the controller. Instead there is a funky small PCB sitting loosely wired and wrapped with double sided mounting tape inside the controller box. I suppose that emulates what the hall sensors are normally doing. But wow, what poor assembly quality....first thing I did was applying generous blobs of blue silicone (the acid free one) to all loose and vibration-prone components.
As for the missing hall sensors....is that a new thing with the BL36? And is that good or bad? I mean it is easier to wire and more reliable but how does the motor actually get moving without knowing the magnet position? Does it need pedal help?
Another thing: Did somebody tweak the 36V charger to output 48V? I opened it and could see that it would need higher voltage output caps but otherwise it should be pretty straightforward. But before I go and trace back the schematic I am wondering if somebody did that already. I am planning to use 4 individual 12V chargers at home but the box that came with the kit would be convenient for a quick fill-up on the road.
Thanks guys!
GB
Good question.I too share your concerns about the under-engineering of some of these components.
Sensorsless controllers work by trying combinations of starting positions, and from the back EMF estimate the stator location. Thats why they can start off slightly jerky.
Where did un buy ur new BL36 controller from, I need one!
There are some good deals on sensorless controllers at campsolutions. Also berenson ev has a good deal on an older style bl36 controller. Ebikes ca has good crystalite controllers that will work with a new throttle and new connectors on the motor wire. Bl36 went sensorless last year. I haven't seen inside one of those, 2008 controllers, but that sounds pretty wierd to me. I have a new 2009 aotema kit, and the controller is real nice inside, all potted so vibrations shouldn't affect it. I got that kit from hightekbikes.com That 2009 kit may have different windings because it is similar in speed to the old brushed motor.
Sensorless, also known as pedalfirst is the way to go I think. All mine needs is to roll an inch forward just before I hit throttle to start real nice. Some vibration at low speed but the vibrations are harmless. You soon get the habit of just pushing the bike forward as you start out. Some people talk about riding to 10 mph before starting the motor, and it is more efficient for sure, but hardly required.
Soneil chargers can often be tweaked to a higher voltage by adjusting a pot inside. But not a full 12 volts. They can be tweaked up a couple volts to use with lifepo4 battery packs.
Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global
I bought a kit in january for my old Stinger that died after 3 months at 36 volts.
My new kit came from CampSolution.com there is someone here who reminded me that it is solution not solutions
anyway it works on the old rear wheel designed for sensors too!
I simply hooked it up there in the old five wire threewire Ananda hub with 48 volts and drove for about two miles.
I had no power to the rear wheel after a hot day and a wire melt down on the halls.
foget those halls it may seem a little funny as you pull out at first because it wont be a smooth but heck the ease and security of the newer kit and wheels are good and also cheap my kit Listed for $239.00 without the Sla's or charger.
the controller kit and throttles are available in 48 or 36 and work on any brushless hub at $49.95
Double your pleasure, double your fun, with double the voltage