over power a hub motor...

Depends on the motor.

Usually motors can be overvolted to some degree. But there's a risk of burning out part of the motor. Especially if the voltage goes too high.

if its a brushed motor you are limited by what the commutator can do.

if its a brushless, and you use a digital controller, with a motor side continuous current limit the same as or below motor rating, you wont run into any heat problems.

Matt

You could burn up the motor (quite possible), destroy the controller (maybe), start a fire (less likely), ...

But, you never know for sure until you try it. Can you get somebody to tape the event?

We all enjoy a good chuckle, and you might make enough on a "funny-video" show to buy components that actually are designed to work together.

Please be careful.

Depends on the motor. I killed a heinzmann 24v in a few minuites that way. What motor is it? Sometimes it is the same motor that can take 48v or more, but they just make it legal to ride in Australia or somewhere by giving it a weak 24 v controller. Sometimes a motor like that will have smaller wires to the hub that might melt if really overpowered, but not likely at 36v. I'd say if it is a regular direct drive hubmotor it should be doable. If it is a gearmotor, then you need to be more carefull about the amperage of the controller. When I melted my heinzmann, I was running it on a 36v 35 amp controller instead of a 24v 20 amp. So designed for 480 watts, I was only putting 1260 through it! heh heh. Anyway, my point is the gearmotors, using a smaller motor and gears to get the power to the wheel, can be less tolerant of ovevolting. Direct drive motors tend to be able to run at a wide range of voltages. many dd motors can run 48v with no problems at all.

you can buy controllers from
www.kellycontroller.com

they also sell replacement hub motors (i think their biggest is 72v 6kw continuous).

running a motor at a higher voltage does allow you to push the motor to make considerably more peak power.
it also increases continuous power, by achieving the same torque at higher speed.

at higher speeds you do unfortunately need more force to overcome air resistance.
so you almost always need more motor side amps to increase top speed.
as long as you keep motor side amps below rated, you wont run into any thermal issues.

so a 48v 1500w motor becomes a 60v 1870w motor (at 1.25x the speed) or a 72v 2250w motor (at 1.5x the speed).
these are all continuous ratings.

if at 1.25x the speed, 1.25x the continuous motor rating isn't enough, then you will run into thermal problems.
so it depends how oversized your motor is to start with.

Matt

e z glide is a new one for me. There is an eezee motor that is geared, and can take up to 48v. Generally a geared motor makes a lot more noise than a direct drive. Direct drive hubs may grunt a bit at low speeds but once up to full speed are pretty much silent. If the motor is geared, then the requirements for controllers get a bit technical due to the faster rpm of gearmotors. Direct drive motors use a more swappable controller. Ebay has a lot of controller options. One way to take some of the sting out of matiching up the wires is to go with a sensorless controller, which won't need the hall sensors in your motor to work right. Hightekbikes.com and ebikes-ca are good sources for a 36v-48v sensorless controller.

if its BLDC, then you will have 3 thick wires (one for each phase).
you may also have 6 thinner wires (two to power the hall sensors, 3 for the hall sensor output, and one for the thermsistor).

as long as you stay at 10A, you should be fine. you got that part correct :)

Matt

im not familiar with your specific controller.
it depends what the Fets on the powerstage are rated to.
without pulling it apart, and reading the part number you wont know.
perhaps someone else can tell you the limit of your controller?

Matt

If the capacitors inside the controller, (they look like little cans) are rated high enough, it is very likely that the controller can take more voltage, at least for awhile anyway. A 24v sla battery pack will actually put out 28v when fully charged, so look for about 40v or more on the lables on the capacitors. If the capacitors say 50v or more on them, then the controller has a good chance of being ok for 36v, which is actually 44v at full charge.

Chances are very good that the motor can handle 36v at 500 watts just fine. Direct drive motors tend to be made work at a wide range of voltages, typically from 24v to 48v. Figuring out the wiring sequence with 7 wires all mixed up can be pretty hard to do, so overvolting the controller you have will be very tempting to do. If the motor is going on a bicycle, then a pedal first, or sensorless controller will be much easier to figure out the wiring for, since it will only have the three power wires.