Kelly controls throttle response much smoother

It's a KEB 72601. I would say the acceleration is about the same. It's programmable so you can probably make it more peppy. I used the software today to progeam it to do regen through the throttle like someone else here posted. It worked for me. I turned the regen up as far as it go using throttle mode, which is 20 percent. At first I thoiught it would be hard to glide but it just takes a little practice. It's great to know when you let off the (gas?) you're getting something back. I also hooked up a thumb throttle to use as variable regen bake that can go up to 100 percent but couldn't get it to work. I'm going to start another post because this is the second time I've had to type this.

I had a about a whole page of other info and it just disapeared. I'm not typing it again. It's all in the manual anyway. But I like it and you can custom program it to you're specific setup to make it the most efficient. The high and low voltage cutoff is easily programable. It has a high motor temp lead which can double as a brake/motor cuttoff switch. I hooked mine up that way but then changed it because it causes the regn to turn off if you squeeze the brake. So I'm just running it with no brake motor/cutoff. Gary you might like that for the hill starts but I think lennys' technique works best. What a day I'm Tarred I thank I'll go home now.

Forest Gump-

Hi, Thanks Matt! I had the throttle brake working yesterday. It woked fine you can adjust it from 0-20 percent. 20% feels about like the average pull as you slow for a stoplight. The cool thing is today I figured out the problem I was having with the variable pot based regen. You get a 0~5v pot (thumb throttle) it has three wires. The red goes to the 5v feed that comes out of the controller.(it's labled 5v) The black goes to the ground. the white goes to the brake/an (an for analog)that comes out of the controller. I mounted the thumbbrake to the left rearview mirror post. It's like a trigger. You can still keep three fingers on the brake handle and your middle finger on the triggerbrake.
The reason it didn't work the first time was you have to activate the brake switch in the controller by grounding the brake/switch lead that come out of controller. Thees are all in one group of three they are. BRK/AN,BRK/SW and reverse. I riged a temp switch to ground the BRK/SW while riding to test the thumbbrake...bingo! it worked! so I went back scratching my head wonder ing a few things.

First I thought, why can't it be programmed to just start the regen when the brk/an senses voltage from the pot. Because now I have to rig up a push switch to ground the brk/sw.(from conroller) I chose the left horn button. I took it apart to see how it was wired. I tried to make sure that the turn sigs and high/low beam wouldn't be effected if I cut the 12v going to the horn button.I cut that 12v in and put a butt splice on so it can't short to anything or I want a 12v power supply later. Then I made it a ground/button by attaching one end to the ground on the horn and the other end to the brk/sw on the controller. So now I have to press the horn button with my thumb (to ground the brk/sw in the cont) and then work the trigger with my finger. It might sound weird but it but it feels pretty natural actually. It works great it's smooth and as you said very strong at 100% maybe stronger than the disc. I think I will use the stock brakes very little now. Man I'm excited this has been really fun I've really been wanting to do this. I'm going to ask if they can make the controllers so that brk/sw works by sensing 12v instead of grounding it. It could work off all existing brake switches then. I'm sure it will still have to be grounded to work but maybe that could be done internally?

PS I still have problems to work out apparently the horn wires were hooked in with something else. Now when I sqweeze my left break the lights dim and I blow fuses. When I pull the right brake the brakelight doesn't work but the lights don't dim. Oh, and the right horn button doesn't work. I think I know what it is but I'm to tired to think right now. If anyone knows how all that stuff is wired my brain could use a rest.

Almost forgot,I have about 1000km on 28cells 54mph and over 3000km on 24cells 48mph but you need relativly flat terrain to get away with this. The guy from kelly thinks I'm crazy. heh heh

VERY IMPORTANT KELLY CONTROLLER WILL NOT LET YOU OVERVOLT THE CONTROLLER. On mine if the batteries are putting out over 90v the controller will not work. You would have to leave your lights on awhile or something till the voltage comes down. On the bright side it won't allow regen to overcharge batteries on long hills.

Thats weird I tried that too. Wouldn't that just send 12v to the brk/sw lead. I couldn't get it to work that way. For throttle regen you dont activate the brk/sw, thats your problem. Try disconnecting that. In the menu disable regen 1 and brk/sw regen. Then turn up throttle regen to 20%,all the way up. The way your doing it the the brk/an is seeing over 5v right away and just going to 100% regen...(I think). I'll take a picture of how I mounted the finger brake today.

I just remembered that when I swithed to an LED brake light I had to switch the wires on the fixture. The 12v was hooked to the spring and the ground to the brk light. The incandecent bulbs worked that way but not the LEDs so I swapped the wires. This gets confusing for a rookie like me. This morning I realized that not only do I have the problems I mentioned above (because I'm shorting the 12v to the grnd when I use the left horn because it is apparently hooked to the other horn button in the harness or somewhere) but I won't have a brake light when using regen braking this way. I think I need to use the brake handle switches as my ground to activate the regen brk/sw. But how? Any ideas out there?

Updated -A simple auto relay switch was all I needed (duh). Explanation on activating regen thread - Bill