Hi all - I am seriously considering to get a Vectrix for a good price while they last, but (for understandable reasons) I am a bit scared in regard to potentially unfixable technical issues I might be having in the future, and how to prevent these and/or deal with them when they happen. So I would like to compile a "Vectrix pre-purchase checklist" to make sure I don't make a stupid purchase that I will regret. This check list would begin something like this:
- Top speed at least 60mph & range at least 30 miles (how do I best check the range, just ride it willy nilly around until I run out of juice or is there a better test)?
- Batteries OK (how to check this)?
- Latest, best components (gear box, firmware, batteries, controller - what is the latest greatest here?)
- Mechanical/electrical issues (which ones to watch for - wobble, throttle issues, fuse etc.)?
- Recalls properly taken care of (which ones)?
- Warranty - if I can get the dealer to guarantee anything, what should that be at the very least?
- 2007, 2008, 2009? Any real difference except design?
- Registration, stimulus, government refund issues (I am in CA)?
- Anything in the category of "must check this before you buy"?
So I was wondering if you experienced Vectrix owners could add your two cents to this check list on what you think I should pay attention to before I buy.
Thanks so much guys!!!
Markus
If you're buying new, your dealer will have already checked the bike out, and it will already have the latest software download onboard. Check all the lights, take it for as much of a test ride as he'll allow, and take it home.
If you're buying used, insist on a two day test with the owner holding the bike, or a two day buy-back agreement to insure that all systems are fine. In addition to the lights check, turn the ignition switch on, flip off the "run" switch on the right handlebar, then pull the left brake. If the left display shows battery temp and voltage, and the speedo sticks at around 43mph, then the bike has had at least one or two software upgrades and should be good to go.
Now, take the fully charged bike on a 25 mile loop, testing the brakes, the regen (reverse throttle) braking, and the reverse gear feature. It should have bars left at the end of your run, but don't expect more than one or two (and don't expect to actually GET 30 miles, as that is all dependant on your terrian and driving habits). When you return, allow the bike to cool for a couple of hours, then come back and plug it in, and make sure the displays kick on, the fans spin up, and she starts charging. Then come back the next morning, unplug it, turn on the ignition switch and make sure the "fuel" display on the right is showing all bars. Again, flip off the run switch and pull the left brake. You should be showing around 143 volts. Take her out for another spin around the same loop just to make sure she doesn't behave any differently than the day before, then load her up on the truck and take her home. She's good to go!
If she gives you two years then blows up, she will have cost you less than the depreciation on many automobiles for the same period of time, plus you weren't buying gas and were having more fun!
- Top speed at least 60mph - Top speed is 100km (62mph). It will feel just like having a governer on it.
- Batteries OK (how to check this)- If they charge fully overnight and run the bike 25 miles or more, they are ok.
- Latest, best components (gear box, firmware, batteries, controller - what is the latest greatest here?)- If it's working, its working. All the bikes are created using the same components.
- Mechanical/electrical issues (which ones to watch for - wobble, throttle issues, fuse etc.)? Can't check a fuse. It's either working or it's deader than a doornail. Don't touch the throttle while the bike is booting up. If you do, it may calibrate it wrong and act funny until the next time it boots up.
- Recalls properly taken care of (which ones)? - There was a battery recall early in 2008. No way to know if yours got fixed unless you can verify that it was taken back if it was purchased in 07 or early 08.
- Warranty - if I can get the dealer to guarantee anything, what should that be at the very least? - New bikes come with a 2 year warranty. That's assuming there is a company left to provide parts and assistance for that long. Your dealer can't guarantee what he can't control.
- 2007, 2008, 2009? Any real difference except design? - Paint.
- Registration, stimulus, government refund issues (I am in CA)? - shouldn't be any problem with registration, since they've been sold in CA since they hit the US. If you're buying new, you may want to look into the stimulus bill.
- Anything in the category of "must check this before you buy"? - Not really. At least none that wouldn't be obvious on a test ride.
Along with the items mentioned above, make sure the tires are inflated to the proper pressure. Mine were overinflated quite a bit--maybe for transport. Check for rattles in the front fairing area as several people have reported loose hardware in the fairing mount. Listen to the gearbox. It will make noise, however the sound should be a uniform whine, not a "whoop, whoop, whoop" sound as you are driving. Check the noise in acceleration, at cruise (at different speeds) and during regen braking. After you test drive, plug in the charger, make sure the fans are working and the speedometer needle (which shows charge rate) is steady. I am sure you will enjoy your new Vectrix provided you know the limitations of the scooter before you put your money down. Try to drive the distance and profile (speeds, stops, hills, etc.) in your normal commute. Make sure you still have some reserve charge at the end as the range won't get much better then it is when new.
This is a complex issue depending on circumstances.
If you found a Vectrix that has been standing unused for a while, you could cause the damage which you are trying to rule out, by following the testing described above.
A sign of battery damage is the "Disappearing bars syndrome", or "BALPOR" with multiple bars out of 17 disappearing suddenly at the end of a ride. If this is followed by a recharge ending in voltage rise to the maximum allowed (149V to 152V, temperature dependent), with concurrent battery temp rise, and before 16/17th are reached on the charge indicator, then there are low capacity cells in the battery.
If the battery in unbalanced due to infrequent use, then testing it rigorously can damage it.
This information may be used entirely at your own risk.
There is always a way if there is no other way!
Mik's correct about stressing a new bike that hasn't had the cells conditioned and equalized by several charge and discharge cycles. Slipped my squid brain. However, the speeds and distance you mentioned you wanted to go are near the limit of the Vectrix. The dealer should have a demo bike---test your commute on that one--and break your bike in properly
Thanks so much for the info, guys! So if a bike has been sitting around for a while (like a 2007 model probably would have in a dealership), how to go about safely bringing it back to its full potential? Is this kind of conditioning/equalizing something that the dealer can do, or does the Vectrix have a mode that does this automatically, or will someone have to "gently" ride it around a couple of times?
XM-2000, Voloci, custom electric bicycle
[url=http://www.wikipik.org/vc16]WikiPik[/url]
Perhaps I should have elaborated a bit more on my first sentence. If you are buying from a dealer, he already knows how to keep the bike fresh and ready for a sale. However, if it has only been condition charged, and not actually ridden, then you should prgressively stretch your range on the bike, recharging each time you ride.
For example, the first time you ride the bike, ride it maybe 5 or 10 miles easy riding. Then charge it overnight. Next day, stretch it out to 15 or 20, and so on until you are up to whatever your daily needs for the bike are, and after that, do a deep discharge ride, and she'll be a happy camper.
Any bike that has been sitting for months should be reconditioned this way. If you're looking at a used bike, just make sure you know how often the bike has been riden and how long it was last ridden, and make your judgement call on that. Anyone in their right mind would have a for-sale bike already in top shape for maximum range before putting it on the block, but I suppose there will be cases out there where someone dies and a widow has no clue how to maintain or ride the thing.
Disappearing bars at the end of the range is not an absolute indication that the battery is bad. More often it's an indication that the computer is out of sync with the battery, and a couple of deep discharge rides will sync it all back up again (newer software. This didn't seem to work well on the early software).
Just make sure you fully understand what a "deep" discharge is, and don't force the bike to run until you have to push it!