NEM0 - Electric Dual Sport Motorcycle

Good deal of progress on the motor-mount plates.

I've also done some work on the rear swing arm, but those pictures will be up tomorrow.

Knockouts in the rear swing arm changed.

And the motor-mount is finished




The finished bike is going to be very skinny.

The handlebars need some welds finished.

It's polycarbonate, which is almost as strong as aluminum but much easier to machine.

polycarbonate = Lexan
Lexan is just the GE trademark name for the polycarbonate sheets they make. Other brans such as Tuffak, Rhinex, Hyzod, and others are also Polycarbonate.

Made some progress on the console that will hold the two gauges, the top of the headlight, and the front turn signals. The bottom of the headlight will attach to the front fender and will have adjustable mounts for the high-power led high beams.


It will be dyed black once it's finished. It will bolt onto the triple-tree where the handlebar riser used to go.

Freewheel adapter is done.

Preparing to drill and cut the rear sprocket, which is a really small 35t since I don't need much of a reduction from the chain axle to rear wheel.

Measuring first stage for chain length.

Getting ready to cut the center out of the rear sprocket so it can be bolted to the rear hub.

Cut the center of the sprocket out using the lathe.

And now I need to make axle spacers.

Finished making the axle spacers for the rear wheel.

Also made final revisions to the motor mount and chain transmission. All that's left to add is chain and tensioners.

Big day! The chain drive is together, but I do still need to make a tensioner for the underside of the rear chain.


And the replacement front wheel arrived. Switching out the tire was easy. I also finished the handlebars.


There are a few tabs I need to add to the battery rack.
Close-up of the start of the gauge console, and the custom handlebars.


Turn signal parts are done.

I won't have a regen brake under the current configuration.
If I wanted regen braking I would have to have a clutch on the idler and a different controller. Or an added hub motor that's used for braking.
At such a low motor and battery pack rating, regen braking won't add more to my range than a freewheel does.

I will be able to start wiring and testing soon.

Another big day! First off, installed the front brake.

Did the first bench-testing of the batteries, motor, and controller. All working fine.

Put the chain transmission back together and tested it. Then used the jack to put the power block into the frame.

And the drive system is together for the first time!

Now I'm starting on the wiring. Which could take a couple days, but I do have a pretty detailed plan to work from.

Just some intermediate tedium today. Mounted the controller under the seat. And made the under-tank bucket for holding all of the electrical components.

Have to cut out a hole for mounting the 5V DC-DC converter, and make a plate to hold the 12V DC-DC converter.

Then I get to start running wires.

Well, I lost Wednesday and Thursday due to some bad weather messing with my arthritis. I only had half a day today to work on a few tedious things.

I made a plate to hold the magnet for the speedometer sensor. Then mounted the sensor on the rear fork.

I finished most of the wiring. But I forgot to connect the 12V DC-DC converter ON/OFF to Vin- so it fried once it received input voltage.

I jacked the rear wheel off of the ground and hooked up a power supply in place of the DC converter. I then ran a speed test of the rear wheel.

First test the speedometer was reporting 41.5MPH at full throttle. :o
I'll have to do more testing on Monday after I can confirm that the speedometer has an accurate wheel circumference. And once I get a replacement 12v DC-DC converter and I can do some ride testing.

The freewheel mechanism and chain transmission works great. I do need to add a tensioner to the rear wheel chain though.
More developments as they happen and I'll explain the electrical setup better once I have it finished.

Remade the left side motor-mount plate out of aluminum.

Front turn signals and headlight are mostly done.


Still working on the rear chain tensioner and general wiring.

Had to rewire some of the electrical system on Friday in order to replace the two DC converters with a single triple output model. This was done to reduce the current load on the ignition keyswitch, and reduce cable clutter.

Voltmeter installed.

Charger installed in the tank shell. I extended its indicator lights so that they backlight the plug receptacle in the tank bung.

Currently waiting on some small parts to arrive in the mail.

Good News: Electrical system is pretty much done and this DC converter works.
Bad News: Was having some chain tension issues, mostly caused by the bushing that was mounted to one of the polycarbonate plates. I relocated it to an aluminum side plate, and will need to cut a longer axle.

I should be able to go for a test ride tomorrow.

The 30amp drive and 5amp ignition fuse holders are located on the tank underneath the seat.

Rear chain tensioner.

I just need to go find an extension spring for it at the hardware store.

Good News: Motor outputs a good amount of torque

Bad News: It outputs enough torque to sheer set screws.

I'm going to have to make a new freewheel thread adapter out of steel so that I can weld it onto the chain axle. The aluminum one is pretty much destroyed.

Brake light and turn signal LED array is together and works.

However it's way too bright, so I will need to add a diffusor to it.


Test assembly of the front fender/headlight/gauge console parts.

All of these parts will be dyed black soon.

More on these later.

Some progress on the gauge console and running light.





High beam is a Vision X Solstice LED which outputs 800 lumens at only 10 watts.
It was a little pricey, but I couldn't match its efficiency or output by making my own array.
Have to add a running light diffusor, remake the turn signals, and add a minimal fender.

Diffusors made a big difference. Brake light LEDs are still VERY bright, but no longer eye-piercingly so.


Attached a ring magnet to the top of the gas cap,

So that I can set it on the frame when the bike is charging.


Remade the parts for the front turn signals, which will be getting orange LEDs once they arrive.

Thank you for the compliments. Means a lot considering this is my first attempt at both an EV conversion and a motorcycle build.

I am wondering why you have such an obtrusive light bar up front though. What that just a design choice you made or are you trying to meet some visibility restriction I don't know about

Stylistic choice. I wanted to have the running light also act as the front fender. Drawing some inspiration from the "duck bill" on the BMW F800GS.

I haven't finished the fender part of the headlight yet.
I won't be adding any fairings to the finished bike.

I'm changing the chain transmission axle to a 5/8" OD keyed shaft, so I had to change out the bearings. I'm waiting for a replacement freewheel adapter to come in the mail.

All of the wiring is finished, as are the turn signals.

Front fender is almost done.


Rear mud guard

More progress and the first rolling tests.
Here's what the "gas tank" looks like when it's charging.

I think I like the fender more this way.

I tested outside at low speeds. It's currently blowing the 30amp drive fuse under normal accelerations. So I'm going to replace it with an 80VDC 50amp circuit breaker.

Success today.

Installed an 80VDC 50AMP circuit breaker to replace the 30amp fuse holder.

I then went for a test ride and managed to get up to 29mph. However the motor got pretty toasty so I'll need to add active cooling.