Paying for Warranty Parts

I received the R-20 when they had the waiting list a couple years ago and they had it then, so I wouldn't be surprised if they have also had this policy.

If you unplug the connector that goes to the little temperature switch that is siliconed to the top of the controller and connect the two wires together the fans will run whenever the key is on. However, have you ever felt the amount of air that those fans produce? It's barely a breath of air. I was thinking instead of two small fans, use one 6" fan on top of the controller blowing directly down at the cooling fins. One larger fan may use the same power as the two small ones and would cool way better. The small fans would work ok if there were some type of shroud around the controller to keep the air flowing over the cooling fins. The only problem there is if the fans ever quit the controller would quickly overheat. www.mpja.com has many different size fans at good prices if you're interested in a larger fan. The Ohm Depot

I would not recommend bypassing the temperature switch by unpluging the sensor and jumping the wires together. The problems is that the fans are tied directly into the battery pack and will run all the time - even when the ignition switch is off. I think EVTA did this so that the fans would continue to run after the bike was switched off if the controller was still too hot. I did bypass the sensor as noted, but got power from something AFTER the ignition switch so that it would only run when the key was turned on. If you're willing to turn off the breaker every time you turn off the bike, then bypassing the sensor would probably work.

BTW - I just had to replace my DC/DC converter and EVTA sent me a new one (the upgraded "Z30" version), and charged me $12 or so for the shipping, but nothing for the part.

Thanks for catching me on that one aster. I actually do shut my breaker off every time I shut the key off so I guess that's why I never noticed it before. However since the fans are 12v not 60 volt that must mean the dc-dc converter along with the controller is hot all the time the breaker is on? I never investigated it but it would almost have to be. How did the new evt converter look to you as far as quality? I hope better than the original. I want to get one to have as a spare so I don't have to wait 6 months for Andy to send me one if mine goes bad but I really want a quality part...even if I have to get one of those larger ones that Kelly sells. The Ohm Depot

Yes, the DC/DC converter is hot all the time the breaker is on. I should have said that the fan is connected directly to the output of the DC/DC converter (instead of the battery). EVTA claims the new DC/DC converter is better and has a higher capacity. I have no way to judge the quality except for aesthetics, which was about the same (or maybe slightly worse). It took EVTA about one month to get me the converter after I requested it.

The failure mode on my old converter was interesting. I lost power when going over a bump - like the impact broke some kind of internal connection. Power would come back after the bike settled again after the bump. A couple of weeks later, it would work sometimes, then cut out completely for no apparent reason. The new DC/DC converter seems to work fine.