I have a Schwinn S760 36v 6 wire controller scooter that I need to know the wiring diagram for the controller. The scooter was given to me and the controller was bad, so I ordered a new one. The one I ordered was from a different company and has different connectors on it. I plan on switching the wires from my new controller into the connector from the old controller so the pulgs still match. I just need a wiring diagram from the old controller. I have one for the new controller. This is my first electric scooter and I am excited about getting it running. I am planning on changing the batteries to 17ah and building my own cover for them. I have done lots of reading on this sight and learned so much over the past few weeks. I am not looking to go faster, just being able to ride it a little further. Thank you in advance for the wiring diagram and or/ description of what each wire color goes too.
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The controller I bought is for a hall type throttle I am going to take a wild guess that this is the wrong type of controller.
If you goto this page http://www.electricscooterparts.com/speedcontrollers.html and scroll down too CT-660B9 36V 1000W Electric Scooter Speed Controller which is the controller I bought, then goto http://www.electricscooterparts.com/throttles.html and scroll down too Hall-Effect Half Twist Throttle With 36V LED Meter will that work for me with the controller? I already have the controller.
The stock controller has a 6-pin connector to the throttle assembly. Unfortunately, it will not match the 6-pin connector on your new controller either in form or function.
Here's a pic of the six wires coming from the stock throttle:
The red, black, and blue should connect to the red, black, and green on your new controller. The remaining three wires on the throttle are for the "diagnostic" LED's which will not be supported by your new controller. If you replace your throttle, you will need only a three-wire. And, yes, the stock throttle, stock controller, and your new controller, are all for hall-effect throttles. (Lightly rub a small paper clip over the body of the throttle around the LED's. You will find the magnets in the Hall...)
Two of the other three pins on your new controller's 6-pin plug are for the brake lever switch. You should have a separate two-pin connector that runs to a brake lever. Those 2 wires should connect with the 2 brake pins on the new controller's 6-pin. The scooter should still work without this connected.
The function of the "speed indicator" is unknown to me. Maybe someone with experience with this controller can explain that.
The only other "tricky" one may be the "Lock". This is intended for a key switch. When you turn the switch on, it completes the circuit and enables the controller. You need to either connect this to a separate switch, or make a jumper plug, or just cut the connector off and twist the wires together (add a wire-nut at minimum).
The rest of the wires in the new controller can remain unused.
Adding 17Ah batteries should help increase your range. My Stealth has identical battery space. I replaced the (3) 10Ah batteries with (2) 17Ah in the battery compartment (need to trim some plactic support posts on the bottom side of the deck, but then it will fit normally including the hold-down bolt). The third 17Ah battery was fastened to the rear of the seat post with a couple of u-bolts.
The stock 36V chargers that come with these scooters are "ify" when it comes to longevity or reliability IMO. I bought my Stealth new in May, and by August, it would not hold a charge. I replaced with 17Ah batteries and they were door-stops by October.
For the last 11 months, I have been recharging all the batts in parallel using a single 12V automotive charger. It requires a bit of re-wiring initially, but I'm still running batteries that were declared "dead" in scooters I bought cheap on Craiglist. The big benefit is keeping all 3 batteries charged equally, and having a charger that can be easily replaced by a visit to your local auto parts store.
Hope this helps you get your S750 running. They are the most mod-friendly scooter that Currie ever made!
Harlow
Harlow,
Thank you very much for your help. I do plan on building a wiring set up I think you posted about on another thread. With jumper wires to make all 3 batteries charge at one time in a 12v environment then replacing the jumpers to put them back into a 36v environment. I already pulled them out and removed the solder and built my own wiring set up so I could disconnect them and charge each battery separately to get them charged. I have found this site very useful! I am on my way outside right now to see if I can get my scooter up and running. I'll post back up with any results and or questions. I am looking forward to getting it running so I can mod it a little bit for fun. The best part is I got the scooter for free!
I connected everything as e-doggies said to do. I have power at my controller, but when i twist the throttle I get no power to the motor. I am at 35 volts on the 3 batteries. They are not fully charged, but are currently charging to get to a complete full charge. My controller has a 20.5 volts under protection on it. I am assuming 35 volts should have been a enough to make the controller work. I did test the blue wire from my throttle which hooks to the green wire on my controller and I get no reading at all. I would assume that I should get some kind of volt reading there while moving the throttle? Anyone have any ideas of what I can check to help out?
I did not hook up the power indicator plug, charger connector plug or brake connector plug.
According to this page http://www.electricscooterparts.com/troubleshooting.html I should have some voltage readings on my throttle which I do not. I guess I will be ordering a throttle for sure.
That's a mis-print in the catalog description of your controller. It should say 31.5V as a LVC (like it does on the 500W CT-611B9 listed above it). It's typically 10.5V per battery.
At 35V, you are still above the LVC so that should not be causing any problems. Have you put your voltmeter directly on the red and black throttle wires coming from your new controller? If you have about 4.3V there, and when it's hooked up to the throttle, you have nothing coming back on the blue wire (measure from blue to black), regardless of how you twist the grip, it is a bad throttle.
The good news is, you can chose between another half-twist, a full grip, or a thumb throttle. Any hall-affect 3-wire throttle will work.
You're making progress!
I did check for power from my controller on the red wire and had the correct voltage, but the blue and black wire gave me no voltage. My new half twist throttle is here I just haven't had time to put it on yet. I am hopping this finally allows my scooter to work. I will either be back tomorrow with good news or more questions. hopefully it's good news. I would like to do some minor mods once the scooter is running.
Well my throttle now tests correctly. I have no power going to my motor from the controller though. Over the course of the week the batteries sitting had dropped to 43 volts. That should still operate my controller. I can disconnect everything and jump the batteries straight to the motor and get the motor to run. I am wondering if the yellow speed sensing wire on my controller has to be hooked up. I probably should have gotten suggestions from you guys before I ordered a controller. I haven't found much documentation on my controller other than what I posted. I am kind of at a loss here and will have to try too look up anything else I can check or see if I can find any information on my controller and see what is going on.
It seems if the brake lever switch wears out it will not let the controller work. I guess I will test it by disconnecting it to see if that helps it work.
IT RUNS!!!!! The brake lever switch must be bad and after disconnecting it the scooter moved forward on it's own power. Now to finish charging the batteries and on to a few mods. My first mod will be adding pegs to rest my feet on for a more comfortable riding position and rewiring the batteries to charge them in parallel with a car charger. I need to build a battery box cover as mine was missing when I got the scooter, I plan on getting some 17ah batteries for a little longer ride. I wonder if they make higher than 17ah batteries? I will have to do a search for that. Since I am making my own cover I can let the batteries sit straight up and make my cover to fit over them.Does anyone know about how long the 10ah batteries will last with a 750watt scooter going full throttle? This is my first scooter and I am not sure what to expect yet.
Any pics of the wiring changes any of you have made to simplify the series to parallel connections would be appreciated. Also if anyone has any kind of suggestions as fr as mods I wouldn't mind hearing those either. I will be scouring this site looking those up now that the scooter works.
Glad you got it running! Sometimes, you just have to start eliminating the variables to find the problem. Brake levers sometimes "stick", and sometimes the switch just fails like yours did.
17Ah batteries are the same case size as those rated at 20Ah or even 22Ah. You can fit up to four crosswise and standing up in the battery tray. A Group 27 plastic battery box with the bottom cut off might make a good enclosure.
You won't have a very long ride at full throttle with the 10Ah batteries, I'm afraid. If your batteries were in perfect shape, you would have 10Ah, but you should not discharge below 50% if you expect to get any decent length of life from your pack. So you have only 5Ah to consume. Your 750 Watt motor will draw about 20 Amps, so you could maybe run between 10-15 minutes at max throttle if you don't want to damage your batteries. Condition of the batteries, ambient temperature, the riding surface and flatness, tire pressure, brake adjustments, chain tightness, as well as your weight, will all affect range.
Regarding possible mods to your S750, There are changes in performance (speed, acceleration, range) and changes in comfort (pegs, handlebars, seat, etc.)
You might consider upgrading to 48V. You can fit (4) 12V 20Ah SLA's if you raise the deck. That's 960Wh compared to your current 360Wh. Your existing motor should run nicely at 48V. You would need a 48V controller, though. Other battery chemistries are avaiable and may be worth looking into.
A freewheel will definitely increase your range and decrease unnecessary wear. Because the S750 has thos big 3.0 inch tires, a roller clutch sprocket on the motor will rub on the sidewall. You can unscrew the main wheel sprocket and replace with a screw-on freewheel. You can bolt sprockets onto the freewheel to easily change gear ratios. You can also fiddle with the number of teeth on the motor sprocket to find the ratio that best suits your riding.
I never thought any Currie scooter was comfortable to ride. I've been on mine for up to 4 hours some days. The handlebars and seat are a couple things I'm going to be changing on mine!
How are you planning on attaching your footpegs?
I was planning attaching foot pegs in a few different ways. I could either drill holes and use bicycle pegs for the back of bikes for tricks, or I could weld a piece of threaded rod onto the frame and attach the same pages by bolting them onto the threaded rod. Or I could build foot boards similar to those used on dresser Harley Davidsons. I will probably use the bicycle pegs and weld some threaded rod onto my frame as to not weaken it vs drilling a hole in it. The Foot boards would be more comfortable but take Tons more work to fabricate the foot boards them selves.
I think My batteries may be toast. I have had them charging on the series charger since yesterday to get some more charge into them, and will switch back to parallel tomorrow once I fix up the wiring. I just can't get any speed out my scooter, it barely wants to go. I thought of the 48 volt set up, but I just bought this 36v controller 2 weeks ago. WIth out buying batteries I am already half way to the cost of a new scooter. After batteries I could have bought a new one. But not as mod friendly as this one I have been learning. I am hoping to do the free wheel mod you mentioned. I will inquire about it more once I get my scooter up to speed. I would venture to say I am getting about 1mph right now. The deck height isn't an issue for me, as my cover is already missing and I have to build my own. It can be what ever height I want.
Have you tried a no-load test? Block-up the back so the rear tire is off the ground. Give it full throttle and see how fast your wheel spins. Does it coast to a stop, or slow-down too quickly, or maybe stop abruptly at the end? Check the brakes for rubbing, front and rear.
If you take it for a ride, how long can you run at full throttle (1 mph)? Does the LED change to yellow or red? Or cutout? Have you checked the signal from your throttle? You should have variable voltage (when you twist the grip) on the blue or green wire coming from the throttle.
After you ride it awhile, without applying the brakes, stop and feel the rotors. If they are cool, you can eliminate the brakes as a source of drag.
Most likely, your batteries just can't hold it anymore. Maybe there's one really bad guy and you could replace just that one (not recommended) to finish off the season.
Let us know what you find out about the slowness problem. Thanks.
I accidentally left the scooter on and the first battery in line was 12.5v the second 7.5 and 3rd was 10.5 I have not parallel charged it again yet to test it any further. I am off work for 3 weeks so it may be a bit until I can order new batteries. I will test them further in the next day or two. My truck decided to blow it's water pump. It must have been jealous I was working on the toys and not it. At any rate I plan to get to the root of the problem very quickly. My throttle tests good, I get varying voltage on the green wire. (It's a brand new throttle.) I can't wait to get this thing running so I can get to modying it.
Depending on how much money you want to put into this you could upgrade your batteries to Ni-Cd (Nickle Cadium), NiMH (Nickle Metel Hydrate), Li-ion (Lithium Ion), LiFePO4 (Lithium Polymer). Battery Space is a really good site to get batteries. Below is a list of batteries that could work for you.
NiMH 36v 13ah $470 USD
Li-ion 37v (aka 36v) 10ah $540 USD
Li-ion 37v (aka 36v) 21ah $937 USD
LiFePO4 38.4v (aka 36v) 13.6ah $560 USD
hope it helps
ePed
O^O
Footpegs: I have a 750. I put a length of 1/2" galvanized pipe between the fork braces and clamped it with stainless U bolts. Works very well.
would anyone know how to connect this controller to an electra voy phantom? all of the voy's colors are different than the ct611b9 controller's, so i have no idea how to connect what to what!