Like many others my controller failed on my R-20, so I replaced it with a Kelly. However, now the battery light will flash when riding the scooter or completely stay off and the range is very small. Any ideas on what could be wrong? Do I need to replace my batteries? Thanks.
Eric
check the low voltage setting on the controller, it may be set abnormally high.
You will need to download the software, and plug the controller into your computer.
Matt
Daily Ride:
2007 Vectrix, modified with 42 x Thundersky 60Ah in July 2010. Done 194'000km
Hi Eric, My Z-20's battery indicator did the same thing for a while but eventually fixed itself, but it didn't have any effect on the range. But that happened when my Z-20 had the first replacement EVT controller in it. Did this happen immediately after installing the kelly controller or did it work ok for a while with the kelly and then start acting up? If it never worked right since the Kelly was installed then Matt is probably right. A person might be tempted to set the "under voltage" or low voltage too high, not taking into consideration when putting a load on the batteries like accelerating or cruising at top speed, the voltage will dip down much lower than you might think it would. I set my under voltage at 20 volts, knowing it is too low but I figured I'd bump it up a couple of volts every week or so until I felt like it was right. If your Z worked ok for a while after installing the kelly and then started acting up, try charging the scooter up and then ride it until it is wanting to shut down. Now check each battery's voltage. You may find 4 batteries with 13 volts and one with 8 or 9 volts...but I'm not sure if that would cause your battery lights to flip out like they're doing. You'll probably want to monitor your batteries voltages while charging too(especially if you're string charging without a battery equilizer) just to be sure you don't hurt the good batteries. Good luck and let us know what you find out! Frank
Thanks for the responses. This happened immediately after installing the kelly controller which I got through EVT. I have lost all trust in that company! In any case, over the weekend I had time to take apart my scooter, so everything is setup and I have a serial to USB adapter, so I can use my laptop (running Windows XP) to program it. My question now is: Now that the controller was completely hooked up will I have to take it all apart and take it out of the scooter to program or can I just leave it as is and hook it up. I'm an IT Administrator, but I'm a novice when it comes to electronics, so if I can't do this what would you recommend (in novice terms) the EASIEST way to hook up the controller for it to be program (being that it's already hooked up to the scooter)?
Hi Eric,
I'm looking at my Kelly manual right now and it looks like they want you to remove all wires except for the #1 PWR wire and the #2 GND coming from the J2 connector which will be used to power up the controller. I'll type up exactly what it says in the manual:
Use straight RS232 cable connecting the 9pin connector on face panel to a host computer. Provide 18v to 90v to PWR. Wire power supply ground to any RTN pin. Do not connect B+ , throttle and so on. The controller may display fault code, but it doesn't affect programming or configuration.
If you go on Kelly's website I think it's changed... www.newkellycontroller.com (I think that's it) and click on support and then again on KEB or KBL configurable program online demo or something similar to that you will get a nice preview of what you will see when you go to program your controller. They may even have a downloadable manual. You shouldn't have to remove the controller from the bike. Good Luck, Frank
when im programming my kelly, i dont remove *any* wires.
in fact my RS232 to USB connector never gets unplugged.
all you have to do to program, is turn the bike on as per 'normal', and plug your computer in, then run the configuration program.
Matt
Daily Ride:
2007 Vectrix, modified with 42 x Thundersky 60Ah in July 2010. Done 194'000km
Thanks for the info Matt. I couldn't understand what harm it would cause to leave the wires hooked up. When programming I would just unhook them all cuz the manual said to do it. Also I didn't want to hear that $400.00 POOF in case there was a problem with it!! Maybe the manual was speaking more about the first programming and should have said "No need to hook up B+, throttle, and so on." Thanks again, Frank
Thanks for the info. I tried it, but I think I need to adjust the voltage more. Unfortunately the serial cable came loose and I had to take the battery out, but in the process a wire hit something and shorted something... there was some smoke and now when I turn on the scooter I get nothing... not even the fans turning. I am so frustrated with this thing at this point, but I'm still determined to get it working because it was so much fun while it was working. Anyone have any ideas about where to start to resolve this issue?
WeLLLLLLLLL, there's that $400.00 POOF I was talking about! I'm hoping the little screw in fuse is blown instead of something more. If I remember right, NOTHING will work if the fuse is out or blown, and nothing will work if the DC-DC converter is bad too so if it's not the fuse it may be that. I know what you mean. My Z has been down a few times for months each time with bad controllers and both times I really missed riding it. It is really enjoyable cruising along almost silently, creating zero emissions. In spite of it's problems...it really is fun. Frank
Thats rather unfortunate to hear
im guessing it was one of the RS232 pins shorted to a 48v line?
or one of the other signal lines?
lesson for next time: insulate any high (well, 48v) lines as much as possible.
screwing the RS232 connector in as also advisable.
IIRC, the power to the controller (logic side) can be powered by full traction pack voltage.
If it is indeed the DC-DC thats blown, not the controller, the controller can still be powered up directly.
pictures or a wiring diagram of how youve wired it could help.
Matt
Daily Ride:
2007 Vectrix, modified with 42 x Thundersky 60Ah in July 2010. Done 194'000km
Good News! After getting some more free time to look at my scooter looks like the discharge ended up just popping the red wire in the circuit breaker and everything seems to be working as normal. I'm assuming the smoke had to be from the black paint on the frame, but for now I'm just really happy everything is turning on. However, I still need to program the controller which I'm having no issues connecting to now. I have an R-20. What is everyone using for their under voltage and upper voltage? Also, if someone could explain how those two work for a non electrical person that would be much appreciated. Thanks! I saw a post where someone used 50 for under voltage and 75 for over, but with that there's no pickup in the speed meaning it takes a long time to accelerate.