Just received my Rear 5303 motor and I had all sorts of pain mounting this
beast to a 2008 Kona mountain bike with 7"/7" travel. Took me a week or so of
filing, tweaking, and deciding which configuration and which washer and spacer
combo to use. Brakes rubbed real bad at first which was almost unbearable. Had
to space out the rear disc with some flat steel washers to get it to line up
correctly. Battery is 48V 20Ah LifePO4 and 48V 40A controller.
Top speed so far is 58.5 KpH. Here is a pic:
Crystalyte 5303 Rear Disc Mounted on Kona Mountain bike
Mon, 07/06/2009 - 04:06
#1
Crystalyte 5303 Rear Disc Mounted on Kona Mountain bike
Who's online
There are currently 0 users online.
Who's new
- eric01
- Norberto
- sarim
- Edd
- OlaOst
Support V is for Voltage
Sorry, the first pic did not turn out. Here is a look at the rear (5303 8" disc) with D.O.P.E. and rear floating braking system.
/>
Here is a shot of the semi-completed project outside our lovely patio in Japan. I used an orange
standard 110V plug and receptacle as my "on-off" switch.
A closeup of the 7 speed rear cog and the Maxxis Hookworm Tires.
These tires are are "beasts" and the best IMHO to run with
electric motors in street settings. They ride so smooth and
gained at least 5kph when I switched. Warning: They are WIDE!
and 51.9 volts constant.
I do not, repeat, do not run an inline fuse so it is risky at best. However, have a cycle analyst.
Am running 26 X 2.5 Maxxis Hookworm Street tires(as posted earlier)and new wire configuration. I do
not condone running this fast but just an experiment. I will concentrate on mileage and longevity
in the future. So far top speed is 65.1 KPH.
Can you mount that 4840 crystalyte controller in a trunk bag? I have a phoenix racer kit on a giant mountain bike and I have everything in the rear trunk bag. The controller gets hot in the bag but it hasn't shut off yet. I just did this and have only recorded a 5 mile test run. So I am curiuos to know if anyone has mounted their 4840 controller in the trunk bag and how did that go?
Hey hguido, show me a pic of that baby!
As far as the controller mounted in a bag, I'm sure if the weather was cool enough
and you didn't go on lengthy trips, it should be ok. I would not recommend this as
that you want to avoid anything that would contribute to overheating or exposing the
controller to higher temperatures. Placing it in a spot where it can get fresh cool
air would be your best bet. Anyone else want to chime in on this?
Did some winter testing and the results do not
seem to be as good as the summertime results.
Temperature average was 51 degrees with a minimum
of 38 degrees Farenheit.
On a 14.87km run, my data read as follows:
Amp Hours- 6.85
Amps Max- 50.42
Amps Min- -0.34
Volts Min- 46.5
Volts Max- 58.5
Watts Min-320
Watts max-2000
Max Speed- 60.1kph
Avg Speed- 27.6kph
On a 400km run:
Total Ah-158
I don't know if it's the cold weather, but averages have slipped somewhat.
I also tested these numbers by being a little throttle happy. Thanks to the Stand
Alone version of the Cycle Analyst for these testing numbers. They rock!
Have since reconfigured my battery pack setup. Was getting tired of the "ill handling"
via heavy straps, windings, and some duct tape.
from the heavy LifePO4 pack behind the seatpost. So what I did was to reverse the
rear rack and point it forward. I now have the battery pack secured underneath the
bike rack and on top of the frame
This is something I should have done a long time ago. I am able to pedal comfortably
and the pack does stick up a bit, but the handling and balance are now in harmony.
Maybe in the future, batteries will become smaller with the same power band.
Once again I had to reconfigure the battery pack due to pedaling issues. I
. I healed.
before thought I could pedal comfortably but after a dozen rides, my knees were
sticking out, causing aerodynamics to suck and outside left knee pain. This was
diagnosed as PFPS (palleto-femoral pain syndrome) on the outside of the left knee.
I thought something serious was wrong with my skeletal synching(LOL!)
Here is a new reconfigured battery pack pic(I know the battery sticks up so high
but it doesn't affect the ride and allows the knees to be seated properly more
inside) to allow more aerodynamics. The battery covering looks a little floppy I know.
Thank gosh it has seven inches of travel. Bad roads will be compromised!!!
Rear shock is 600 LB/Inch. Front needs to be stiffer. Marz 888 - Med. Stiffness.
Does anyone know where I can get an extreme stiff spring for the front?
In testing today, an easy 62.3KPH was attained with the new configuration. I could have run
faster but traffic was in the way. I must obey the street/highway signs to comply. Not
as fast as the summer time but close with it being 41 degrees with a 5 kph
constant wind. My ride was with a cross wind, though. I know for a fact that
I will beat 65+ kph this summer with this setup. Maybe next a fairing? Move
to 72V instead of 48V and see the raw difference? What are your thoughts?
That is one big battery. I can carry a 36volt 40ah LiFePO4 battery in a backpack...but it's a hell of a resistance work out after a 4 hour trip. Until the batteries get lighter, I purchased one of these to be the pack mule. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RF7FMuef-Og I test rode it yesterday, you will loose a bit of agility but at the end of a long 4+ hour ride...my back no longer hurts : )
72 volts and 40ah would make one jammin long distance ride...sort of like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJ5y5ieuTpw .
Yeah, that last pic made my battery look huge and somewhat sloppy. I had it originally
upright but decided to turn it sideways so the whole thing could be "thinner". It sticks
up a bit more, and I will have to "reskin" the battery to make it look proper. How much
does the 36V 40AH weigh? Mine is about 25 lbs.
38.4V 40Ah weighs a hefty 32.6 lbs. It's about the limit of what I can carry and still be able to pedal... a two hour trip is fine, anything longer and my back feels like...
old ride: with batteries in a backpack.
http://s488.photobucket.com/albums/rr249/falcosparverius/toys/?action=view¤t=IMG_0717Custom.jpg
new ride: with batteries in the trailer.
http://twitpic.com/14tlro
Looks as though you have a good setup on your Dahon. I looked at the
pictures of Palos Verdes and they are cool as well. Is this the most
powerful systen Bionx offers and is that a torqey motor or built for
speed?
The 500W motor is built for speed...not very torquey...but it was a light efficient set up, have never met a lycra clad road bikey rider that could keep up with it and the range with all four batteries in a backpack is close to 100 miles full throttle. Yes, that is the fastest motor by Bionx. I have since removed the kit from the Dahon...it's a normal pedal bikey now. I've learned all I needed from that set up.
You have a cool set up too...I see a problem with the batteries installed high in a back rack...did you experience any speed wobbles? How does it handle with the batteries on the frame? Any speed wobbles in that configuration?
Quiet speed is nice = )
It handles extremely well. I should have done this a long time ago. I semmed
to have picked up speed because it is better balanced. I will update the floppy
picture from before. I want to "skin" the battery with a nice waterproof clean
looking cover. Why did you remove the system? Are you going to put it on a different
bike?
Well, it's been a year and 4 months since my project began. After 1440 kilometers
and 50 complete cycles (I had less but forgot I disconnected the battery more than
once for re-wiring purposes), I have had zero problems so far. Also, do not
run an inline fuse of any type. Has anyone else out there run more than 100-300
complete cycles yet? Chime in if you can.