As we all know, the so-called speedometer on the XB-series is ... well, interesting. And there's no odometer in sight.
So, I got looking around the net and I saw all types; from high-end products and design to low-tech gauges.
I was wondering if anyone has any experience with a decent speedometer / odometer.
I see very cheap ones on ebay (coming from China... same place where most of the XB-series comes from).
Are these any good? Also, what's your opinion between wired and wireless speedometers?
After a little research it seems one of the problems with most bike speedometers/odometers is that the magnetic relay device that attaches to the spinning wheel is made to attach to a bicycle SPOKE. The wheels on the XB-600 are wide flat metal plates. I was thinking I could drill a hole but I'd hate to lose the integrity of the scooter's wheel. any ideas? or better speedometer products that solve the spoke problem?
EDIT:
Instead of stacking replies I'll just add an edit here.
I was checking out ecomodder website and saw the pics of a bike speedometer mounted to an XB-600. He drilled the rim and added the magnet (which I was worried about).
http://www.captainslug.com/temp/xb-600_008.jpg
I'm still not thrilled with drilling. I'm not sure how hardened the metal is. And the picture is drilled to the edge of the rim *wing*, not the center.
What I'm thinking now is using the rear wheel because the hub has bolts going around the rim and I could use the mounting bracket for the brake cable.
I may have to manufacture an extension bracket, but my other idea is to use a wireless device because I don't think the line would be long enough (since most are made for the front fork).
I also like the rear wheel mount because with the middle kickstand up I can test the speedometer by twisting the throttle.
I used the speed/odometer that came with the DrainBrain (now Cycle Analyst). It too uses a magnetic sender. I drilled a hole in the center of one of the "spokes" and bolted the magnet holder to it. While I am not in the least worried about drilling a 3/32" hole in the center of a "spoke," there were a couple of problems:
When the sender magnet is correctly spaced, the speed reading is perfectly accurate (once the diameter is entered). The Odometer reading is low, due to miles traveled while the sending magnet is missing, but it is VERY much better than nothing.
Mark
Mark, thanks for your input and experience. I'll consider BOTH options (once I decide on the speedometer).
The issues you point out with the front wheel / fork might be addressed by mounting it on the rear wheel (the mounting bracket is closer to the wheel and there's less sideways flexing).
Interesting idea about mounting on the back wheel, but, yes, cord length is a problem. OTOH, the signal is a VERY simple "make and break" pulse at 1/Rev. It would be simple to extend the cable.
Mark
I'm gonna get a wireless model, so the cable length won't be an issue. It also allows me to mount the gauge anywhere I want... if I even want to mount it at all.
I'll order a cheap one off eBay and test it out.
Just an update on this project. I finally got my wireless speedometer in the mail, the post office screwed it up. In fact, it was taking so long (over a month) for delivery that I simply ordered another one... as as luck has it they BOTH arrived in the same week, so now I have two of them. However, neither of them work because of the limitations of the wireless signal. It needs to be under 24 inches and that's a problem.
First, I did a rear wheel mount. I removed the two screws holding the useless decoration over the hub (driver's left side) and I used the screw mounts on the hub itself. I did this because I didn't want to drill holes in the front wheel / rim. I created mounting brackets from metal banding material. It all worked out.
Second, I mounted the receiver unit next to the hall throttle using zip cords between the throttle and the plastic housing (just on the other side of the mirror). Everything was mounted and fine and I calculated the input data of wheel size into the receiver / computer. BUT... as I noted above it didn't work because of the distance.
I had to run to the bank and the Farmer's Market so I took the bike out on a run even with the non-functioning speedometer. I took the receiver off the mount (it clips on and off) and I held it down by my side closer to the sensor. Sure enough it works. But obviously I can't go around holding my arm down by one side looking down at a speedometer.
I will look into the WIRED version, next -- since all the mounting worked out on the rear wheel (which doesn't have the front wheel problem of being mounted on the shock absorber that moves up and down)
Mine is on the front wheel. The front fender bolts are conveniently located to add a bracket for the pickup. Since that part is on the "unsprung" part of the front suspension, it moves with the rim. I DID drill the front wheel in the center of one of the spoke webs to mount the magnet. I don't think it compromised the wheel strength too much.
The biggest problem was that there is far more flex in the front suspension than you might think. It appears that the front rim flexes up to 3/8" or so TO THE SIDE while riding. I added a second hi-strength magnet to increase the pickup range to get better clearance. This also had the side benefit of providing a "break away" design in case the magnet flexed into the pickup.
Mark
I had the opportunity to ride by one of those roadside radar signs and it says I'm clocking the standard 18 mph. Sad.
I'm holding off on the speedometer installment until I modify the bike (shunt, a fifth battery, et.).
I'll gladly take 25 mph.