Kaishan repair.

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Persona Non-Grata
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Last seen: 6 years 10 months ago
Joined: Monday, October 5, 2009 - 00:31
Points: 75
Kaishan repair.

Hi, I think I need help fixing my kaishan, it stopped working almost a year ago and I‘m just getting to fixing it now. First off, something is wrong with the controller. While it worked it was heating up enough to almost burn me through leather gloves, a problem which progressively got worse as I continued to use it. It also encountered progressive degeneration of hill performance (what I’m after), I think they two problem/symptoms were/are related. Because I have now forgotten about it for most of 2 winters there is now both some cosmetic colour fading and finish flaking (to be fixed with spray on rust paint), and more importantly a seized back tire freewheel and chain (I’m hoping extensive CLR soaking will help). There is also a problem with the socket that one of the pedal’s attach to, it is deformed through heavy use and no longer holds the pedal safely (a legal requirement), the other side’s socket appears to not be far behind.
So, 2 main questions, should I abandon the pedal function of the bike and remove the unnecessary parts (no pedals, chain, or related hardware), or attempt to fix it. 2, How would I go about diagnosing a potential electronic hardware problem? (I think it’s one of the FET transistors by resistance readings between all of the legs) And how would I fix them with parts from where? I could just yank the bad transistor, and replace it with the same, but I have doubts of finding the exact same transistor. Another problem is that I don’t know anything about what is normal for this controller, is there any way to divine that from its physical setup? Any questions? I can post pictures of the problem controller.

Persona Non-Grata
Offline
Last seen: 6 years 10 months ago
Joined: Monday, October 5, 2009 - 00:31
Points: 75
Re: Kaishan repair.

OK, more specifics, I have several plans for fixing my Kaishan. First I have now decided to remove the pedaling apparatus for both less weight, less resistance, and because as it stands now it is a hazard and I don’s have the facilities to perform the kind of repairs needed, only removal. Second, I need to choose to either fix the controller, or to replace it.
So, big question, the coordinated pulsating DC that mimics a three-phase AC for a brushless DC effect, does it only act in one direction, that is only on or off, not on then off then reverse, or on then reverse immediately. Visually this: ^-^-^-^-^ (just on and off) ,and not this: v-^-v-^-v (on, off, then reverse), or the yet higher magnetic impedance this: ^v^v^v^v (on and off without time for the magnetic field to collapse, therefore consuming electricity reversing it, I doubt it but I don‘t know). If I decide to go with my plan to replace the controller I will need to know things like this to make accurate judgements on what to replace it with. I do know that as part of the controller’s function it boosts the voltage of the batteries from 48v nominal to somewhere around 110 volts, which is probably the maximum voltage tolerance of the motor, or close to it, the internet manual did say that much.
If I decide to fix it I will need to know how to find out what is wrong with it, and how to replace the individual part, I have a suspicion that it is one of the power modulating FET’s, I need to know how to tell for sure. It also did not have regenerative braking, despite internet rumour that it did, I want to add it as a separate trigger from the mechanical brakes, or activate that function of the controller if it has it dormant.
My budget would almost certainly stop me from replacing it with another whole controller, unless a reliable one can be bought online for less than ~$100.00CAD.
Thankyou for your time and comments.

With a hammer, a chisle can be made. With a hammer and chistle, files can be made. With hammer, chisle, and file anything else can be made.
Kaishan k500w retired, Merida TEV500 on indefinite sabbatical, currently using a Currie E-zip Trailz.

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