Could someone post the correct steps to doing a Deep Discharge. I tried doing one today and ran into the buSULt error. I wasn't sure how hard I should push the bike, even on flat terrain. Where should I be looking. Once the bike is in the Red and the battery is super low should I let it cool down before charging it again? When I plugged in the bike (with no cool down) the Red Battery Light was still blinking. Last of all, if there anything I should write down when the bike is charging.
I tried Googling 'Deep Discharge Vectrix' but didn't come across a clean post with recommendations. :D
Thanks!
First, a bit of background to back up my advice/experience AND bear in mind that I'm in the UK and climate has a lot to do with it. My V is coming up for 3 years old with 12,500 miles on the original battery pack. I have the latest software installed (68mph upgrade). My commute is a 16 mile round trip. Every other day I usually take a slightly longer route home to get to the red light. I don't go as far as the BuSULT. I plug in and charge on a timer in the cooler early hours, with a pre-charge delay in summer. I'm still getting around 35-42 miles a charge and am pretty confident that the pack is well balanced. I'm of the opinion that running down to the red light frequently helps accomplish this. Don't go right down to the BuSULTt, that's not necessary. My main bit of advice is to keep an eye on the temperature during riding and charging, especially after a discharge to the red. The average temp my pack reaches for a charge from empty is around 32 at the end of the charge, though it has hit 36. The first thing I do in the morning is to check it and then run a pre-cool delay to take the temp out. It can usually drop to about 25 in half an hour.
I know this flies in the face of a lot of the advice on here about not discharging to the red, but that appears to be in the hotter climates where the pack gets hot towards the end of a charge from empty. I'm no expert, all I can offer is the detail from my own experience. Don't be afraid of a discharge to the red (note I'm avoiding using the word 'deep') BUT monitor the temp.
Also, don't believe the gauge, use the left brake and kill switch trick to check the remaining volts in the pack - this is much more accurate and, with a bit of practice, you will soon know how many miles you have left from the readout. For instance, when I hit 124 volts, I know I have around 6-8 miles left until the red light if I ride slowly, and 3-4 if I hammer it. The red light usually comes on at about 120 volts for me.
Hope this helps
I think the low-battery warning line is actually "BUSVLT" and probably stands for "Battery Under Safe Voltage".
If the battery is well balanced and the cells have similar capacity, then all cells may be OK when the BUSVLT appears.
But if any cells are less charged or have lower capacity, then they will be reversing at such low voltages and that destroys them relatively soon.
This information may be used entirely at your own risk.
There is always a way if there is no other way!