I have an RMartin EVD VRLA. After parking it today I noticed smoke pouring out of the opening in the plastic near the right handlebar. After letting the scooter cool down and after the smoke literally cleared I opened up the front end. It seems some part related to the ignition burnt out. See photos below. First pic shows it in the bike before I removed it. Remaining pics show the single removed part from different perspectives.
So, what is this part called and where can I find a replacement?
The same thing happened to my XM-3500 recently except no smoke, I feel like I got gypped mine just sizzled. I'm not sure where to get a replacement for yours, but in the meantime you can hotwire your bike by connecting the two wires that are on the connector that came off the connector in your photo. (maybe you already know this, but just in case) For now you could just cut the wires below the melted part and then attach an on/off switch, then attach the connector again and tuck it up under the fender somewhere out of sight. (that's what I did for now) You have to thread the wire down to where you can reach it under the fender. Hope this helps you keep running for now.
PS To make it clear, my issue was with the ignition switch itself.
2008 XM3500li Mods/Kelly KBL12251/84v 28cell 40AH pack/ Variable regen brake trigger on left brake handle/Givi/Cycle Analyst/Homemade BMS
KMX Typhoon Home build (recumbent pedelec) with two Astro Brushless 3220motors/twin castle Phoenix ICEHV 160/ Cycl
Thanks Iccarus, that is a good short-term suggestion. Would you know what electrical rating the switch would need?
No,but I just got a 16amp rocker switch at the hardware store and it's working fine so far. By the way I meant put it under the cowling where you can reach it, not the fender.
Bill
2008 XM3500li Mods/Kelly KBL12251/84v 28cell 40AH pack/ Variable regen brake trigger on left brake handle/Givi/Cycle Analyst/Homemade BMS
KMX Typhoon Home build (recumbent pedelec) with two Astro Brushless 3220motors/twin castle Phoenix ICEHV 160/ Cycl
Im parting my Lithium EVD out. Motor, controller, batts, motor cover plastic right side is gone.
Have everything else.
dex
Have the same problem on my xm 4000 LI
It is very hard to find a switch for 70 VDC. I have found some, but they are hard to get. The best way is to trigger a relay, that will short the two wires, but i have tried, and it is a dead end.
I have been having a scooter on standstill for two weeks because of this!
xm4000-li
Just a suggestion, did you check out: http://allchineseparts.com/index.php for replacement parts.
Also, now that we have access to E-Fun (http://visforvoltage.org/forum/8207-e-fun-experiences-and-development-prc-ev-vehicle-manufacturer-latest-products-and-develop), I wonder if they can steer you to a seller on Alibaba.com that has replacement parts.
Any ideal what is shorting so others could do preventive modifications?
Good luck,
IBS
Motorcycles: 2011 ZEV Trail 7100, 84V, 60AH, 60+mph, Cycle Analyst, TNC throttle, modified charger. 2013 Kymco GT300i
Bicycles: 2017 Sondors Thin
Cars: 2016 Leaf SV, 30KWH pack. 2007 CR-V
Solar array: 5KW. Cost per lifetime KWH produced $0.073
Bi
I don't need a replacement, as the replacement would also get fried.
Well. To spare on the key lock, turn the key fast. If you turn it slowly, the spark inside the keylock will fry the copper connections. I have pictures of it :)
xm4000-li
FYI
Back in August I did order a replacement ignition module from X-treme. It was the replacement for the XM-3000 I think. It did work in my VRLA EVD. With shipping it cost around $50. Looks like now they have free shipping.
To find the part, go to the following page:
http://www.x-tremescooters.com/owning/parts/parts.html
Then put in "Electric Mopeds" for Model and put in "ignition" in the Search field.
The result you want is:
Electric Motorcycle Ignition Module with Key
Model: XM-3000
Model#: XM3000-230
Note: N/A
Shipping: Included (Free)
Price: $37.00 Each
-Jerome
Thank you, but i dont want a new one, as it will fry just like the old one.
xm4000-li
Jerome,
I guess what I was trying to get to was if we could find a replacement ( like you did) and determine the cause of the problem, we might be able to provide a solution for other owners. It seems like this problem has come up a lot and nobody wants to get stranded with a melted ignition.
I would be interested in seeing photos of the ignition contacts. I am curious if they make strong enough contact that some of the metal parts could be coated with dialectic grease to provide some corrosion protection and protection from arcing.
IBS
Motorcycles: 2011 ZEV Trail 7100, 84V, 60AH, 60+mph, Cycle Analyst, TNC throttle, modified charger. 2013 Kymco GT300i
Bicycles: 2017 Sondors Thin
Cars: 2016 Leaf SV, 30KWH pack. 2007 CR-V
Solar array: 5KW. Cost per lifetime KWH produced $0.073
Bi
If you are worried about it frying again, then I'd suggest buying the same key switch as described, and use it to switch a 12v relay and then let the 12v relay handle the HEAVY current. That way the switch is safe from the high currents.
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eRider 8000w Scooter - PDT Version
72v 50AH CHL battery
350A Sevcon controller
24km: Delivered - 24 September 2011
2490km: Installed dual 35w HID lights Bi-Xenon Projectors - 27 November 2011
8313km: Installed BMS -
Yes you are correct, but i have not been able to find any relay that can run on 70 Volts. It is all 12 and 24 volts. But you are right, i could do that, if i had a relay that worked at those voltages.
xm4000-li
One possibility to avoid the above problem is to turn the bike on with the lights turned off. The problem, as someone mentioned above, is the spark caused by turning the bike on. That spark will not be there is the lights are off when you switch the bike on. You can turn the lights on after that, and there will be no spark.
The caveat is that you will be possibly transferring the spark location from the ignition key to the switch for the lights. But if the latter is more robust, it may never have a problem.