Timers...

I use a large mechanical type timer (like they use for water heaters) that's wired into the circuit rather than a plug-in type. It comes on at 8p.m. and shuts off at 6a.m. I HAVE to use an extension cord to get from the timed receptacle to my bike, but it's a heavy duty 20' cord.

Motorhomes use extension cords all the time to run all the appliances inside. Just make sure it's a heavy cord, and if possible, get one that's made for motorhomes.

I've been using a digital timer for nearly a year and 4,000 miles with no problem.

Just double checking, it's o.k. to use a timer with Vectrix charging right? From what I understand, the use of extension cords is in general a bad idea, but timers are o.k.?

Timers are recommended to use, as the ESD chargers in the original Vectrix heat up a lot while not charging but plugged in.

using extension cords is only an issue if you are charging from 110vac

The problem is, if the voltage at the charger falls, it compensates by drawing more current to maintain the 1500W output
If the current goes too high, it burns out.

I'd use a killawatt meter or similar to measure the voltage at the end of the lead while charging if you have to use an extension lead of significant length.
if the voltage goes below 105vac, a higher rated cord will be needed.
if the voltage goes below 95vac, you may damage the charger.

If you are charging on 220vac, extension cords are fine.

Matt

Get used to lots of interesting conversations at places where you stop. Sometimes it can get annoying (when you're in a hurry) but it's usually a fun way to interact with strangers. ;-)

Since the Vectrix cord is on the short side, it is often unavoidable to use an extension cord if you can't park it inside your garage.
It is easy to verify that you have a good cord before buying by checking the gauge of the cord, if it is 12 AWG then you are good to go.
Stay away from higher gauge (thinner) cords such as 16 or even 18 gauge. Use 14 gauge only if it is a short cord. If you can, measure the voltage on the end of the cord while the Vectrix is charging, see the earlier post about the effect of the voltages.

Timers used with the VECTRIX for charging should be rated to operate loads such as an Air Conditioner, and designed for 1,800 watt or greater load at 120 volts. (Rated for at least 15 amperes) I have sucessfully charged my VECTRIX many times, from 120 volts using a 50 foot long, 12 guage extension cord. Longer runs are best served by using 208 to 250 volt service, then you are OK using 14 guage wire for 200 feet!

I hear it's National Be Kind to your Charger week, so I'm upgrading my charge station at home. I run a large wall timer from my shop (like they put on water heaters), but have to use a 20 foot extension cord to get juice to the bike. This has served me well for several years, but yesterday I picked up an RV 10 guage 30 amp service cord and a 30 amp male to 20 amp female adapter. The cord is 30 feet long, but I only need about 15 feet, so the plan is to cut the cord and wire the loose end directly into the timer (no plug), then use the adapted end at the bike. My charge timer is on the longest run of house wire from the power box, so I am a bit concerned about the inherent drop in watts.

I've already lost one charger on this bike, but I'm pretty certain that the loss came from the bike being plugged in during an electrical storm we had, as there were severaly things in the house that were taken out as well.

30 amp cord was right at $50 bucks and the adapter was another $6. So I'll have about $100 bucks tied up in my timed charge station at home.

It is not about whether you have a 30A cord, but the voltage that is left over after it comes off the transformer (often on a pole in USA) through the overhead wire to the home, through the service panel and breakers, through the house wiring to the outlet and then through your extension cord until it finally hits the Vectrix charger.
The Vectrix charger has a PFC (Power Factor Correcting) input which is an odd beast in that it will always draw the same power, no matter at which voltage it is connected (within reason) so to draw 1500W from an outlet with almost no wire resistance at a rather high 125V is only 12A, but if the wire resistance allows the votlage to drop to 110V then the charger starts drawing 13.6A and if the house wiring and extension cord in series allow the voltage to drop to 90V (Like I had on one of my EVs) then it will try to draw 1500W/90V = 16.7A!
Clearly this puts much higher strain on the components and will also blow the breaker regularly, which will send an additional spike down the line which in itself can kill the charger!

It is easy to see if you are in the danger zone: measure the voltage at the point where the charger plugs in *while* the charger is drawing maximum current (during the first hours of charging an empty pack). If it drops below 110V then you should take action to reduce resistance, either by using a shorter/lower gauge cord or by selecting an outlet with a shorter run of house wiring. Moving your bike to a different spot can save your charger!
It is easy to test votlage by temporarily adding a 15A power strip at the end of the extension cord, so you can measure the votlage in one outlet while the charger is plugged in and drawing power from another outlet of the same strip.

Does anybody have problems charging on rainy days? I would think that would be sufficient to keep any water off of it. Plus, the place I am talking about is at the top of a hill. Any concerns?

Seal the front holes of the battery container, and seal the front tempboard connector. I sealed it with a plastic bag, and never had problems again with rain.
http://visforvoltage.org/forum/11072-seats-cable-replacement

...
The Vectrix charger has a PFC (Power Factor Correcting) input which is an odd beast in that it will always draw the same power, no matter at which voltage it is connected (within reason) so to draw 1500W from an outlet with almost no wire resistance at a rather high 125V is only 12A, but if the wire resistance allows the votlage to drop to 110V then the charger starts drawing 13.6A and if the house wiring and extension cord in series allow the voltage to drop to 90V (Like I had on one of my EVs) then it will try to draw 1500W/90V = 16.7A!
Clearly this puts much higher strain on the components and will also blow the breaker regularly, which will send an additional spike down the line which in itself can kill the charger!

..it is that last sentence which prompts me to add my 2 cents worth; and the
part of the reason why in this thread: http://visforvoltage.org/forum/3862-charging-timer#comment-30251
I do not support using mechanical timers. Sure they are inexpensive and
readily available. The down side is there is no way to control when
in the phase cycle the contacts close. They might close at a phase angle
of 10 degrees or they might close at a phase angle of 270 degrees.
I don't know about anybody else but I would rather prevent as much
electrical noise as possible from getting a chance to devastate my
rides electronics. Consistently applying power at zero phase angle
is one solution to this problem. It is done by use of a 'zero point
crossing' solid state relay. Attached is a diagram of the timer I built shortly
after I acquired my bike and have used it ever since, for every charge.

I provide this information for the sole purpose to be used within the
realm for which it was designed: to schedule the charge process of my Vectrix electric motorcycle.
I do not accept responsibility for mis-use of this information and if you decide to
use this information, by doing so, you agree to accept all responsibility for its use/mis-use.

((whew.... glad to get that out of the way))
Granted it is very rudimentary - but at the time I did not need much
else nor did I desire to design some elaborate system. Times have changed.
I am in process of updating my battery to a Lithium format and now am
also redesigning the timer to be pic based which will allow greater
flexibility feature-set-wise. Anyway it is my hope that this information
inspires ebike owners to maybe look beyond the simple/fast/ease/cheap
solution that sometimes may not necessarily be the best for the situation.