Hi,
I'm getting irratic behaviour from my controller and guess it is beginning to fail.
- flashing lights indicate current sensor is gone, I have to burn of some current leaving the headlights on before it will switch on
- occasionally the bike will run slow if the batteries are at full charge or hot (over voltaging of some kind)
I'd like to ask if these things are easy to fix with a voltmeter etc or whether I am better off buying a new one. (I could not find one online).
The bike is a 2500w 60v brushless one.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks.
Can you give more information on scooter? Was it stock 60 volt when new? Did the problem just arise? What was original volt of pack and motor/ controller? I had a "TANK" 48 volt and it was under powered and when I got it pack was toast. I could see that from swelled cells. I purchased a cheap 48 volt pack and got a 1/2 year out of them and then went to squishing in a 5th battery making it 60 volts using EVX12200 and wow what a difference. More range and slightly faster too. But like you describe, I had to leave lights on for maybe 10 minutes to eat top charge off till it got down to 63 or 64 volts and then the Tank would move.It lasted a year or two till a local bike shop smoked it for me. I finally put in a "new" controller to verify motor still worked and then stored it. So really more explaining is needed to make a informed decision. Most Made-in-China controllers seem to be programmed with voltage and current parameters in them. I had to order a new controller with checked off programmed instructions. Oh also throttle assy was a program too for zero to 5 or 10 volt HALL effect throttle vs resistive? I saved my old controller but it looks so bad. Messy solder blobs and lots of burnt FETs. Going the latest and the greatest is always good for me at least. Plus a larger controller runs cooler and motor now gets warm or hot. Oh BTW is it a PWM or VFD in other words is it a brushed motor or brushless design? If it is older brush design then you can get a cheap golf cart controller for cheap monies to run scooter. Most scooter use brushless120 degree controllers though.
KB1UKU
Hi
Yes it was a 60v 2500w when new. The only thing I have changed is the battery charger. The bike does have a generic problem in that they all occasionally need pushing forward a little sometimes before the engine would fully get going.
I bought the batteries a couple of years ago, but the 'current sensor' warning flashes are a recent thing, and this completely disables the bike until I drain some of the power off.
Do you think all of the components would be testable by an electronics bod for repair???
Cheers
Piers
It's brushless, I don't know about the hall sensors.
for less than $100 the latest technology is available thru alibaba.com for a controller with similar wattage .Some of the can run from 48v to 100v .If willing to pay and resign to the available DOWNLOAD of the SUCH programable controller and the bugs are found ,it would save the hustle of figuring out how to CONNECT the NEW one but still be like chewing on old junk . There is plenty of choices uot there cheap .There is wisdom in using tape on lifepo packs . A good 40 amp wind turbine diode allows me to drop one or two sla's up front ,the li batts , that makes my system more flexible CHEAPLY.Out there is great market for sensible people that have gone beyond sla, brushed motors and sprockes and chains ...... digressing GOOD luck