Controllers

There were a few electric scooters auctioned at the local university that were abandoned by students who graduated and went home to out of State residence. My daughter put a bid on a eMoto G2 and won it. Needs some work; probably charge the batteries and no ignition key. Does this model have a security type key that communicates with the processor?

On the eMoto G2 electric scooter, I noticed that when the key switch is turned on, the head light and tail light are turned on. The head light switch is inoperable, and is not wired into any circuiting, although the operators manual shows that there are three positions for the head light switch: to the right is off; center is the running light, instrument light, tail light; and to the full left, all the lights are on with the head light. The head light can't be turned off while operating the scooter in the daylight hours.

I would like to revise this, and wire the light switch into the controller, where there must be some device that controls the lighting, so that the lighting system will work like it is supposed to. Does anyone here have a schematic for the controller board for the G2, or know where I could obtain one?

Brushed or Brushless?
I use those 24 volt Master Scooters and Curie scooters on 36 volt DC permanent magnet motors and get the motors hot. I test it out first using a real golf cart controller to power motor. A 350 Amp controller isn't going to burn up with a toy motor. On my old 48 volt TANK I went to 60 volt for a couple of years, till it popped the original controller. So I now use a 60 volt from my old eXtreme controller and it works OK. I carry my batteries in a back pack and plug it in as I ride off into sunset. This way I have to charge when I get back into house. Controllers are cheap to find on eBay so the batteries stay close to me. If I need more range just get another back pack of batteries. Since my VX-1 is losing range I am making it a Lead Sled? 11 each CSB EVX-12200 fits in there so perfect. One hundred 132 volt pack of "heavy lead" But it still runs and also on the cheap.
Just push what ever you do to the limit. If you are worried~ then fuse it for power you need or want?

Brushed or Brushless?
I use those 24 volt Master Scooters and Curie scooters on 36 volt DC permanent magnet motors and get the motors hot. I test it out first using a real golf cart controller to power motor. A 350 Amp controller isn't going to burn up with a toy motor. On my old 48 volt TANK I went to 60 volt for a couple of years, till it popped the original controller. So I now use a 60 volt from my old eXtreme controller and it works OK. I carry my batteries in a back pack and plug it in as I ride off into sunset. This way I have to charge when I get back into house. Controllers are cheap to find on eBay so the batteries stay close to me. If I need more range just get another back pack of batteries. Since my VX-1 is losing range I am making it a Lead Sled? 11 each CSB EVX-12200 fits in there so perfect. One hundred 132 volt pack of "heavy lead" But it still runs and also on the cheap.
Just push what ever you do to the limit. If you are worried~ then fuse it for power you need or want?

Hello,

I own an electric scooter (chinese origin: Guewer Retro) with following
specs:

4 x 12 V 35 AH SLA batteries in series
2000 watt 50 Amp max controller
2000 watt hub motor with hall sensor

I early in use replaced the batteries by a custom made
LiFePO4 pack by Batterylabs.nl:
20 AH 48 volt 2C : marked 40 amp continuous current , 80 amp
burst

My problem is that now the controller is broken.

I have another one (generic chinese) rated 48 volt 5000 watt 108 amp current
limited.

Can I use this controller with the current battery and hub
motor ?
Do I need to limit the current in some way so it doesn't
kill the battery and/or motor ?
The controller has a lead called : setting max speed...?
Or will just go easy on the throttle limit the current automatically ?

Thank you very much for answering

Jan