The bike made a grating noise and then skidded to a halt, so I had to be rescued. Any comments on what has caused this?
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Sounds like what happened to my Vectrix. In my case it was the encoder, which is inside the rear wheel motor cover, which had gone wrong. It is like a spring washer, with various-length dashes engraved in it, associated with a small printed circuit board. It made the rear wheel jerk and clonk, almost as if there were a broken cog inside the motor. Replacing the encoder solved the problem.
Does the wheel rotate with the ignition off? If so, does it do so jerkily and noisily? If so, it sounds more like planetary gear issues. I recall from a previous post - a long time back - someone found a loose bolt or two inside the 'gearbox' when they took the back wheel apart. If the wheel rotates fairly smoothly then it may be the encoder. If you are going to try to fix it yourself , have a look at the encoder first as it is a lot easier. The V service manual can be downloaded from thd web. Well worth the effort if u are DIYing!
Regards, Martin Winlow
Isle of Colonsay, Scotland
evalbum.com/2092
Try to calibrate the encoder with scooterdiag.
If the encoder does not respond to scooterdiag command, replace the encoder board.
If it was a "grating" noise I would suggest a mechanical problem, like a stripped out bearing ring. But if it was a "shutter/stutter" noise it may more likely be controller wiring type of problem. I had similar symptoms on a non-Vectrix scooter-bike 2/3 motor supply wires shorted out, sounded like a washing machine. Vectrix users have already come to a consensus on what exactly is likely to be wrong.
With a hammer, a chisle can be made. With a hammer and chistle, files can be made. With hammer, chisle, and file anything else can be made.
Kaishan k500w retired, Merida TEV500 on indefinite sabbatical, currently using a Currie E-zip Trailz.
Your replies and helpfulness are very much appreciated. Here are some more details and an update:
During the incident, I was on a slight left bend at around 20-25mph. I heard a grating noise from the rear and the rear wheel locked (as far as I could tell). The rear wheel remained locked when stationary.
I switched off and then on to perform a test (accelerator full on, right brake on and then left brake on). This produced forward and back turns of the needle (since gone) but it also appeared to allow the wheel to move again.
Now the bike appears to perform normally while stationary (I do not dare take it back on the road for fear of another wheel lock, which of course could be very dangerous). All I do notice now is that the reverse gear occasionally does not work (corrected by switching on and off). And there is the morse code sound from the rear - plus a click click click on each revolution as the rear wheel turns slowly).
There have never been any messages during or since the incident.
From a layman's perspective, something appears to have disengaged (grating) and then jammed (wheel lock) but I am puzzled as to why the bike appears to be working (near) normal again.
Regards,
Jeff
HI jeff, this update is quite revealing: The wheel cannot be locked by electronic damage, this is a gear, physical problem. I've heard about this problem before. The oil inside the gearbox ages and becomes quite solid, and may lock the wheel. That sudden lock can destroy the engine, the encoder and the Motorcontroller. If the engine still spins normally, you've been lucky.
I suggest you dismantle the gearbox cover, following the procedure descrived in the service manual, look for solid oil, send us pictures (please), clean all that possible dusted oil, and test the engine without gears.
If everything spins ok, make the cover modification to drain and refill oil, close the gearbox (Use a torque arm to tighten the bolts, using torque values described in the service manual, otherwhise you'll break something: aluminium is pretty weak!), and fill it with recommended oil (Never use conventional oil for gas mills, it is too dense).
Also have a look at the encoder. Carefully open the optical cap and clean all the area with computer spray cleaner. Never use pressured air, it contains water that can damage the electronic board. Before closing the encoder cover, apply a protective layer of Acrylic protective lacquer. Recently I've lost my encoder due to water corrosion.
http://www.directindustry.es/prod/electrolube/barnices-proteccion-circuitos-impresos-6210-169678.html
To owners with a Vectrix over 20.000 km mark or +5 years, you should know that the vectrixs
"Do"
have a maintenance. The oil inside the gearbox should be replaced regularly to avoid a wheel lock: I recommend to replace it every 10.000-20.000 km, or 3-4 years.
Clean and protect the encoder with lacquer at least once per year.
If you have Li vectrix, use the lacquer on the 4 BMS boards once per year, to protect them from the hot gas vented from the cells. That gas damages the BMS board's voltage, temperature sensors, the system becomes partially blind and causes the destruction of some cells, due to accidental overcharge or under-voltage .
R, do you have any pictures of "solidified oil" to share? I find it hard to believe this would happen at all, and that if it did thicken, that it would cause a lockup at speed.
I think it is more likely a mechanical issue with a bearing or gear inside the gearbox. A piece of material could have caused a lockup, and when the diagnostic reversed, it got dislodged and allowed for normal operation again. I would agree with you that servicing the gear box is in order to eliminate potential mechanical issues.
...but correct me if I am wrong - I do not have gears on my Vectrix Li+. It is just a twist-and-go.
We mean the planetary gears in the hub inside the rear wheel. Guessing from your description that they somehow jammed temporarily.
yes! you have them:
you need to open that gearbox cover and clean the gears. Send pictures please!
kocho, I tried to obtain the pictures of that locked gearbox I've heard about, but so far no news...