Has anyone on "V" opened up the Controller on a 5000Li Moped? The reason I ask is that I am without lights on my 5000Li. I have a good DC and we have tested the wires from the DC to the Controller and there is no power coming out. I have power to the motor and the battery pack is fine. I just don't have lights and I have no experience with the controllers to just open one up.
So, I am hoping that someone here has had the same problem and can help me out. The best option would be a complete step by step breakdown of how you fixed this issue. I know that I am possibly dreaming here.
Now I have changed the DC a couple of times on my 5000Li and the ignition set. But I have over 28,000 miles on her and I would like to keep going. She could use some parts changed to really have her back in peak form, but otherwise she is a great moped.
As a side problem, I occasionally have an issue where the moped will only go between 30-35 mph max for no reason at all. A couple of years back I tried to ride her a bit too early in the season and I somehow blew my charger and something else because once I got back on the moped, my speed issue started. This did not happen after that ride for another year. However, now I get that a majority of the time. I just changed out the throttle and I have a new ignition set on the way. So I am hoping that this will take care of that problem. But any help with this issue would be welcome as well.
Scootercaptain
XM-5000Li - 28,000+ & I want more.
XM-3500Li - 4,000 prior to selling to upgrade.
EVD-3000 - 3,800+ prior to selling to upgrade.
Rad2Go 1500 - 2,800+ prior to selling to upgrade.
The motor controller could not have anything to do with the 12 volt accessory circuit. Look for a fault in the wiring somewhere. In particular, cheap Chinese fuse holders can go bad. And how did you verify the DC-DC converter is working?
Also, I can't see how riding it too early in the season (do you mean in cold weather?) could damage anything. And the charger could not have anything to do with the top speed unless it is not charging at all, in which case the scooter's top speed would be zero (and if there is no low-voltage cutoff protection a ruined battery pack).
And don't call it it a "moped" (I hate that term) It may be Chinese and regarded as unfashionable by many (especially Vectrix owners), but it is still a scooter.
PJD,
Thanks chiming in.
Well, we verified that there is no power to the connector from the controller. Plus, I have extra DC's in case something like this happens. (Because I have had the DC go on my 3500Li and on my 5000Li before.)
I don't mean to be rude but do you have any solutions here or are you just commenting? I am looking for a solution to the problem not questioning of why I am here or how I came to my conclusions.
The wires that go to the DC are coming from the controller and that is why I am mentioning the controller.
As for the speed issue, I rode the scooter 25 miles on a very cool morning, she was going full speed up to that point. I plugged in for about 2+ hours. I put the charger back under the seat and I was not able to go full speed. I thought that maybe I had accidently hit the switch in the charging area but that proved to be wrong. I limbed along for a short distance and I found an inside location that I could put the scooter on the charger again. That is when I found out that the charger had taken a dirt nap. After towing the scooter home, I got another charger and she worked well. However, for the next two years I would have a rare ride where I could not go over 30-35 mph. Then I went over a moon crater in July of 2014 and she didn't like that and stopped totally a couple of miles after that. The rim in fine. But now the speed issue is 80% of the time. I finally got a new ignition set and I am hoping that this will take care of that issue. But I cannot do this without lights.
I am out of breath.
Scootercaptain
So the DC-DC gets it power from wires (what voltage?) that comes from the controller, not the keyswitch circuit? there should be a work-around for this - like connecting the DC-DC to the switched battery-pack power to the controller.
And yes, the speed issue is presumably caused by something bad in the controller. It is fairly rare that controllers can be repaired, but it is probably worth seeing if you can open it up and looking for obvious broken solder joints, wires, or burned components. But most likely you will have to replace it. Probably expensive.
By "ignition set" you mean the key switch, right? From what you are describing, that is probably not the cause of the problem. A bad key switch would simply stop the scooter from running altogether
PJD,
Again, I don't quite know how to say this. I appreciate the comments but I am looking for a solution. I have had a ton of people tell me that there must be another way to run the lights, but nobody has the solution. I know how much it will cost to replace the controller ($500 with shipping) but that is working except for the lights.
I don' know what anyone else rides but I cannot believe that I am the first on this site to experience this issue. Someone please come forward and shed some major light on this for me (pardon the pun)!! With a solution.
Scootercaptain
Our numbers are tiny here. There have been maybe a total of 4 or 5 Xtreme Scooter contributors through the history of this forum. And even if there were hundreds, it is unlikely that any one of them would have had exactly the problem you have. It is understood that in the world of Chinese electric scooter owners, you are on your own. Firstly, you need to find wiring diagrams for the scooter. If you don't have that, you will have to trace wires. You need to have sufficient knowledge in basic electrical and electronic knowledge in order to troubleshoot the problem.
There are systems in my own (more complicated Atmel u-processor driven) scooter that I don't know how they work. But if something fails, I will figure it out.
How many wires come from the DC-DC converter? Three? You need to find a wire with switched pack-voltage-positive - connect the positive pack voltage wire of the dc-dc. Connect pack negative and accessory circuit negative to the DC-DC negative wire. Connect accessory 12V positive to the 12V positive wire of the DC-DC. If you can't find a suitable switched wire (hint - it should be the hot wire to the key switch) then you need to rig your own switch and wire to the packs positive terminal to turn the accessories (lights, horn) on and off.
There is nobody who can give you more specific directions than that without physically being with you.
I have a Efun "D" which is very similar to your scooter and the DC/DC istaking the battery voltage through the ignition switch
Also according to the "schematic" in the XM5000Li manual the DC/DC converter is wired to the battery and the only light controlled from the controller is the stop light.
As for the "low power" mode at low temperature maybe this post could be helpful
http://visforvoltage.org/forum/8566-first-efun-experiences-2010?page=1#comment-73651
Hello Scootercaptain
I think your problem is the controller detects a to high or to low voltage. Either voltage is to high after charge and after a few kilometers the voltage is within range and you can go full speed, or a bad battery pulls down the voltage until it gets a little warm and put out some more voltage.
Hope you will find this helpfull and i was rightt about it.
Bentus666