Locate the diode d109. Check. Model Mur160.
Locate resistor R189. check. Measurement 1.5 ohms 1%.
If any is wrong. change.
We recommend changing the diode d109. By the STTH2R06 model. Is more resistant than Mur160.
Schematic of the charger. Download attachment.
My charger will be damaged. Appears " no out " on the screen. Charging does not start. I hope to fix the charger in the next few days. And add new images.
| Attachment | Size |
|---|---|
 EVPS MOTORCYCLE_4.0.pdf.pdf | 161.33 KB |
Schematic is not attached... I'm very interested in it.
I am sorry. There is no scheme.
These days I have been testing the charger.
I changed the resistance and the diode. The average resistance is 100 to 300 omhs. The diode was short-circuited. The resistor serves as a fuse.
Change the resistance and the diode on the wall.
Connect the charged to the motorcycle.
Put the charger to charge and normal operation.
The next day put a load and exit "no out". The charger does not work.
Looking at some components. Mosfet. I can not find any in bad condition.
I can not find the fault.
The charger is working again.
The dougas firmware spoils the charger. If the dougas firmware is installed. Change frimware for another. Then check the resistance.
If "no out" appears. then check the resistance. If the resistance gives a wrong value. Change the resistance and the diode. The diode looks okay. But it is short-circuited.
A 1.5 ohms resistor of 1 / 4w in series with the diode can be used. In the space where the diode is placed. So you do not have to put smd resistance. Which is difficult to put. In the space smd resistance has to put a bridge. It is important to install the resistor. The resistance is fuse. When there is a diode fault.
I will put photos tomorrow
Incredible! This week I experienced same issue. Shortly after installing Dugas firmware, after two charges the EVPS failed with "NO OUT" error.
Please explain in detail your experience, I can't understand why that firmware kills the charger.
Dougas in a translation failure. I mean dugas.
I have already explained it above.
Locate resistance and diode.
Check resistance. If the resistance is wrong. Change resistance and diode. The diode seems to be fine but it is broken.
A photos of how I have repaired.
In the resistance smd a bridge is put. In the dido the resistance and the diode are set in series.
Another problem I encountered. Some capacitors with the thermo-retractil inflated in the lower part.
After checking All capacitors mark good capacity measurements. All capacitors are spoiled They have lost the electrolyte below. I changed all the capacitors for new ones.
The charger seems to have a design flaw. The metal housing shows high temperature symptoms on top of the two larger transformer. This may be the fault of all capacitors.
Hi, I'm experiencing similar problems. Did you solve with the repair made?
Thank you
Hi, did the repairs as descripted above work? I'm currently experiencing similar problems, don't know which version of software the charger has, though.
Thank you
Is anyone familiar with the "capacitor plague" of the Aughts? A Chinese capacitor manufacturer used the wrong oil in a LOT of capacitors, and they lasted only a few years, in multiple brands and devices (especially home computers) before leaking and splitting. Is it possible that this is manifesting here? Where are those capacitors sourced...?
If it does no out, check diode and resistance.
Capacitors are of different quality. With a duration of 1000 hours or with a duration of 5000 or 10000 hours.
With exceptions. 1000-hour capacitors are mounted. The 1000 hours are at a temperature of 105 ° C.
1000-hour capacitors last for 1000 hours if operated at high temperature. If they operate at low temperature they last much longer.
The evps charger heats much internally. The coils get very hot, there is heat mark on the plate that closes the charger.
The coils heat the capacitors and can fail after 10000 km(6200 miles).
To increase the useful life. Decrease the heat generated. Decrease charging power. 1200w for fast charging. Or 750w for slow charging.
If the bike is safe from rain and wants to maintain maximum power. It can make holes in the sheet of the magazine. In the lower part a small hole, and in the high part puts a 12v computer fan. Being safe from rain. Dirt can enter and damage the charger. I recommend decreasing power.
I would really like someone to explain how the Dugas Engineering Firmware 'kills' a charger. I had an ESD on my Leaf converted bike. It ran all summer long last year. At the end of the season (with absolutely no idea how many charge cycles might be on it), it quit. Connecting the CAN adapter showed the microprocessor still running, just no output. So.... ended up buying a Runke. Again, I have loaded the correct version of Dugas' firmware on it. Time will only tell, but I must have at least 5-10 recharge cycles on it with no issues.
2015 Tesla S90D
2009 Vectrix VX-1 Leaf Conversion
1983 Lambretta Lynx
1980 Vespa P200
2013 VW Jetta Hybrid (gone....)
in my case. After upgrading to dugas firmware.
After the first recharge. Or during the first recharge. The charger will malfunction. "No out" appears on the next charging. And no charge.
Always the resistance and the diode are damaged. When the resistor is changed again and the diode returns. If following that with dugas firmware. After the first recharge. The charger is damaged again with the "no out".
When installing any original firmware of 1000 1350 or 1500w, the charger will not be damaged any more.
Can you tell me which dugas firmware version you are using?
What battery are you using
Can you send a screen with the parameters as it has configured?
I am interested in the dugas firmware if it works well. The charging power of the charger can be adjusted.
I've tried the Dugas firmware again this week. Because you told me that in a few loads works well.
After the first charge the charger will be damaged. Appears "no out" and does not load.
I feel like an idiot for testing the dugas firmware again.
You know Vicens, its stupid comments like this that make me not want to help the VX1 community. You really do a disservice with such ignorant posts. You do realize that ALL Runke SW is Dugas SW. The SW I offer on my site is simply modified SW I wrote when I was at Vectrix. Its configurable so that non OEM Li packs can be used while maintaining all the OEM functions.
My $.02. I e seen a lot of bashing of Dugas' SW. Of course people don't post when things go right. I started using this SW last spring on the ESD version. After a full summer the charger quit. Looking at the archives, didn't surprise me. The ESD appears to have longevity issues. Electronics quit.
Replaced with a Runke I bught on eBay. Installed Dugas SW last September. Have had NO issues since.
Look at the EV forums folks. Chargers quit. Elcons and others.
Dugas has been supporting this bike as a labor of love so that they won't be total orphans. I've personally talked with him. Nice chap, very helpful. So before indicting this SW, how about getting all the facts.
Like I said, my $.02
2015 Tesla S90D
2009 Vectrix VX-1 Leaf Conversion
1983 Lambretta Lynx
1980 Vespa P200
2013 VW Jetta Hybrid (gone....)
I must say, my (second) Runke charger suffered EXACTLY the same fault the first charge after installing the Dugas software.
I'm not blaming the software, it was my decision to install it, but it seems odd this has happened several timeS immediately after the installation......just coincidence? Who knows....it probably needs further investigation.
Simon
Hello Vicens,
thank you for these great infos on repairing the charger. I have repaired an EVPS charger this weekend with the same problem. The diode and the resistor mentioned in the first post of this thread were defective. After replacing these parts, the charger seemed to work for about 10 minutes (while ramping up the charge current). After that the speedometer was fluctuating between 2 and 2.5Amps.
I found, that in my case 4 capacitors starting from C131 with 22nF/800V were blown. Your schematic shows 3 of them with 39nF/800V.
So, if the replaced diode and the resistor will die again and again, consider replacing these capacitors. This way I managed to get the scooter on the road again...
Many thanks from Germany,
Tido