I've had my Leaf-powered 2009 VX-1 for several years now, but this year a problem is developing: it's taking multiple tries to get the "GO" symbol to light and the bike to enter Ready mode. Is this a dirty encoder? If so, how can I clean it with canned air without removing it? If not, any ideas...? Do I need to avoid dirt roads with this bike?
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It is more likely to be a misaligned throttle neutral position. It's easy enough to check and to fix.
From the service manual:-
"Regen Throttle Position Checking Procedure
S-RW-100000
Without PC
Note: This procedure is to be used when a PC is not available. This adjustment MUST be verified using the PC method.
1. Place the ignition key in the ON position and the kill switch in the ON (non-run) position.
2. Squeeze the left side brake lever and observe the speedometer needle (1). This reading is the actual setting of the regen throttle.
3. Continue to squeeze the left side and then squeeze the right side brake lever and observe the speedometer needle. This is the required setting and what the actual reading in step 3 must be set to. If the settings are not the same refer to Regen Throttle Adjustment Procedure."
According to the picture in the service manual copy I have, on my machine (with the main speedo in kph) it should be reading '44'. However, the link below from Vectrixparts shows the kph reading as being 42. The best thing is to get the diagnostic cable and adjust it with the help of the diagnostic software.
For completeness:-
"1. Connect the Diagnostic Hardware. Refer to Diagnostic Hardware Connections.
2. Open the Vectrix diagnostic program, by clicking on the ScooterDiag icon. This will open up the Scooter Diagnostics Summary page.
3. Within the General Information box, click on the “Show Instrument” button. This will open up an instrument cluster page.
4. In the lower center of the page is the throttle setting. This setting color should be in the green, if the color is red the throttle is out of adjustment and must be adjusted. Refer to Regen Throttle Adjustment Procedure.
VX-VS-073: 2008 Vectrix VX-1 Service Manual
Version 1.3 "
Link to effect adjustment, should it be necessary: https://vectrixparts.userecho.com/knowledge-bases/2/articles/676-regen-throttle-sensor-adjustment
Regards, Martin Winlow
Isle of Colonsay, Scotland
evalbum.com/2092
Or sticking brake switch?
Mine was caused by wear on the brake lever pivots and where the plungers of the brake switches make contact, and this caused the brake light to come on occasionally with the lever released.
If your rear brake light comes on when you gently wiggle the brake levers up and down (without actually pulling them) then it could be the cause of the reluctant "GO" symbol problem that you are currently experiencing.
I simply stuck a couple of small pieces of aluminium foil tape over the dimple worn into the brake levers and the problem disappeared.
A small blob of 5 minute epoxy would probably be a better solution. Simply tie the lever back to the handlebar grip (or remove the pivot bolt and take the lever off completely) and then thoroughly degrease the dimple area before slightly roughing it with sandpaper so the epoxy can grip.
A small blob is all that will be required, and it can be easily filed/sanded after it has hardened if it is too large.
Mine is currently exactly the same, 42 when I pull the left lever and 44 when I aslo pull the right one.
When I last adjusted it using the diagnostic program it was set as near to the mid position as I could get it, as shown below:
I needed to adjust mine because the motor would cut out if I twisted the throttle too hard, which was very embarrassing (and incredibly dangerous) when trying to overtake other vehicles whilst going up steep hills.
Alan
Thanks, guys! I have the software - fingers crossed that the laptop on which it's installed still works! - and will check first the brake light activation switches and then, if needed, the throttle position, this coming week. I'm hoping for an easy fix, because I can barely walk these days, and working on machines isn't easy for me.
The problem is back, I'm afraid. I almost got stranded on the road, fruitlessly trying to get the "GO" to appear. Finally, I was rolling the bike into some shade, squeezed both levers to stop it, and...it finally lit. Great relief, but I can't ride again until I fix this. So:
The brake light switches seem to be working perfectly, although I suppose I can't rule out them activating over bumps. Still, how would that prevent the startup sequence from completing...? Do I proceed from here to the throttle calibration? I have the cable (I hope I can find it!) and the software on an OLD laptop that I hope will still boot. First I'll try the 'no PC' test. Any other suggestions?
How did you fix it the last time (...repeat!)?
Regards, Martin Winlow
Isle of Colonsay, Scotland
evalbum.com/2092
It cleared up by itself last time, which was why I hoped I'd be ok taking the scooter out last week. Now I'm afraid it may be progressing. Or it may just be a negative feedback loop: not using the scooter because it might not "GO" may be making it more likely to refuse to "GO."
I did the 'no PC test' and got a needle wobbling between about 42 and 43, followed by what looked like a 44 or maybe a 43. I guess this means I have to dig up the CANBUS cable and do the adjustment with the software...?
I don't think so - your throttle readings appear correct. But certainly the Vectrix diagnostic software would probably tell you what is preventing the 'Go' if it isn't the throttle being out of whack. Have you checked that the brake switch isn't the issue (something I have suffered from in the past as well as others, one of whom has posted here)? Just back up to a glass window or something so you can see if the rear brake light is coming on when you are trying to 'Go'.
Regards, Martin Winlow
Isle of Colonsay, Scotland
evalbum.com/2092
I did check the brake switches with a friend (I could also see them reflected in the garage window). They seem to be working perfectly. So a wobbly reading that is within 1 or 2 of the correct reading in the No PC test is ok? I will look for the CANBUS cable, but it's likely buried in the garage with the bin of Vectrix spares. At least I hope it is...
Did you check if the kickstand was loose? I find my screws come undone annually. I tighten the one that is accessible. When it is too loose it will not register consistently. That and my kill switch died, it gave intermittent results like you describe. I could turn it on (kill the bike) but it was difficult to turn off. Just replaced it with a new one and it's been perfect ever since.
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I also own a 2018 Tesla Model 3 and a 2012 Mitsubishi iMiev
Wouldn't a loose sidestand trigger the warning light as well? I get the sidestand light as usual during the boot check, but not when it refuses to GO. As for the kill switch, I've never been touching that when it finally got to GO...
Well, I finally got the CAN to USB cable dug out of my garage, and I may try to diagnose the issue this evening. Now, can someone point me to the relevant section in the manual (by link, as my copy got lost thanks to a Microsoft "update) or by pasting it here? I've had the scooter diagnostic program running before, but I'm not sure I've ever actually used the cable with it.
I'm trying to find the section of the service manual that deals with connecting and using the CANBUS adapter cable and scooter diagnostic program. Please, help me!
Does the ready symbol come on reliably?
solid on? or flashing?
If the ready signal is on, the a can adapter may not help you (though useful to load the latest dugas firmware)
a dusty encoder won't stop you from going into go, it will just run badly
so both brakes extinguish the brake light when they're not being pulled?
on my bike I have to actively push the right brake into the off position before pulling into the on position
Daily Ride:
2007 Vectrix, modified with 42 x Thundersky 60Ah in July 2010. Done 194'000km
What does the Ready symbol look like? Is it the word "Ready"? I believe that everything is normal except for "GO" not coming on easily. Yes, both brake light switches operate normally - no pulling needed.