This is my second ebike kit.
This one is same as the first one on my other bike except this one is on 24" front wheel of a trike setup.
5305 motor with 4840 controller. Batt is 48V 20 AH. After setup, have only rode this bike two times with no problem.
Yesterday went to ride and nothing. The wheel motor will try to start then nothing.
If you lift the front wheel off the ground and press the thumb throttle, the wheel will turn but it vibrates the whole bike real bad and does not make full speed. After a few seconds it stops like the power has been cut. If you press the throttle to full power it also cuts the power off.
Checked all wiring, all connections. Batt has 53v. Do you think this is a motor or controller issue?
Place I bought is not open until Monday so I will call them then.
Thanks...
Does that hub motor have Hall sensors?
Sounds like one of those has gone!
I don't know yet. I read something about a sensorless motor...
I am going to get the serial/part numbers off the motor and controller and call tomorrow.
I will reply again afterwards...bummer to have a problem after 2 rides...
Hall sensors are prone to failure. Sensorless controllers sound better in theory!
Heres a thread from ES about a sensorless controller, and a few of the posters specifically mention using it on a 5305 after Hall sensor failure!
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=17191&start=0
Carefully check the motor wires! Be SURE that the axle cannot rotate, as it will allow wiring to be damaged/destroyed if it does! You may have a damaged/loose wire to one of the "Hall Sensors"-these wires are smaller than the main motor wires, and more easily damaged. Best bet for "Hub Motors" is to install in STEEL forks, with a "Torque Arm", to prevent/reduce chances of axle rotation.-Bob
Robert M. Curry
The tricycle has steel fork and the motor came with torque arm...wiring looks good and axle has not rotated...good points to keep out front to everyone though. Thanks...
It does seem like one less thing to go wrong..
I wonder what the equivalent sensorless motor would be to replace a Crystalyte 5303 brute??
Well the good thing is you can use a sensorless controller with a motor that still has hall sensors (working or not) - as they are just not connected!
So you wouldn't have to change your motor.
Did you speak to who ever you bought it from? Are they going to fix it for free as you've only had it such a short time?
You were right! One of the hall sensors went out in the 5305 motor. The company I got it from replaced the sensor and shipped it back the same day they received it. Soooo...I will install it when it arrives and be good to go.
They said this is a rare occurrance but that it does happen sometimes. I'll be glad when the sensorless motors arrive.