trouble with BMC kit

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D-Skor
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Last seen: 8 years 2 months ago
Joined: Monday, April 18, 2011 - 07:17
Points: 11
trouble with BMC kit

Hello, I'm new.

I have a problem with my ebike. One day it worked, the next morning I got on, exited my garage, pushed off, advanced the throttle and Nothing Happened. This was coincidentally the very day I promised to demonstrate it before the Society of Environmental Scientists at the University of Massachusetts, in Lowell MA. I wasn't happy, and neither were they.

checked voltage on bank: 37 volts, "power" light comes on on the twist grip when batteries are plugged in to controller. Pedaled around a bit with the throttle advanced a fair bit: controller got warm, but the bike didn't move under its own power. I built the ebike to replace a gas scooter that was broken and later stolen, and had a distrust of gas kit's reliability.
I dont think I could afford a new hub motor: I am an unemployed college student whose funding for this sort of thing comes from birthday/christmas and parental allowance.

the weather has gotten warmer since this happened, and I want to ride it with a functioning motor; it is a real pain getting those huge SLAs up any hill.
I really hope it can be fixed without a new hub motor.

The bike build is as follows:
Frame: Del Sol 26 inch heavy comfort cruiser
Motor: BMC v1 400 watt geared hub motor, rear wheel kit with internal freewheel.
Controller: stock no name waterproof 36 volt 25 amp; came with kit
Throttle: 48 volt half twist grip.
Battery: 36 volt AGM, 26 AH Powersonic.
Charger: Mastech universal industrial charger. a silicon rectifier smart charger. multichemistry, voltage adjustable from 6 v to 48 v, rate adjudtable from 2 amp to 10 amp.

D-Skor
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 2 months ago
Joined: Monday, April 18, 2011 - 07:17
Points: 11
Re: trouble with BMC kit

upon further examination:
battery: 39.1 volts
continuity light on twist throttle: on
motor: .5 ohm on all three phases.

I hooked up all wires other than the main cables from the controller to the motor, including leaving the synchronizing hall effect wires plugged in normally. I then hooked the power out wires of the controller to the voltmeter and advanced the throttle. zero volts. tried the other two phases; also no voltage.

I assume this means my controller is fried. Is this a reasonable assumption or should I look deeper?

I have also spoken to a graduate student at UMass Lowell regarding the problem. He said controllers sometimes quit without warning.

does anyone know of a better 36 volt bmc compatible brushless controller that can be had for under 100 dollars. not looking for anything fancy or ultracompact or super high amps; just something I can depend on to get me from point A to point B.

Thank you,
Dan

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