BionX hardware help

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DT98
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Last seen: 11 years 9 months ago
Joined: Saturday, April 3, 2010 - 19:56
Points: 25
BionX hardware help

I am helping my uncle with his Ohm e-bike which comes with BionX equipment and I'm having trouble. I only other experience is with a Crystalite setup.

The motor is on the rear wheel and the axle twisted out on one side yesterday. He stopped riding immediately and I found the wiring wrapped less than one time around the axle. I think the wiring will be ok.

I noticed:
The axle is smaller diameter than the C-lite axle but what really suprised me is that the axle was not slotted. The BionX axle is round and there was a thick washer like thing on the axle with a off-set nub thing on it that looks like it is supposed to prevent the axle from turning around.

The problem is the Ohm frame is aluminum and IMO is pretty soft. There are thread marks in the rear drop out and the nut holding the axle has cut into the frame.

I'm kinda bummed out about the whole thing because I don't see how this setup will ever tighten up again enough to keep the axle from twisting out again...without some "creative engineering" and jury rigging on the frame.

My uncle is 70+ and rides the bike very, very gently and he weighc about 160 lb.

The BionX is probably a great motor/setup but I am very disappointed in the Ohm e-bike frame and mounting setup.

How does the BionX kit mount up on bikes? Is the axle slotted for the dropout or is it a totally round axle? Do you use it on aluminum frames?

Thanks for any help/suggestions.
DT98

JLGRAU
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Joined: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 - 02:39
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Re: BionX hardware help

I've never seen a Bionx, but it seems that your best bet would be to sell the present bike and buy a bike with
a sturdier frame. You can also try a rear torque arm. Spinouts will eventually lead to torn wires which can lead to a shorted controller. I have a an alum. frame (front hub motor) but the forks are steel/alloy.

DT98
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Last seen: 11 years 9 months ago
Joined: Saturday, April 3, 2010 - 19:56
Points: 25
Re: BionX hardware help

Believe me...if I had seen the motor mounting setup I would have never bought this bike...groan...

JLGRAU
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Last seen: 4 years 5 months ago
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Re: BionX hardware help

no offense, but price on new Bionx and ohm stuff is pretty high. Europa, too. But the resell is usually quite low. I have a basic 7 speed bike with an Aotema Brushless sensorless 26" kit retro-fitted. Bike and kit can be resold separately or together. It's comparable to a Chrystlye or a 9 Continents.

bxcycleman
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Last seen: 7 years 1 month ago
Joined: Friday, January 16, 2009 - 11:45
Points: 54
Re: BionX hardware help

I have an aluminum frame as well. Yes the axle will twist loose, if the axle nuts within the dropout yoke aren't blocked tight. The spacer you are speaking of, which has the key for the dropout, must be settled into place, while the axle is being cinched tight, and while the slot in the axle is perpendicular to the ground. The spacer can be replaced, but that might not cure the problem. More than likely, there is some play in the yoke, between the dropouts, on the axle. Even .2mm looseness will cause the axle to twist. The spacing out ward must be very tight, then the locknuts outside must be cinched down, tight. This is the only way your wheel will mount correctly. In order to do this job, you will need 2-15mm wrenches for the axle bolts, one 15mm spanner to snug up the inside bolt on the axle, one large blade screw driver to help coax the slot back to perpendicular, one steering wheel puller or Bionx spacer puller, one 17mm wrench for puller, a little time and patience.
I'd also consider doing a "stop-a-flat" treatment to the tire and checking the dish on the wheel before remounting, because it's a headache to get it right. Also, mount your wheel by tightening the gear side first, leaving the other side to drift a little until everything is ready to start cinching down. I learned this handy trick from a UTube video.
As for the spacer which is eating your aluminum frame, you might try filling the teeth in to prevent such a deep bite, or maybe even more aluminum material will help. Once the spacer is tight, the key will hold the placement in the dropout.
Hope this helps.

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