Yes, it is normal that such shock absorbers have damping when they are moved. Just a spring will start to oscillate once it was disturbed, which is why your Thunder was so nervous up front with the old shocks. Now with noticable damping in there oscillations after a disturbance quickly subside, at the cost of a slighty higher initial impulse.
Here is a little comparison of how the orignal 10mm² power wiring (on the right) compares to the 35mm² (left half) that my Thunder has now :-)
2017 Zero S ZF6.5 11kW, erider Thunder 5kW
Looks much better! Will propably save you some energy.
Yes I know that much about shock absorbers, the thing I don´t know is what the new ones only dampens "on the way up", not down.
It could be that I don´t have enough muscle to push it down fast enough though...
Ah, O.K., your theory about muscle power may be right in this case :-) However, I was theorizing in my head yesterday while I contemplated my answer about how inward and outward damping should be for ideal road holding (i.e. trying to keep the tire as firmly on the ground as possible, not matter if the spring is compressed or released) and how it should be for best comfort.
I think this is what you were asking about?
In theory good road holding should be achieved by strong inward damping and little outward damping, thus pressing the tire harder towards the ground while going up a bump, and pushing it back down to the road real fast after the bump. But it would jolt the rider pretty hard at every bump.
Better comfort should be achieved with what you perceived on the new shocks, little inward damping and stronger outward damping. Thus the tire would willingly get out of the way of a bump, but drop back to the road a little slower after the bump. But in both instances road holding would suffer.
Both directions under- or undamped will lead to bucking, oscillation, juddering. Which is what the new shocks should cure.
It will be interesting to hear more about your real live road testing :-)
Yes! I been thinking along there lines aswell.
I do think the the optimal damper should be damping both in and out and be softer in the beginning and harder the longer it get pushed in, which of course is the whole point of the spring.
I will test some more in the coming days, by the way I past the 1000km mark the other day, not much but I tend to use the car to my work mostly (it´s been raining more or less constantly since the beginning of June....)
Sounds nice Johnny. Looking forward to getting mine on as well :-)
Today I drove 30km at different speeds and yes the overall feeling is that the scooter rides much smoother.
Speedbumps and uneven road f.ex. feel less violent.
The only thing that does not feel good is the light "bouncing" at a steady speed of 95km/h (GPS) and above, but this can be because of the tire beeing a bit uneven or a not perfectly balanced wheel.
But in all it is a much nicer ride.
I just wanted ta say that I have now driven about 50 kms with the new front shocks, and what a difference !
Potholes and sudden bumps is just smoothed out, wherea before there would be a sharp push and a loud knack !
Unfortunately the vibration is still there, and even though it is smoother, I still feel it especially during hard braking - but at least it doesnt feel like it is amplified.
I think that the vibrations in the end probably derives from at too weak contruction where the forks meet the chassis, and even if you can make it better it is very hard to adjust the system, including how tight the nut for the steering bearing should be etc to have it really good.
But I am much more pleased with the comfort and releifed that the hazardous amplification of the vibration when doing hard breaking has all but vanished
I have found out what most of the vibrations comes from when braking, the brake disc is not perfectly linear.
After grinding down one of the 3 "attachment points" it brakes more smoothly.
I have also told Mountain about this and asked him to get a better manufacturer of rims.
@ branng (from the 8000W Thread): Here is a pic of my pristine Thunder (forget about about the "bolt"-part, that is what Erider Australia adds) compartment:
It is fairly spacious, but a full face helmet may "just" not allow the seat to close. A small size full face helmet might barely fit in height-wise. The blob-shaped lid on the bottom can be replaced with a flat piece of plastic, wood or sheet metal, which also helps in getting some additional "altitude" into the compartment.
My full face helmet with integrated sun visor is a little higher than a normal full face helmet and thus the seat does not even come close to closing with the helmet inside.
Thanks MERoller! That's super useful and good of you to take the time to snap a photo of the under-seat storage compartment.
Am still sitting on the fence at the moment; my two primary concerns being the ability to fit my helmet into the storage compartment on the ThunderBolt and the total size of the scooter itself.
For logged-in members only here my take on a stable top case rack made of stainless steel:
I still have two available, though at a price... :-(
congratulation that E-sprit come back again ,see attached，now upgrade to be 6kw with 500A phase current and climb stair without problem
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