Just an update if you need these parts
You can order fork-seals by their dimensions.
The specs of the VX-1 forkseals (info direct from the factory)
Fork Oil seal: inner 35mm - out47mm - th10
dust seal 35 - 47,4 - 46 -14 (not quite sure how to read that part.)
I've ordered Fork-Seals for my bike and they have arrived.
Next week I have to strip the front end as the fork oil leak has ruined my front pads and ability to stop using the front brake. Thank god for re-gen lol !
Been there, done that, horrible feeling when braking for the first time after such a mishap. With me it was still with my old ICE Aprilia Scooter. In order to squeeze it as well as possible into my garage during the Christmas break (I ride year-round) I did not put it on the main stand, but simply leaned it against the garage wall, standing firmly on both wheels (on the main stand the front wheel was lifted off the ground). When I took off for the first time in the second week of January I noticed a a small dark spot under the front wheel but gave this no second thought nor look. But when I pulled the front brake for the first time to slow down for turning into another road just about nothing happened?! I braked harder and particularly the rear brake did the decceleration work, the front did not brake much more even at full braking lever compression.
I turned right around back home to investigate and clear away what oil I could from the brake disk, pads and fork, and rode to work very carefully. I bought a brake cleaning spray with which I could restore front braking to at least 75% and drove it to my dealer ASAP for changing the seals and fork oil.
What I do not understand is how come this danger is not taken into account by fork and brake manufacturers. There is no reason whatsowever why the caliper fixing to the fork could not be made such that leaking oil running down the fork simply has no inclination do run onto the calipers and drown the brake pads. That would actually be quite easy to do. But this happens even to a Marzocchi fork???!!!
Regen can be a real blessing in such a case, very true :-)
My rides:
2017 Zero S ZF6.5 11kW, erider Thunder 5kW
So how do you check and service the front forks before it disables your front brake?
This information may be used entirely at your own risk.
There is always a way if there is no other way!
I would guess there should be a servicing schedule that states when the time comes for fork oil and seal replacement or at least checking?
With my ride at least the shocks are to be checked at every servcec (every 8000km / 5000 miles or once a year, whatever comes first), and that implies that if oil leakage or at least visual seal damage is detected a replacement will be necessary.
In my former Aprilai ICE scooter that work was to be conducted every 12000km: "check, clean, adjust, lubricate and when necessary replace" was the classification for this service item.
So in normal usage an interval between 8000 and 12000km / 5000 and 7500 miles should be sufficient for this checkup and/or replacement.
However, if the bike is often used on dirt roads or in sandy conditions, or like me is in use summer and winter with salt and sand on the roads that should be checked more often :-)
The servicing / replacement itself I would leave to an experienced motorcycle mechanic...
My rides:
2017 Zero S ZF6.5 11kW, erider Thunder 5kW
Most of the time - checking forkseals just means taking a quick look at the stanchions and making sure they are clean - not oily and not pitted with rust. In all the years of bike riding i have only had to change forkseals a handful of times.
However for those of you who might like to take on the job here are the instructions that were emailed to me direct from the factory in poland
Recommended oil change / refill procedure:
Remove the front wheel.
Remove the front fender.
Remove the front disc brake caliper, but do not remove the hydraulic line from the caliper.
Remove the snap ring from the top of the shock.
Remove the 2 shock clinch bolts (2) and remove the shock by sliding it out of the clamp.
- remove dust seal + oil seal
- remove spring
- drain all oil and clean tube
- install new oil seal
- insert fork tube without spring
- push fully down the tube
- fill oil until level reach 10cm distance from top of tube
- press and pull few times tube for allow air to escape from hydraulic circuit
- refill until level reach 10cm distance from tube top
- pull all tube up
- install spring (part of spring with tighter spring coils must be placed down)
- close tube cap
- install new dust seal
Slide the shock into the clamp and install the clinch bolts
Install the snap ring
Install the front brake caliper (Caliper bolts 25Nm)
Install the front fender
Install the front wheel. (Axle 25Nm, Clinch Bolt 10Nm)
Tighten Front shock clinch bolts (26 Nm)
Great, thanks...
here is a pic of a disassembled front fork.
How is the spring removed? so that one can insert the tube all the way and fill with oil per the instructions...
or am I on the wrong path here??
What weight oil is recommended for the front shocks? How about the rear? What amount in ml? Thanks!
The only specs I could find so far are for a Marzocchi fork, Spectro brand, SAE 7.5 viscosity. But that did not come from a Vectrix soirce, so not sure if that is what the Marzocchi fork in the Vectrix uses too. I don't even know which model fork it is...
There isn't a spring inside the polished tube?
Does anyone know of a replacement rear shock that is longer? Or what are the exact specs of the OEM, so I can research myself?
Here's why: for daily riding I like the softest or second softest setting on the rear OEM shocks - gives a cushier ride as it uses more of the shock's available travel range. However, me being 190lb naked, I compress half that range by just sitting on the bike stationary. That brings down the already low seating position already lower for me. Plus the suspension is a bit too soft for spirited riding. For a test, I rode on the hardest (most preload, springs compressed fully). I really like the higher seating position (by 2" almost) and the fact that the bike does not squat as much in corners (I've already scraped both sides due to low clearance on softer suspension settings in corners, where I don't think it would have happened on a harder setting). But on the stiffest setting there is barely any travel range left in the rear suspension and the springs are too stiff for comfort. So, I'd like to get longer shocks that would keep the rear high but still offer as wide range of travel as the OEM do without preload and be soft enough to be comfortable on bumpy roads. Suggestions?
Edit: I suppose the spring will need to change too...
Rear shock is 340mm eye to eye. Its a common size, and I think you can get longer ones.
Common sizes - 320, 340, 380, 400.
One of mine is leaking at the moment, which makes for interesting ride quality.