I purchased an E+ Electric bike last September. I rode it 5 times before it was time to put it away for the winter. The bike was stored in the basement. Checked the battery early February and was somewhat charged. Brought the bike up 3 weeks ago and charged it. Unfortunately, the E+ QUE! master controller is blank. Electric Motion Systems is no longer so I can't go there for help. The E+ distributor we purchased the bike from died suddenly at Christmas. No help there. I have tried researching and e-mailing to see if someone can help with the recovery of the controller. Have called and spoken to many other dealers of the E+ bike who also have no clue. Please, please, please can someone help me with this problem or point me in the right direction. I am sick at the thought that I can not ride the bike again after all the money spent. While it was working it was amazing. If anyone can help I would be forever grateful!!
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One of the company's former employees is still supporting the product. His name is Rick. His number is 703 589 7182.
Thank you so very much for your information regarding the E+ bike. You have made my day! I spoke to Rick last year.
Once again, thanks!
I own 1000W Eplus.
Tell us how does it worked out with Rick.
I understand you made full reset by disconnecting power and data connectors and connectede back.
I will let you know what happens. Haven't called Rick yet because of long weekend in the U.S. Will try him tomorrow. I already tried unplugging everything and replugging it in. No success. Spoke to someone in California who said that we will most likely have to have an adjustment made to the battery. I too have a 1000W E+ bike.
Will keep you posted.
1,Does the light and horn works?
2,1)if they doesn't work,check the battery capacity,it shuts down during winter.
2) if they works normally,check the all the cables and pins connecting the controller.
3,if the battery is ok,check all the cables and pins of the scooter.
4,if the cables and pins r ok,you need to change a new controller or motor
aima,high-tech,high-quality eletric vehicles designer&maker.
Have you spoken to Rick yet?
No contact yet with Rick. Will let you know as soon as I do. Getting very anxious.
If you cannot have helP from him so we can work together to solve problem
Microcomtroller in front hub which is PIC18F went into sleep mode most probably
You must reset PIC18F by simply disconnecting 5V supply to it
Or your battery voltage dropped so much that battery electronics went into sleep/protect mode
You can do it only inside hub by disconnecting 30cells string so PIC18 will lose power and reset
Thank you. I will give it a try and let you know.
Be very careful not to do short on any of 30 cells.
USE masking tape.
You need to pick up one jumper /black wire/ and disconnect it on one side to open 30 cell string for like 15 minutes.
For this you will need Allan key of right size around 2mm or 3/32 someting like that-my Allan does not have marking on it..
Before even unscrewing bolt tape carefully around this bolt and down with masking tape to prevent it falling inside.
Spark on connecting back is normal /capacitors charging/ what is important:
Contact should be made if possible once and bolt screwed with NO BOUNCING,
one more thing
WRAP ALLAN KEY WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE.
you could buy a new controller. There is a variety out there.
Best place for that is Endless sphere
They have a wiki too.
Do some reading on Eplus before posting
Your post doesn't make sense
have you spoken to Rick yet?
Do you need advice on how to open battery hub??
I forgot to add that you need special pliers to get snap ring off centre axle.
You see I am very interested if there is any support for E+ at this point or are we on our own.
I have received an e-mail from Ric. It said the following:
It seams like the battery has gone into a safety state. It will not charger nor will it turn on, due to the protection side of the battery and not damage the cells or memory any further. I charge $250 to look over the battery and recharge it. At this point i will be able to see how much capacity the battery stills had and if any of the cells need to be changed out.
If you wish to proceed please email be back and i will give you a shipping address and a list of what i need.
Ric's phone number is 703-589-7182 and his e-mail address is ric.ruggiero [at] yahoo.com
I am going to try what you told me to do first. If that doesn't work and I am going to call Ric and go on a road trip. I don't trust couriers.
I will post and let you know if what you suggested works.
Thanks for all your help!
I have removed the C clamp and the screws, my question is what do I do with the bearing? I can't seem to get the lid off because of the silver bearing. Any suggestions?
You have to remove snap ring with pliers
Do you call snap ring C clamp?
After removing black snap ring just prey cover with flat tip screwdriver
IS this number still working?
JS Electric Co is the type of progressive Electrical Contractor that consistently demonstrates quality workmanship in the commercial and residential markets.
Maybe a little late but better late than never. I did not see anyone mention the reset procedure I use.
Unplug the controller cables (2) and remove controller.
Disconnect the comm connector at the front hub battery.
Plug the hub end of that comm cable into the controller - it will only go in one port)
Turn on the controller and let it boot.
Turn off the controller and re-install everything.
This works every time for me.
I have the same problem with my E+bike. It lasted me 2 years without a problem, I barley rode it 10 hours or so, treated it like gold... This year, 2013 I tried to charge it up but the controller was dead.
I have tried the master controller reset procedure and it did not work.
Would an electric bicycle repair shop be able to solve the problem?
I would go to this post on the Endless Sphere forum and post your issue in this thread. Seems to me, if the battery is completely dead or below a certain voltage, then a reset is not possible until the battery has sufficient Voltage. Miro might be able to help with all the controller and battery research he has done.
thank you for reffering to my posts.
when Eplus battery is not kept on charger voltage would drop so low that electronics would block from charging and charger would not recognise battery.
But before more details, write here that you still interested.
More than once person who posted about problem just went away not responding to my posts.
Today's date. 7/25/13
Hello. As of today I still am very much interested in repairing my E+ bike.
Can you help me, please?
to start with .
You cannot solve it without opening front hub.
You must bring voltage of string of 30 cells in series up so battery electronics can unlock and allow charger to normally charge.
The only way is to charge a bit string of 30 cells directly with battery electronics completely disconnected from string of 30 cells.
So you open the hub , disconnect string of 30 cells from electronics and connect plus/minus of charger directly to string of 30 cells.
Once yo disconnect string from electronics you can measure voltage, I bet it is below 30 volts.
Obviously there is always a danger of causing short.
Before touching anything,
Get normal masking tape and mask whatever metal terminals and other metal parts generously.
You will need Allan key to disconnect string of 30 cells.
It MUST be fully wrap in electric tape except very tip.
You must locate where battery/string of 30 cells/ connects to electroncs which is quite obvious for electr. person.
WHEN YOU DO ANYTHING ON ONE TERMINAL /plus or minus/ OTHER TERMINAL MUST BE COVERED BY MASKING TAPE.
I, too, am trying to resurrect a discharged hub battery. The complete battery set measures a little over 2 volts. I have tried the directly-connecting-the-controller and the disconnecting-the-battery-for-15-minutes reset procedures without success. I am now ready to try connecting the charger directly to the cells. Is it necessary to connect the third (blue) wire from the charger to anything inside the hub when doing this? What is the blue wire for?
With a total pack Voltage of 2 Volts, I'd not hold out much hope to revive it. That's less than .1 Volts per cell. But give it a try. You've got nothing to lose. Just probe your charger leads with a Voltmeter to find the two charger wires that produce the 42 or more Volts, note polarity and use those two.
on plus side off all string count 5 cells , again from plus toward minus , on fifth cell's /again counting from plus terminal/ minus terminal connect 100ohms-300ohms resistor to sense thin wire of charger.
Should work , is working right now on my table.
on the second thought,
if your string voltage is just 2V so I have no idea how charger will react to such very low voltage, hopfully it will not red blink.
Almost for sure some of your cells reads zero.
If 30S string reads just 2V you almost for sure have reverse cells in such string and you will have try to revive the individually.
Are you sure it is not 20V?
Also watch cells for temperature, charger will not terminate charge on increased temp, because thermistor is not connected.
Very important criteria for NMH charge termination is increased temp over time interval.
Disconnect once cells are on average 1.3V no more, remember you are just increasing voltage enough so slightly so you can reassembly , connect battery electronics back and start charging normally.
Do not try to charge fully on such makeshift curcuit.