Lastly I found that replacing the rear bearing with a sealed one is detrimental to the systems because the sealed bearing has too much friction / stiction to overcome. For requirements of low downtime, I swapped boxes rather than remove the seals which i will do when replacing other bearings etc.
You are 100% correct on that. I replaced my large bearing and seal last night. THere was no apparent play in the bearing but the bike has done 20,000 miles and so I thought I'd change it with all the other bearings. The sealed bearing which I got was much harder to rotate. I'm not sure I'd be able to feel it, riding along, but it certainly had a lot more friction. I just prised out the seals with a knife point. The bearing spun very much more easily.
One thing I did notice. Although my gearbox is quiet anyway (by comparison with some that I've read of), and the old bearing showed no obvious play, the box was quieter after replacing the bearing. Also, I soaked the old bearing in solvent and got all the oil out..... it's surprising how much it was worn. It feels rough, a bit gritty and noisy. All of that was disguised by the oil, of course. So, I do think that, on higher mileage bikes, it's probably advisable to replace this bearing and seal as a matter of course.
This is list of seals and bearings, may need corrections/improvements, hope it helps.
JUNTA TORICA 195X3 - TAPA GEAR BOX
JUNTA SPI 30X40X70 NBR
JUNTA SPI 82X100X8 NBR
JUNTA SPI 20X36X7 NBR (EJE MOTOR)
Cojinete 61915-NKE (GEARBOX SOP RUEDA)
Cojinete NU206-ECP-SKF (gerabox Soporte Eje)
Yep - look at this.
The "simmer-ring" might be these one?
From: AMERICAN SEAL & GASKET, INC. part No. 82 X 100-8 TC NBR (the seal next to the motor)
From: AMERICAN SEAL & GASKET, INC. part No. 30 X 40-7 TC NBR (the seal next to the break disk)
The bearings should be:
From: SKF part No. 61915 (the bearing next to the motor)
From: SKF part No. NU 206 ECJ* (the bearing next to the break-disk)
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