Motor controller blowed, warning.

on a related note to get factory fuses.... you can order them directly from the fuse factory GloryTech...
These are the 40A fuses, but it's not in their catalog. But the part number is similar to their 30A --> http://www.glorytech.net/_files/product_pic/1331.pdf
Email: lina [at] glorytech.net and also davies [at] glorytech.net to order. They are only 90 cents each (about) but shipping will be pricey

Today my new repaired motor controller form vectrixparts arrived and i already installed it. But now i have a new problem, which definity not existed with my blown controller (which i fixed with copper wire): If i want to go forward the wheel spins backwards and the "R" is shown in the controls!!!!
What can now be wrong with my scooter? Can i really have so much bad luck?

I again looked at the wires from the battery to the controller and also checked the wires from controller to the motor and everything is mounted correctly. If i do the phase test the wheel spins forward!

Please help, I'm going mad...

Oh Hans, thank you so much!!!!! The "Check Phase Rotation" was the one i already tried, but i now tried the "Calibrate" and after that "write" and now it works!!!

This is a picture of a motorcontroller recently purchased at vectrix. The fuses have been upgraded, now if one blows it can be easily replaced.

Even though making fuses easily replacable is a good thing, blowing fuses as such isn't: either the fuse is sized too small, or there is something fundamentally wrong with the motor controller. I wonder if those considerations were also made by Vectrix Parts? Did these fuses use to be 40A before also, or less?

I think they were 40A each before too. Is there high voltage across these fuses? If so, I hope these new fuses are high-voltage fuses, not the 12V rated automotive variety. I recall a video somewhere that demonstrated a very spectacular failure of a low-voltage fuse used in a high voltage situation (even though the current rating and load was the same)...

The 40A cap fuses are there to prevent a fire in the event the ceramic caps fail short circuit

the ceramic caps failing short circuit does happen on occasion, but can ignite without blowing the main 200A/125A fuse (depending upon age of the board).

With the larger 200A fuse, it is not un-common for all 4x 40A cap fuses to blow instead of the main fuse in the event of the IGBT failing short circuit

In both scenarios, the voltage across the fuse is full battery voltage (~120v) at the full short circuit fault current (~1000A)

If you are using a fuse outside of it's ratings, as is the case with those automotive fuses, test them in the fault mode. I would use a contactor such as a kilovac EV200 to test with.

In general, where a fuse fails to quench an arc at the time of the fuse wire melting, the arc will continue to burn until 1mm/volt separation is achieved.
Most likely the main fuse would blow before this happens, but not before ignition of the surrounding plastic casing and circuit takes place

I think they were 40A each before too. Is there high voltage across these fuses? If so, I hope these new fuses are high-voltage fuses, not the 12V rated automotive variety. I recall a video somewhere that demonstrated a very spectacular failure of a low-voltage fuse used in a high voltage situation (even though the current rating and load was the same)...

That was EV West - here is the video link: High Voltage Fuse Short Circuit Testing with EV West and Electric Vehicle Battery Pack

I have a new motor controller anf esd charger if anyone needs.