Almost ready for round 2, input on hub motors?

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Abneycat
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Almost ready for round 2, input on hub motors?

So, almost got this all worked out. The second bike will feature this Fuji 2 Diamond, likely a Crystalyte 4-series rear hub motor, and a 48v/8ah Lithium power source.

//visforvoltage.org/files/u651/tmpphpW47bnj.jpg)

I've looked around at different motors, mostly based on weight. Liked the weight and features of the BionX but the proprietary battery is a deal breaker. The Nano also looked neat but they only offer it in front drive. Are there any other motor options out there that offer a lower weight, non-proprietary battery and rear drive?

Otherwise, i'm likely going with the rear drive Crystalyte 407 disk brake model, there are mounts for disks on the bike which is a plus.
Will be ordering next Friday!

Would you ride it? Would you change it? Anything? The one thing I want to keep constant is the bike. No, its not an ideal frame and that will change in the long term, but for now its going to stay the candidate.

Any input on the direction taken with this one would be appreciated.

davew
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Re: Almost ready for round 2, input on hub motors?

I know another poster went on at some length about putting a battery on a seat-post rack. The LiIon will be lighter, but still at least 11 pounds or so. Could you get a more traditional rack that attaches at the seat and the rear forks?

It looks like a BionX kit wouldn't fit on that bike, but I would not write off a company because of a proprietary battery. I have a WE with a standard battery back and a BionX. The WE is on it's third pack (a combination of wear and stupidity), and the original Bionx LiIon pack still running strong. I really like the shell around the Bionx battery pack. It attaches the batteries firmly to the bike and provides a nice weather resistant package. It also detaches quickly for indoor charging if the outside is too hot or too cold.

I am not a fan of battery bags. The triangle packages that fit in the triangle frame (which you don't have) are better, but the rectangular packages that sit on the rear rack are problematic. I lost one pack when the zipper worked loose and the pack bounced off the sidewalk. I lost another pack when the batteries, after sliding around loose in the pack for a year or so, finally worked a couple of wires loose and ZAPPO!

If you do go the bag route I strongly recommend cutting four small holes in the bottom of the bag and attaching the batteries directly to the rack. Having the bag attached to the bike and the batteries free to roam with all those wires and fuses and stuff is a recipe for a Future Exciting Moment.

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friggerand
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Re: Almost ready for round 2, input on hub motors?

I agree....batteries sitting in a bag on a rear rack isn't the most ideal setup....but in many cases, it's the only real option for people. Personally, I don't know why nore people don't use or make battery boxes. My batteries are always securely sealed into a hard plastic casing...the batteries don't move around inside and the hard shell case is easily secured down...no zippers or fabric to tear, etc.

The setup idea sounds fine otherwise to me. Crystalyte makes a good product...or at least their Phoenix line is excellent and oh soo versatile... I've used different model Phoenix motors with various battery and controller options to get wildy different results... From the 40kmh top speed hill climber with the acceleration of a rocket....to a nice 50kmh cruiser, to a slower accelerating but downright scary too fast for the brakes 70+kmh.... I've even found a combination that keeps the top speed within legal limits with really good bottom end pull...
Of course, when the application is range over speed... I don't use the Phoenix motors as they suck too much juice. Anyway, I think I've gotten horribly off-topic.

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Abneycat
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Re: Almost ready for round 2, input on hub motors?

Well, i've not got many other battery mounting options. The only other one which i've considered as feasible is mounting the battery underneath the bike where the pump mounts are, but that would simply give liability for the battery to be covered in mud, or utterly decimated should something solid not clear that area for some reason. The pack which is shipping in weighs 9lbs, under half the weight limit for that Blackburn rack. Down the road, i'm also looking at another bike for permanent residence of that motor. Simply like to use this one for actual mountain biking too much!

Has anyone looked at the Dahon Cadenza, or the Xtracycle kits? I'm thinking about rebuilding my old Stumpjumper frame with a free radical add on, the Cadenza does look like it'd be nice and practical with a little modification too..

I'm also now considering going back to choosing the 408 instead. Some of the people i've spoken with have pretty much said the 407 is a lemon. Didn't want to pick a Phoenix as i'm trying to keep the weight on this one low and the range a little higher, in fact i'd rather be using a BionX or a nano if either of those options were going to work..

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efreak
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Re: Almost ready for round 2, input on hub motors?

i have seen also contemplating on a a similir build like yours to swing the bracket a 180* egrees forward and secured it to the main body some how have your pack in the middle that is going to be the way to go for me batter handling and better weight distribution

my cents

efreak

Abneycat
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Re: Almost ready for round 2, input on hub motors?

efreak, i've actually seen a bike of this style done exactly like that, the guy had even used a modified rack to hold the pack from below while a Rhodetube held it from above. It just didn't appeal to me from my personal point of view, because I like to use that space for stand-over when stopped. A good idea though.

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El Duderino
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Re: Almost ready for round 2, input on hub motors?

I've just picked up an '07 Cadenza with a BionX PL-350 and it's addictive to say the least. Too bad the weather here is so atrocious right now.

IbeRKT
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Re: Almost ready for round 2, input on hub motors?

Just an idea ... For better weight distribution, since you have the motor in the rear you might want to get the batteries up front.

You could use the standard nylon bag and attach it up front using Velcro ties like this

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Then you can still use a bag on the back rack for the controller and other stuff you might want to carry.

LinkOfHyrule
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Re: Almost ready for round 2, input on hub motors?

I'm not so sure about that last one. I would be wary of anything on or so near the handlebars. It's also really high on the bike. Not the most stable of configurations. And if you run into something...

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IbeRKT
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Re: Almost ready for round 2, input on hub motors?

And if you run into something...

If you run into something you hit the tire not the space in front of the handlebars. I know it is high up but this bike frame does not have much space anywhere else.

You could use the same Velcro tie idea and mount it under the down tube. But that would depend on the size of the pack because you would have to allow for wheel clearance and take into account the travel of the front suspension (also since the bike has no fenders the pack would get muddy in bad weather).

If you were getting a split pack (two 24 volt packs wired in series to make a 48 volt pack) then I would have suggested some saddlebags (one 24volt pack in each side) draped over the cross member just in front of the seat. This would keep the weight in the center and also not increase the step-through height.

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