right-sizing my commuter bike

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Last post
Last seen: 15 years 2 months ago
Joined: Saturday, December 16, 2006 - 12:29
Points: 25
right-sizing my commuter bike

Hi All,
This is what I would like to do:
- Build/update my present cross bike to a power-assisted commuter bike.
- I am interested in Pedaling, not just being carried.
- I like having to pedal first, and work a bit.
- my commute is 10 miles each way, 50% bike path, some hills
- next year the department moves to new building, and the commute goes to 20
miles each way, still should be 50% bike trail, some hills.
- I Weight 250#, Presently
- I want to be able to sling a set of panniers on the bike if need be to
carry things.
- I am considering a hub motor, can't decide front/rear.
- I do not know if I can charge at work in the new location.
- I would like to ride in my work clothes, and not have to arrive dripping
of sweat.

So, is the possible with the present battery/Controller/Motor technology.
I like in California, but I am cheap, and I what I have seen so far leads me
to believe that this is going to cost $700 - $1500, not counting the bike.

Any and all usefull opinions welcome!



Drunkskunk's picture
Last seen: 10 years 10 months ago
Joined: Friday, April 6, 2007 - 12:59
Points: 29
Re: right-sizing my commuter bike

Forget the "pedel first" kits. the idea sounds great, but REALLY limits the usefullness of the bike. Like last week for me, when I made a panic stop and tiped the bike over, damaging the rear derailer. I rode 15 miles home without being able to use the pedals. it would have been a long walk if I had a pedal first bike. You'll find you pedal anyways normaly, Its hard not to want to when your feet are on the pedals, and you'll get addicted to the combined power of both your self and the motor, especialy when starting off.
The added benifit is you could chose not to pedal, or only a little, on the ride in to work, eliminating the "coming in to work sweaty" problem. then pedal like mad on the way home.

what you probably need is a Crystalyte rear hub motor in the 407 to 409 range at 36 to 48 volts to do what you want. Rear hub motors are easier to mount with fewer technicle chalanges. front motors can be dangerous, and limit your fork options to steel, non suspension forks. Lipo batteries would give you the best range, but NiMH aren't too bad. AVOID SLA. Lead is 4 times as heavy, and it ends up being more expensive due to it's short lifespan.

www.Ebikes.ca is the best place to go.

As for the bike to get, a good quality depearment store bike is all you need. I'm happy with my $170 Schwinn Trailway from Target. Avoid Huffys, Mongooses, and the lower end department store bikes.
Craigslist is another good option for a bike.

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