Hey everyone.
Well project number three is well under way. I am going to order my controller Monday.
I am wondering if I should purchase a 600 amp controller or a 400 amp.
As far as I understand, the higher amp controller will help provide more acceleration?
I also understand that the higher amp controller will "allow" me to drain the batteries at a faster rate, thus reducing range.
However, the 600 amp controller is programable, and I can limit the amount of amps output.
I guess it really comes down to the $200 extra for the 600 amp. I wouldn't mind once in a while to crank it up for quicker accel, maybe at a track day or drag event. I also believe that the reserve capacity in the 600 amp controller may be money well spent so the 400 amp isn't being maxed out all the time.
What do you think?
96 Volt Honda CBR F3 "E"
D&D 6.7" 10 HP motor
(8) UB12550 Batts
Kelly X00 amp controller
650 lbs with rider
13T or 14T/54T gearing.
Thanks in advance.
Mike K.
If you can at all afford it, go bigger.
Not that I have much of a clue about electronics, but generally things last longer if they do not run at their limit a lot of the time.
Is the form factor a problem (600Amp housing to big to fit)?
Mr. Mik
This information may be used entirely at your own risk.
There is always a way if there is no other way!
I found out from experience that just raising up the amp limit on a controller won't necessarily improve performance. Depends also on whether the motor is capable of drawing and using 600 amps, and the batteries are capable of supplying it, and the wiring and connectors are capable of transferring it.
well, the kelly controllers are rated in max amps, so 400A is 200A continuous 600A is 300...etc.... Keep that in mind. If your motor is the k91 equivalent, it'l draw up to 500A in short bursts...so 400A might be low, only for bursts. When its cruising, it will draw more near 100-150A. You don't want to go into current limit all the time, you're efficiency drops off.
Best thing to do is save up, get the highest amp capacity controller you can, you'll be glad you did.
Go for a little overhead if you can with voltage as well, don't run 72 and get 144, as you'll be PWMing at 50/50 and the switching losses will be higher... but 25% over whatever voltage you THINK you'll run... that way if you want to add batts, or go lithium, you can go higher/faster. If you're running 72, go with 96V controllers. 600 bucks isn't too bad for 600A/300Acont @ 96V with programability.
____________
Travis Gintz
1986 Honda VFR Conversion
www.evfr.net
Hey! Slow down there - you'll make the rest of us look bad! ;-) And anyway, I thought this was project number 2 (number 1 being your ATV)?
John H. Founder of Current Motor Company - opinions on this site belong to me; not to my employer
Remember: " 'lectric for local. diesel for distance" - JTH, Amp Bros || "No Gas.
Thanks Frodus.
I am comforted that my selection of controllers falls into your recommendations. I have chosen the Kelly 120V max 600 amp controller. Now that I am sure 96 Volts worth of batteries will fit in the frame, That's the voltage I'll run at. With the plan to up the voltage when Lifepho batts come down in price. I received a quote from everspring? for 96 volts worth of Lifepho's and they recommended 200ah batts that will cost $14K. I think SLA's will be just fine for now.
Hey John. This is just what happens when you ignore all your other responsibilities to work on the EV project. ;) Our first project was a stand up gas scooter that we used a 12V starter motor on, and a solenoid and button as a "controller". It worked good until we upped it to 24 volts, and the thing was screaming toward 30 MPH. I felt it hesitate and looked back to find a trail of smoke pouring out of the motor. I made it back home but the motor was fried.
Thanks again for everyones help.
Mike K.
Racermike
5 years ago I met Jesus and he total ruined my life. I have never been happier.
Racer,
What is they say "Smokem if you got em"...
Mike,
I think for $200 extra, it's definitely worth having the option of 50% more current. Also, running below the highest voltage rating of the controller means that you are not stressing the mosfets as much. This is a good for controller longevity.
It doesn't appear to matter how high of voltage the controller is rated for in terms of efficiency. If the controller is rated for 120v, and it is applying full battery voltage to the motor, than it is pulsing at 100% pulse width no matter what the battery voltage may be.
[url=/forum-topic/motorcycles-and-large-scooters/587-my-kz750-electric-motorcycle-project]KZ750 Motorcycle Conversion[/url]
[url=/forum-topic/motorcycles-and-large-scooters/588-fixing-my-chinese-scooter]900 watt scooter[/url]
Pic from http://www.electri
well, 100% there is no pulse, you're full on :) but I know what you mean... please let us all know how well it works, its not an isolated controller either, and the serial port is not isolated so no adding on a PDA or anything.
definately worth the money from what they claim, and they work with people on the bugs....
____________
Travis Gintz
1986 Honda VFR Conversion
www.evfr.net