Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector and Anderson connector

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snowsurfer
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Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector and Anderson connector

Hi,

I am getting a Crystalyte motor, and will be buying an NiMH battery from a hobby supplier, batteryspace

The Crystalyte controller uses an Anderson controller, but the battery uses a Tamiya connector.

Is there a way to get these two to work? Some sort of adapter available or am i at a loss here?

thanks.

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

I have used both Anderson PowerPole and Tamiya connectors. I can't count the number of times I melted Tamiya connectors before I switched to Anderson PowerPoles. The best advice I can give you is to cut the Tamiya connector off and replace it with a PowerPole. I have never had a failure using Anderson PowerPoles.

Grandpa Chas S.

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Re: Crystalyte Kit ... Tamiya connector and Anderson connector

Is there a way to get these two to work? Some sort of adapter available

It's easy enough to build an adapter. At the end the purpose of connectors is to connect wires together. So you could build a cable with an anderson pair on one end and a tamiya at the other. Batteryspace sells prewired cables with tamiya's on one end. It would be simple enough to go to powerwerx.com and get some anderson's and then build your cable.

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

Thanks for the replies gentlemen

How difficult is it to cut of the Tamiya and replace it with a PowerPole?

Do you happen to have some step by step directions?

With the batteryspace option, going with the adapter,

they offer series and parallel versions, do you know if it even matters?
I mean, because I will be using a 3 to 1 adapter, because my power pack actually has three Tamiya connectors (3 packs at 12V combining into 36V). So I don't need a two to one Tamiya to Anderson PowerPole, do I?

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

If I knew which battery pack you bought I could show you how to wire it. I found this one;

But I am not sure if it is the right one. I will also need to know which charger you are using.

Grandpa Chas S.

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

Should I just cancel the order, and get a battery specifically using an Anderson PowerPole? like from ebike.ca
http://www.ebikes.ca/store/#Batteries

It was this battery from All-battery

http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1348

//i25.tinypic.com/4iz5i.jpg)

using this charger

http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1351
//i27.tinypic.com/2hfhxsw.jpg)

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

snowsurfer, I would stick with the all-battery pack. I have to agree with Chas S. Cut off the Tamiya connectors and just replace them all with andersons. The sub C (SC) cells will probably have better performance (but not capacity) than the larger D cells offered by ebikes.ca.

Judging from what the wire size looks like, it's probably 14 for the batteries, and 16 for the charger. With 3 chargers, and an adapter connector, I calculate that you would need this many sets of 2 contact powerpol connectors:

3 for the battery pack, one for each 12v section

4 for the connector that wires the batteries in series, and has a connector output to mate with the controller input

3 for three different chargers to charge each 12v section of the battery pack simultaneously

So, that's 10, and it looks like the top set here would work: Power Werx 30 amp PP sets. For the 16 AWG wire, you will need to first crimp, than solder it, because these only accept 14-12 for crimping.

Another advantage of the Anderson Powerpoles is that these are modular. You can snap them together to have a 6-pin connector, making it easier to connect/disconnect for riding or charging.

If you do snap them together in 6-pin connectors for the battery pack/chargers/run connector than I would place all the positives on one side, and all of the negatives on the other side to help make things easier.

[url=/forum-topic/motorcycles-and-large-scooters/587-my-kz750-electric-motorcycle-project]KZ750 Motorcycle Conversion[/url]
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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

Thanks for the tips. That sounds great. I guess I will keep what is coming.
What tools do I need? I am a total novice with this. Are soldering irons expensive?
Are they hard to use? What exactly do they do? How many Watts soldering do I need?
How much should I spend? Are these any good? What maximum temperature for the iron do I need?
This link does not work without a postal code.

What is that in your avatar? Is it a motorcycle? Cool.

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

Snow,

Everything Andrew told you is correct with one exception. There is no need to crimp these connectors if you use solder. I have been using these connectors for over 20 years and all I ever do is solder,never have need to crimp one. In all that time I have never had a failure, and they have had some rough use.

OK. One very important item I can't stress enough, DON'T SHORT THE BATTERIES WIRES!!! when you clip the wire to remove the Tamiya connectors only cut one wire at a time. here is a picture I hope will help.


connector_replacement.gif

Grandpa Chas S.

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

Soldering irons can be gotten from radio shack or an electronics supplier. I recommend anything at or over 30 watts.

But first, you don't need to solder at all if you don't want to (it's your choice). I checked, and they carry anderson PP housings down to 18-16 AWG.

First, check with All-battery and see what size wire gauge the charger and battery wire is. If you don't know, and don't care to check, than just order both Anderson sized contacts (the 18-16, and the 14-12 housings) as their pretty cheap:

16-18 AWG Contacts
14-12 AWG Contacts

Also some roll pins to keep the connectors together once they are assembled: Roll Pins.

And 10 Red and 10 Black housings: Housings that work with either of the above contacts.

Also, you might want this special crimping tool for the powerpoles, or just use any crimping tool that you have can work ok IF you decide to crimp. If you want to solder, than you'll need a soldering iron instead, some solder, and a sponge to use to clean the solder off the iron when it's hot.

Finally, you'll want some 14 AWG wire. This is pretty common wire, so check and see if you can gut anything that you have that might have some. Otherwise, you can get it at a hardware store/electronics supplier, or auto parts store.

That should do it. And if you need any help with the wiring, just let us know.

[url=/forum-topic/motorcycles-and-large-scooters/587-my-kz750-electric-motorcycle-project]KZ750 Motorcycle Conversion[/url]
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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

Just a note on crimping the Andersons: In my experience, it's a flat out PITA (at least with 30A connectors).

They tend not to fit in the housings if you crimp them. I use a small 2200 degree F mini brazing torch and plenty of solder to attach them. Works great, but you have to work kinda fast to keep the solder from wicking too far into the wire.

Oh yeah. I second the warning about cutting the Tamiyas off one at a time. I stupidly cut off the connector of a 48V 5Ah SLA pack all at once. It blew a hole in my wire cutters.

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

Just a note on crimping the Andersons: In my experience, it's a flat out PITA (at least with 30A connectors). They tend not to fit in the housings if you crimp them.

I've been crimping anderson's for a long time w/o problem. It's a bit of a pain because it's a two step process. I just placed an order with powerwerx.com and notice they have a special crimper for these small andersons, and ordered one. It might do a better job.

I second the warning about cutting the Tamiyas off one at a time. I stupidly cut off the connector of a 48V 5Ah SLA pack all at once. It blew a hole in my wire cutters.

Heh.. Yesterday I was cutting into some wire on my bicycle and there was this loud LOUD sparking. I'd forgotten to disconnect the battery pack. I've got a collection of partially vaporized tools that keep reminding me how much power is in these batteries.

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

So how will I know which powerpole connectors to order? The guy told me that the Anderson connector to the controller is a 50A one.

All I see are 30A, 45A and 75A. Which ones should I buy?
I guess the most important one is that I have to have at least one that matches in size right? To the controller I mean?
The rest don't matter so much.

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

Btw, what do I need the additional 14 AWG wire for?
Does the type of metal used to construct it matter?
What metal is generally used? I remember learning a bit about this before,
copper used to be good, then they switched to some other metal that doesn't lead to arcing so much.
That was a year ago in some course I took.

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

Can you describe the cutting part a little more?
I hope this isn't a stupid question, can I use scissors or do I have to use some special cutter?
So do I cut straight across, like shortening a drinking straw? Something like that? Then I have to use another
tool to expose the wire? How much do I have to expose?

I guess after that I have to choose to CRIMP or SOLDER?
Crimping I figure is like pinching. Pinching the metal wire part into the connector tab/contact?

But soldering doesn't change the shape of the connector tab/contact?

Just a grasshopper here, but eager to learn.

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

"So how will I know which powerpole connectors to order? The guy told me that the Anderson connector to the controller is a 50A one.

All I see are 30A, 45A and 75A. Which ones should I buy?"

The fatter, the better (but a little more expensive). Which C-lyte kit are you using? If it's the 20A, you can use the 30A connectors. If you have the 40A controller, the 45As will work. Personally, I'd get the 75A. You don't really need it, but if you feel like upgrading later, you won't have to redo the connections. They'll also have very slightly lower resistance, too.

"I guess the most important one is that I have to have at least one that matches in size right? To the controller I mean?"

You could redo the controller's connector, too, if you need to.

"Btw, what do I need the additional 14 AWG wire for?"

Unless you have the controller, batteries, and motor right next to each other, you'll need to make some extension cables.

"Does the type of metal used to construct it matter? What metal is generally used? I remember learning a bit about this before,
copper used to be good, then they switched to some other metal that doesn't lead to arcing so much."

You mean for the connectors? I can't remember for sure, but I think it's silver oxide.

"Can you describe the cutting part a little more?
I hope this isn't a stupid question, can I use scissors or do I have to use some special cutter?
So do I cut straight across, like shortening a drinking straw? Something like that? Then I have to use another
tool to expose the wire? How much do I have to expose?"

Simple: Just cut each wire off ONE AT A TIME. Do that and you'll be fine.
You could use scissors, but unless you've had some experience with this before, you'll have trouble stripping the wire with them. Wire strippers almost always have a set of wire cutters built in, anyway.
Yeah, just cut it straight across. It's best to expose as little as possible, but still have the wire go all the way into the contact. A little more is fine, too, as long as the exposed wires on the plug can't touch each other.

"I guess after that I have to choose to CRIMP or SOLDER?
Crimping I figure is like pinching. Pinching the metal wire part into the connector tab/contact?

But soldering doesn't change the shape of the connector tab/contact?"

Yup. You buy a crimping tool (pliers sorta works, but it's really best to have a proper crimper), and smash the contact onto the wire. It doesn't give quite as much electrical contact as soldering, but works pretty well (no, we're not getting into another discussion about this andrew :P). Soldering takes a little more skill, but will give you a more solid connection. A few people just crimp, some only solder (like me), and I think most do both, actually. I only solder because I have problems getting the connector to fit afterwards. I don't know how reikiman does it without issue. Perhaps because I was using 12AWG (the most a 30A can fit).

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

^^^ Thanks for the insights, Hylian Knight.
How is the Princess Zelda?

//content.answers.com/main/content/wp/en-commons/thumb/8/82/320px-Triforce.png)

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

Hey Guys,
Is this accurate?
//www.yourzagi.com/images/2cell-small.jpg)

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

snowsuurfer, sorry I didn't answer your questions sooner.

So how will I know which powerpole connectors to order? The guy told me that the Anderson connector to the controller is a 50A one.

The 15, 30, and 45 ah powerpole connectors are the same, just with different wire size inserts. They are all inter-connectible. But, the 50A may be an SB which is a slightly different type of connector that is not modular. Hmm... Can you find out if it is an SB? The SB connectors have two contacts in one housing.

All I see are 30A, 45A and 75A. Which ones should I buy?
I guess the most important one is that I have to have at least one that matches in size right? To the controller I mean?
The rest don't matter so much.

Correct. The rest could be 30ah to accept 14 AWG wire, or 15 ah to accept 16 AWG for the charger. But you must have one of the SBs (if it's an SB) to mate with the controller. The SBs are not modular, but the PPs are, i.e., you can construct a connector of as many contacts as you want.

Btw, what do I need the additional 14 AWG wire for?

That is for the wire to make the inter-connecting connector that will wire your batteries in series, and at the same time, connect them to the controller.

Does the type of metal used to construct it matter?

No. Anything will do, as long as it's the desired gauge, Even solid copper wire would work fine if that's what you've got, though it might not be very flexible.

Can you describe the cutting part a little more?
I hope this isn't a stupid question, can I use scissors or do I have to use some special cutter?

Any shear type of cutter will work. Pliers usually have some on them as well. But, if you use scissors, this may damage them some. It's best to have a cutter designed for cutting wires. Usually any wire strippers, and even needle nose type pliers will have them.

So do I cut straight across, like shortening a drinking straw? Something like that? Then I have to use another
tool to expose the wire? How much do I have to expose?

Yea. But don't cut the red and black wires at the same time leading from a power source like a battery. This will cause a short.

The other tool is a wire stripper. These can be found at any hardware store/electronics store. Probably an auto parts store as well. Or you can just use a box cutter or hobby knife to strip the wire. Expose enough to slip into the connector, but not too much so there's not much bare wire exposed.

I guess after that I have to choose to CRIMP or SOLDER?
Crimping I figure is like pinching. Pinching the metal wire part into the connector tab/contact?

But soldering doesn't change the shape of the connector tab/contact?

Yes. To crimp you need to squeeze the contact down on the wire. I like to crimp in more than one place just to be sure. Pull on the wire to test the crimp. If it doesn't move, than it's a good crimp.

To solder, you are correct. Also, some people like to do bouth---crimp and then solder. To solder, heat up the contact with the wire in place, and flow solder into it.

[url=/forum-topic/motorcycles-and-large-scooters/587-my-kz750-electric-motorcycle-project]KZ750 Motorcycle Conversion[/url]
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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

The drawing looks good.

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

^^^ Thanks for the insights, Hylian Knight.
How is the Princess Zelda?

I don't even know any more. There's this big black ethereal wall on the trail leading out of the village, there's this weird imp-thing on my back, and I've been turned into a wolf. It's been a nightmare, really it has. Do you have any idea how hard it is to type with paws?

Your drawing looks fine to me, BTW.

The author of this post isn't responsible for any injury, disability or dismemberment, death, financial loss, illness, addiction, hereditary disease, or any other undesirable consequence or general misfortune resulting from use of the "information" contai

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

I was told that the connector was gray and 1.88" tall. I am assuming it is an SB connector.

So I can't use a normal red black APP on it then? Can I cut it off and put in a black and red APP?

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

Yea you will either need to cut it off, or buy an SB50 housing and contacts to mate with it.

[url=/forum-topic/motorcycles-and-large-scooters/587-my-kz750-electric-motorcycle-project]KZ750 Motorcycle Conversion[/url]
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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

So here, I have some pictures. Can I just use an SB50 connector and pop it onto the batteries and then hook it up to the controller?
Do I need to use the key ignition? If I wanted to use the key ignition, how do I hack it? Thanks!!!
//i31.tinypic.com/262xerq.jpg)
//i31.tinypic.com/sq2omh.jpg)

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WE BD-36 or turbo 72 volt wiring

}:) Here's another question...
I have a We BD-36 on a 1952 Roadmaster bike. Runs fine and all, but want to swap over to the 36volt NiMH 4200mah from All-Battery. I want to have 2 of these wired up to give me the option to run 36v normally,(that is safely) or hit "turbo' and have a jolt of 72 volts to pass a car in traffic, or blow right through a herd of Spandex-boys. Yea, childish, but lots of fun!!!How would I do this properly???

Thanks, GyroGuy

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Re: Crystalyte Kit Using a Hobby battery Ni-MH Tamiya connector

So here, I have some pictures. Can I just use an SB50 connector and pop it onto the batteries and then hook it up to the controller?
Do I need to use the key ignition? If I wanted to use the key ignition, how do I hack it? Thanks!!!

No, you don't have to use the key.

The connector for it will either turn on the controller when it's either closed or open. If it goes on when open, then you can just leave it out. If it goes on when closed, you'll need to short out the mating contactor to avoid the key.

I think. Kinda hard to tell with the way that keyswitch is wired up.

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Re: WE BD-36 or turbo 72 volt wiring

}:) Here's another question...
I have a We BD-36 on a 1952 Roadmaster bike. Runs fine and all, but want to swap over to the 36volt NiMH 4200mah from All-Battery. I want to have 2 of these wired up to give me the option to run 36v normally,(that is safely) or hit "turbo' and have a jolt of 72 volts to pass a car in traffic, or blow right through a herd of Spandex-boys. Yea, childish, but lots of fun!!!How would I do this properly???

Thanks, GyroGuy

Unless yours is in a 20" rim like mine is, 72V is not a good idea. I'd expect your bike would top out at 42mph in a 26". I'd question the hubs ability to handle the 2kW continuous necessary to handle this speed WITH a controller to limit the amperage.

This hub is known to draw well over 100A on only 60V if no current limit is in place. icecube over on ES fried his hub doing this. Hot-wiring it up to 72V would be hub'icide.

I used to have it on my 26" S-40, and 48V gave me 27mph, which is enough to pass all but the most hardcore of lycras.

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