This will be my fourth electric bike project. I’ve done the friction drive (home built 24 Volt with warrior motors), the hub wheel drive (crystalyte 5304, 36 volt), and now the bottom bracket drive (elation bike, 24 volt). The friction drive, although it worked had too many drawbacks, many of you are familiar with. The Crystalyte 5304 motor is 25 lbs. I didn’t realize that 25 lbs rotating in the rear wheel of a bicycle ruins the handling of your bike to that extent. With batteries the whole thing just became an albatross. The much touted power wasn’t very impressive but it was good at lugging. I’m just getting used to the elation system so I won’t comment on it at this point.
Now I’m looking for a system with good power in a light weight package. Here is what I am considering and would appreciate advise on this project:
Perm 080 motor (1hp at 12 volts, 2hp at 24 volts)
Double ended rear hub with a free wheel gear from staton-inc.com built into a bullet proof rim
Controller ?
Batteries - Thunderpower TP9000-5S2PX (9000 mAh at 18.5V)
Twist grip throttle
Essentially the motor would be mounted in the fame triangle, as close as possible to the bottom bracket. I could drive the right rear freewheeler either directly by chain from the motor or via a chain and/or belt reducing jackshaft attached to the chainstay/seatstay
I'd like feedback on which controller to use and what ratio I need to reduce the motor to (3:1, 9:1 ?)
If you know of anyone operating a bicycle system with a Perm 080 motor or the Lemco 130 motor or even the Agni motor could you please give me the link?
Thank you -cc
The first word that comes to mind is "overkill" but it's likely we're after different things.
BTW my experience so far with comparitive battery pack analysis is that SLA batteries on a bicycle are.. ah.. "albatross" is a good word. The li-ion packs I've used are much more appropriate for bicycling.
In terms of a lot of power in a small/light package, have you looked at the article I linked here: http://visforvoltage.org/forum/3386-interesting-approach-electrifying-recumbent ??
- David Herron, The Long Tail Pipe, davidherron.com, 7gen.com, What is Reiki
Thanks David, that is a great link. I had wondered about the prospect of using rc parts but did not think they were designed to hold up under continuous use. I will follow the progress of this project closely. - cc
I noticed this motor has a lot of power for the weight: Magmotor S28-150
[url=/forum-topic/motorcycles-and-large-scooters/587-my-kz750-electric-motorcycle-project]KZ750 Motorcycle Conversion[/url]
[url=/forum-topic/motorcycles-and-large-scooters/588-fixing-my-chinese-scooter]900 watt scooter[/url]
Pic from http://www.electri
Crystalytes aren't very happy with only 36V to feed them. 72V seems to be the preference for these. Some run 96V. I've heard tell of a few who run even higher.
How many volts do you plan to use the PMG-80 at? Unless you overvolt it quite a bit, it won't match a high-voltage C'lyte setup, even if you use gears. X5s are known to take 5,000W (6.7HP) peak and 2,000W (2.7HP) continuous reliably. I've seen a vid of someone with a 72V setup pulling peaks of 90A for 8.7HP.
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Thanks Andrew, that's another motor I need to consider. I'd forgotten about mag motors and the whole rc industry in my poking around.
Thanks LinkOfHyrule, I felt that the crystalyte hub was just too heavy, the bike became ponderous and lost agility. I was using a NiMh battery pack. I would have liked to have tried the crystalyte at higher voltages but I came to the conclusion that I didn't like the handling characteristics and was leary about throwing good money after bad. You've given me something to reconsider though. If I had to do the whole hub motor thing over again I would have bought a smaller unit (still 15 lbs) and over-volted it. Oh well, I learned something from it anyway. - cc