My WE BD36 acted erratic and I noticed that a battery connector was loose. I fixed it and things were back to normal.
Then somehow I broke the pin that connects to the controller. So I got a new one at an autoparts store and spliced it to the battery wires.
Alas. I crossed the wires and the bike jumped backwards and ran over me when I connected it. I pulled the wires apart and noted that the controller was smoking.
After I re-did the wires, the bike ran strongly, but the throttle had no effect. It would not turn off. I stopped the bike and lifted it up and pulled the wires apart.
The controller was very, very hot.
How do I test the controller and/or throttle to see if they are still good?
Where are the best prices on replacement controllers?
Thanks
Well you already tested your controller and have found that you fried the controller. You just don't realize you already did the test.
One of the failure modes for EV controllers is to peg at 100% ... so, think about how you would stop your electric bicycle if the controller is at 100% and cannot be shut off. Well, on my bicycle it's easy enough to reach down to where the wires are hooked up and disconnect the power from the controller. But if your wiring is not easily reachable and your controller pegs at 100% what are you going to do.
Anyway.. you need a new controller and from what you described the throttle is probably fine.
- David Herron, The Long Tail Pipe, davidherron.com, 7gen.com, What is Reiki
Sounds blown to me. Does it do this without the throttle connected?
I have one from e-crazyman (eBay) that I've modded and does me good. It's the 36V 30A model. If you have the 50A controller from WE, it won't give as good acceleration, though. Upside is it'll take 48V without modification. :)
The author of this post isn't responsible for any injury, disability or dismemberment, death, financial loss, illness, addiction, hereditary disease, or any other undesirable consequence or general misfortune resulting from use of the "information" contai
When i blew my controller I got a replacement at werelectrified. It cost about a hundred bucks, but I was unaware of alternatives at the time. Any brushed motor controller will work but you will have to figure out which wires to connect and so forth. Ebay has lots of cheap controllers. I suspect your throttle is fine. If you get a controller from one of the web stores that sell scooter parts, you can also order new connectors for wherever you need them. electricscoooterparts.com has a big selection.
Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global
It must be the water. I did almost exactly the same thing while replacing my battery pack. I have been running the original controller at 48V with 12ah SLAs. Abused them into worthlessness last season and was replacing them with 18ah for this season. That instant reverse sure came as a surprise. A major difference is that when I wired it up correctly the motor would not come on at all. The light on the throttle is green, but engaging it results in nothing. At least I'm not burning myself. It sounds like I'm going to have to replace my controller, too. Anyone actually tried that $52 wonder on ebay? Is there any real benefit in 1000w vs: 800W? I have almost no hills at all.
-BothellBob
Crazyman on ebay is the man for those. But.... you will have to make some connector changes.
Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global
I fried my controller on a wilderness energy bike by crossing the wires from the battery. I couldn't find an exact replacement so I bought an MX500 controller.
The MX500 has six sets of wires that come to labeled sockets
I can see how most of them fit, but before I start cutting and chopping and splicing, I want to be sure that the my guesses make sense.
=============
here is what I can see on my old Controller.
Red Wire from Battery goes to board, to a clump of solder that is shared with two capacitors and a blue wire that goes to the motor and a green wire comes back to the board
The Black wire goes to the board and there are four wires that go to the thumb-throttle
the red one is near a region named ADJ
the black and white one share a region named J1
the tan wire goes near a label H24247
there is another pair of wires that goes to the key-controlled off-on switch.
=====================
wiring diagram in text
=============================================
battery (+) +++ red +++ solder-to-board (470microF-63V(2))--Blue-wire--(MOTOR)--GREEN--(solder-to-board(M-))
-
-
black-wire
-
-
solder-to-board
on board
(ADJ ) ---red------- to thumb-throttle
(J1)------black ---- to thumb-throttle
(J1)------white----- to thumb-throttle
H24247----tan------- to thumb-throttle
socket---to---key-switch----to-socket
============================
Now the new controller (MX500) has many wires coming out and the sockets are labeled.
BATTERY - BLACK, RED, (extra red wire)
MOTOR -Blue, Brown
"Timer" - Black, Red, Green, Grey
BRAKE -Back,Red
BRAKE -Black,Red
electric charger - black,red
=============
I can see that the brake switchs and the charger are useless for my configuration and
that the BATTERY and MOTOR should connect OK, but the 'timer" wires have me hesitating.
Any help would be gratefully accepted.
Thanks in advance.
I saw this post and thought I'd ask, do you have a pic or schematic of the modd? I just bought one from ecrazyman, the 1000 watt, and the wiring is different. I need to wire it to a wilderness kit. I posted pics of it here, http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=2250&start=30 and I'm planning on using 48 volts with it, probably lithium pack, 20 Ah if I can get it. Is there a noticeable difference between 20Ah & 12Ah for speed? I have a 36volt 12ah sla pack now.
No Pain, No Pain!