Ok, I bought a 48V 1000W Electric Scooter Speed Controller. 48 Volt 1000 Watt output. Designed for 500-1000 Watt motors. Under Voltage protect 41 Volts. Current limiting feature prevents controller damage due to over-current conditions. Under voltage protection feature prevents over-discharge and extends battery life. 12AWG battery and motor connection wires. Uses variable speed hall-effect throttle.
and i bought a 48 Volt 1000 Watt Electric Scooter Motor
48V 1000W electric scooter motor. Powerful four brush permanent magnet electric motor design with 100% ball bearing construction. Motor speed: 3000RPM. 24" long red and black power leads. Shaft rotation reversible by reversing power leads. Dimensions: 4-1/4" wide x 6" long excluding shaft, 7" long including shaft. Includes factory installed 11 tooth sprocket for 8mm chain. This original sprocket can be replaced with 11 tooth sprocket for #25 chain (item # SPR-2511C), or 10 tooth sprocket for 8mm chain (item # SPR-810). Motor shaft starts out at 12mm OD and is stepped down to 10mm OD with two flat spots where the sprocket mounts, past the sprocket there is a threaded post for the nut and washer which hold the sprocket in place. Made by Unite®
and i use (4) 12volt 10ah batterys on the scooter right now, and i have (4) 12 volt 7.5 ah batterys that i dont use for anything, so i was wondering if i can use 8 batterys on there 2 pairs of 4 batterys in series, then the to sets parallel to each other. i would try it but i dont want to risk blowing up the controller or motor.
So... if you would know what bigger batterys i could get or if the thing i said above would work.
THANKS FOR ANYTHING!
ANY INFORMATION WOULD HELP!
Yes. Where the motor or controller would blow up is if the voltage is too high. What you're proposing would keep the voltage the same. By adding more battery in parallel to the existing battery you'll add to range.
- David Herron, The Long Tail Pipe, davidherron.com, 7gen.com, What is Reiki
Yes this will work just as you stated. You can use any configuration of batteries as long as they are 48-volts and you balance the amp hours so each 12-volt segment of the battery pack is the same amp hour rating, and all the 12-volts amp hour ratings are the same. In other words you can not use 2 7 amp hour batteries with 2 12 amp hour batteries in series. You can however use 2 7 amp hour batteries and 1 14 amp hour battery in series. This would give you a 24-volt 14 amp hour battery pack. Not a really good idea but in theory it could be done.
Grandpa Chas S.
So, in mrjj24's case, could he parallel (1) 12V 10Ah and (1) 12V 7.5Ah to get (1) 12V 17.5Ah "pack", and then connect (4) of those together in series to get 48V 17.5Ah?
If that would work in "theory", why would it not be a good idea in "reality"?
Harlow
What about paralleling different voltages ?
For example a 12 volt series string, and a 18 volt series string ?
Not a good idea ?
Need diodes or some other circuitry ?
A specific example.
I have 2 X 28 volt 2.4Ah batts,
and 4 X 36 volt 2.4 Ah batts.
What is best way to combine these to 64 volts ?
4 X 36 volts in parallel first,
2 X 28 in parallel,
and then connected in series to the 4 X 36 ?
Or some other combination ?
Does it matter ?
ok what i realy wanted to know is if i could get bigger batterys like i use 4 12v 10ah batterys and i was wondering if i could use like 4 12v 15-20ah batterys without blowing up the controller or brake anything.
A simpler solution may be to run one 12 ah 48 v pack for awhile, and then unplug it and plug into the second 7 ah 48 v pack when the first one is drained. You can run as many Amp hours of 48 v as you can carry the weight of, but as you get heavier you will get slower. Amp hours doesn't affect the controller, it is a measure of quantity.If you think of it like a cup of water, Ah is the sise of the cup, watts is how fast you pour it out. Combining the 12ah with the 7 ah parallel, and then series connecting to get 48v will have the 7 ah batteries running dead too soon, and stressing them to death. The best way to get a long range battery is to go to lifepo4 once the batteries you have are used up. 48v-20ah lifepo4 is only 20 pounds.
Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global
Your controller is designed for 48v 1000w, that means you cannot draw over 21Amps from the controller for long periods of time (you can draw bursts of higher currents).
As long as you don't supply the controller over 48v and don't draw over 21A then you're good to go with any Ah rating.
You can connect any 48v battery you want (as long as you have the room in your battery compartment in the scooter). The Ah rating of the battery describes the amount of current/charge the battery can hold. The actual current drained from the battery at a specific moment depends on the load connected to the battery. So the higher the Ah rating, the longer the battery will last with any given load.
ok... i want to know if i use (4) 12v 10ah batterys in series, then (4) 12v 7.5 ah batteys in series, then parellel the 10ah batterys with the 7.5 batterys if that would blow up a 1000 watt controller or a 1000 watt motor...
im building my own scooter and i dont know what full size batterys the motor and controller can take.
the main idea is to make the thing go faster, i know if you add more ah to the series of batterys it will go faster because if done it before with a different scooter that i have and know how much ah the controller can hold.
DAVE-S so you meen i can use 4 12v 20amp batterys with that motor and controller?
and it would go faster?
PEAPLE IM SORRY I SAID AH I MENT AMP SORRY!
Lets try to make this simple;
1. Volts is the amount of force you place on the windings of the motor and dictates how fast the motor will spin, so Volts = speed = rpm (more volts greater speed)
2. Amps is the amount of current the voltage can push through the windings, so amps = current = torque (more amps better hill climbing)
3. Amp Hours is the total energy which can be stored, Amp Hours = fuel amount = Range (More Amp Hours longer range)
The controller is the carburetor of an EV. The controller is designed to allow only a specific amount of current to flow to the motor just like a carburetor will only allow a specific amount of gas to flow to an engine. Adding amp hours is like putting a bigger gas tank on but does not change the controller so it will not change the amount of voltage or current (amps) flowing to the motor. Remember adding a bigger fuel tank (more Amp Hours) adds weight and just like an engine the more weight you add the slower you will go. Look at the weight of an e-bike compared to a car. Adding 30 pounds (13.6 Kilos) to a bike is like adding 700 pounds (317 Kilos) to a car. So it takes very little weight to effect the performance of an e-bike.
A controller is also designed to work at a specified voltage. In the case of a 48-volt 1000-watt controller the voltage should be 48-volts. The controller will limit the current to 20.833333333333 amps or about 21 amps.
Grandpa Chas S.
Batteries don't have Amp ratings, they have Amp/Hour (Ah) rating.
The current you draw from the battery depends on the load (resistance) of the device connected to the battery (I = V/R).
If a battery is rated 10 Ah, it means that it can supply 10 Amps for one hour before being drained. It can also supply 20 Amps, but only for half an hour, 5 Amps for 2 hours and so on.
All this is good in theory. Ah rating is measured for a low draining current of about 0.02C i.e 0.02*10Ah = 0.2Amp (I'm not positive about the 0.02 but it's somewhere in the neighborhood). If you draw high currents from the battery then you will not get the rated drain time.
ok so if i had the controller and motor rujnning at full volts but not full ah if i uped the ah it would go faster
and im about to hook up 4) 12v 10ah batterys in parellel to 4) 12v 7.5 ah batteys
mrjj24,
You apparently did not read my post. AH is fuel, range... Volts is speed... Amps is torque ... maybe I was not clear but amps and amp hours are 2 different measurements, please do not confuse them.
Grandpa Chas S.