Hi,
I just bought a used BL-36 400W pedal-first setup locally --without battery, and have since ordered a 48V LifePO4 battery from ping. It should be here by winter :)
I popped open the controller and the big capacitors are all 50V. I think a fully charged Life is ~58V, well over the cap rating. I'm not sure what the FETs are rated at, but probably similar. Bottom line, I think she may blow up if I connect the new battery (previous battery was 36V NiMH, 8ah).
I like the pedal first setup (safe, reduces big current draw at takeoff), but don't want smoke. Can anyone recommend another controller that would drop in? I talked to Dennis at Bernson's and he doesn't think the new 36V 50A controller will work with the 400W motor...
Any advice, links, etc. arwe much appreciated. Thanks!
Scotty
Well, I am new to the game, but I would agree that the new WE 50a controller probably won't work with any of the older hub motors. It only has three wires from the controller to the motor.
I ordered the Crystalite 36-72v 20a instant start controller from ComCycleUSA to modify to work with the BL-36.
I read on the forums for weeks before I finally ordered the WE BL-36 and all of the information I learned and based my decisions assumed a hall sensor would be involved. I am not sure how this new sensorless controller works, but it screwed up my plans. I had even picked out and ordered another controller to use when I ramped up the voltage beyond what was known to work with the stock WE controller. I guess I will have to break new ground myself and see what this new controller will handle. I will be opening up the controller soon to see what voltage components are rated inside once I establish my 48volt routine.
Whome
The new WE 50A controller, like my pedal-first controller has 3 wires too. I was just going by what Dennis at Bernson said, that he didn't think it would work because one is pedal-first, the new one is instant start. I don't know either how they do it without hall sensors, but I'm sure there's a way. Maybe the circulate current thru all the windings until they get back emf, then they know the correct sequence. Seems possible...
The way I see it I have several options:
1. Try the old controller at 48V and see if she blows up.
2. Modify the old controller with 50V caps and possibly different FETs (major surgery)
3. Buy a new controller. Maybe this one (controller #4): http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6352
4. Start over with a new hub motor and sell the 400W pedal first....
Any suggestions? I'm leaning toward option 3.
Well I just popped open the controller for my BL-36 which is 2 weeks old. The new controller only has 50v caps in it. I have been riding to work the past two days on 48v nicads. When fully charged they are around 56-57v. Not much use, but everything looked good inside. No obvious overheating.
How many wires does your motor have?
Whome
I am surprised, a little. 50V caps. I know it's a 36V system, so 50V caps should provide adequate overhead. Still, I know a lot of people have been running the new kits at 48V (58V fully charged LifePo4) and have not had any problems. Are you sure yours is a new kit?
My controller has three wires: Yellow, Blue, and White (going from memory).
Do you think I should try the old controller at 48V? (option 1)
Well, I am pretty sure it is new. I know it is new to me. I've only had it 2 weeks and it was shipped to me new in the box. I have been emailing with Knuckles and I have learned that this controller has the new board in it that works with the brushless motors without hall snesors. Sensorless controller board. I am going with option 1 though because I must have more power. I need more power.
Whome
If you plan on buying a new controller anyway, then I don't suppose you have anything to loose by trying the old controller at 48v.
Whome