Hall-effect throttle question

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slbaker
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Hall-effect throttle question

I have a low-traffic commute and I tend to hold my e-bike's throttle at a single setting for most of the ride.
So I would like to use a simple potentiometer to set the speed during cruising
and use an SPDT switch to select between the thumb throttle and the potentiometer.

So my question is: could replacing the Hall-effect throttle with a potentiometer harm my controller?
I'm not sure how it could.. but I want to ask in case someone has already tried this experiment.

The controller just expects a voltage between 0V and 5V to control the speed.. right?

Here's a picture of what I am proposing:

cruise-throttle.jpg

LinkOfHyrule
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Re: Hall-effect throttle question

That'll work. The reason pot throttles don't work on hall controllers is because the voltage progresses through a different range and so gives a wonky feel if you try to use one. Since you won't be moving the pot, however, that won't be a problem.

I sometimes use a pot instead of a proper throttle sometimes when I'm testing stuff, and it only gets response in the middle of its rotation.

Pot controllers use 0-5V. Hall controllers expect 1-4V.

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slbaker
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Re: Hall-effect throttle question

I built the circuit to switch between the hall-effect throttle and the potentiometer (cruise)
and it doesn't work. Even though with the switch in the cruise position, I can see
the control voltage vary from 0V to 4V, the motor will not start or run when
in the cruise position. Even if I start the motor with the hall-effect throttle
and the switch to cruise pre-set at full throttle, the motor quits as soon
as I switch to cruise.. It's very strange.

cruise_control.jpg

chas_stevenson
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Re: Hall-effect throttle question

slbaker,

The size of your pot may have something to do with this. If it is too big there may not be enough current flow. I have heard you should use a 5K ohm pot. Not sure if this is it just a guess.

Grandpa Chas S.

LinkOfHyrule
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Re: Hall-effect throttle question

Yeah, if it's just a random potentiometer and too high a value, the signal will drop too much through it and it won't be picked up properly.

A 5k would be best, but I've used a 10k as a substitute throttle and it worked fine.

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TFaust
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Re: Hall-effect throttle question

If I understand your question, there is a simple answer that requires a little folk-engineering. Pop open your spring-loaded throttle and remove the spring. Before you snap the throttle back together, put a bit of flexible plastic, foam, or rubber in where the spring was so that once you snap the throttle back together it creates a slight drag on the throttle, keeping your setting in place while still allowing you to adjust the setting. I have done this with a THR 65 throttle and it works great. The throttle stays where you set it and you don't have to constantly hold it. You have to manually return the throttle to zero but you get used to it. This could be a safety problem if you fall off, but then what you are suggesting with the switch would be too.

On a related note, I'd appreciate advice on whether or not it is possible to get the LEDs on my 65 throttle to work in conjunction with my SPD 2404 controller. The controller is a 3 lead type and the 65 throttle has four leads, one of which (yellow) remains unconnected. The throttle works fine, but the "Power, Full, Low" LEDs don't light.

Thanks

TFaust

e-doggies
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Re: Hall-effect throttle question

I think the LED's are supposed to change based on total battery pack voltage. Have you tried connecting the yellow wire to your pack positive?

TFaust
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Re: Hall-effect throttle question

Thanks doggies. That did the trick. Actually, I connected after the on/off key switch so it doesn't stay on all the time. Thanks again doggies and good luck with your throttle, baker.

TFaust

bcampbel
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Re: Hall-effect throttle question

I am using a 24 vdc motor and want to just turn it on or off by switching on the supply voltage. I have a 5K pot controlling speed which works well. When I apply the voltage the motor never starts, I have to turn the pot to high resistance and then turn it back down to get the motor to start. There are two additional wires coming from the imbedded controller which are not mentioned but go to the throttle. Anyone have an idea of what I need to do with those wires to make the motor start? I am using a 24 Volt 400 Watt MAC Brushless Motor With Built In Speed Controller. It claims it's built-in variable speed controller works with any 5k Ohm throttle or potentiometer to vary the speed of this motor from full stop to full forward. 2800 RPM at full speed.

Thanks
-Bill

mcgyverism
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Re: Hall-effect throttle question

I would like to replace my hall-effect THR-65 throttle since they keep breaking, with a potentiometer. OR, I need a heavy duty hall-effect throttle.
I have gone through 2 THR-65's. Each only lasts for 10-15 minutes.
The THR-65 was mounted to a wagon, so it was not subjected to abuse, they just quit working,and no matter how much I engage the throttle or not, the motor runs at half speed. I have tested the throttle with 4.5vdc, and a multimeter. Each time they produce 2.1vdc engaged or not.
I have a key switch for OFF/forward/Reverse.
The controller is a SPD-24500R, connected to a gear reduction motor. The wagon is not built for speed, just to move the wagon about 200-400 yards at a time over a paved road.
I do not know why they keep breaking and going to half speed.
Here are some pictures of the wagon.

https://www.ghilliesuits.com/pvsoccer/wagon_motor.jpg
https://www.ghilliesuits.com/pvsoccer/wagon_side.jpg

In the pictures, the throttle was connected to the front of the handle bar so I could engage it while I walked along beside the wagon. It is not shown in the pictures because I removed the broken throttle.

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