I finally received the hub motor I paid for and hooked everything up and twisted the throttle...nothing. I noticed the brakes lights were on and decided to stop and work on the problem the next day.
After getting home today I thought that application of the brakes disengages the throttle. I hadn't hooked up the rear brake cable to the hub-brake and after doing that the hub motor did work.
I ended up replacing several bolts and nuts that were cheap-o and test drove the bike. The rear wheel didn't fall off and it seems as good-as-old.
Now to ship the warranty covered motor back after the holidays so I will have a spare for the next calamity.
Happy scooting -
Ben - Modesto
Good to hear you're back on the road Ben. I have been scooterless this past week due to lots of snow and ice around here. The scoot handles rain just fine, even in stock form, but I am thinking that it wouldn't do so well in the ice packed bike lanes. 450 miles and counting and many more to come. Keeping fingers crossed.
Happy scooting, Scott.
That is the valve core remover tool. Not really sure what the purpose of the blue "michelin man" end is, other than providing something to grip.
Saving the planet CAN be fun!http://www.greenwheelinscooters.com
Ben, glad you're up and running! What was the total cost + shipping? Did you get the license lamp yet? What bolts did you replace? I dismantled the front section of the bike in order to tighten things up, such as putting a better quality 10 mm bolt with a wider flange(built in washer)for more contact area at the very front of the cowling(underneath the V shape between the headligts) Also put 1/8th'thick,1/2'wide foam weatherstrip,the fairly firm kind between the screws that hold the windshield on and reinstalled it,next is the glove box. When I put it back together,no power, put the front brake cable back on, voila! I'm going to purchase some warmer boots for the 30 degree days! Gonna test the clunk mobile this weekend! GreenWheelin,I know it looks like a valvecore remover,but the end has a plunger on it and cant turn the valvecore. Happy scootin everybody! Randel- Hanford Ca
Randel, the cost for the hub-motor was $155.00 which included shipping. I replaced the nuts and bolts securing the rear brake drum to the frame, and replaced the screws holding the rear axle retainer on both sides with nuts and bolts. This retainer keeps the entire wheel from sliding out the back of the assembly if the giant bolts on both sides of the wheel should come loose.
I'm out riding today and noticed a slight rubbing sound from the back end which goes away when I apply the rear brake lightly. I will have to adjust the brake pads as it sounhds like that is the root of the noise. Other than that I am happy to be moving again.
Glad to see you did not give up on the ride. Yes I agree these vehicles leave a lot to be desired when it come to quality but with some care you can make a good vehicle from it. I just wish you did not have to put that much effort into something new. In my mind it should work out of the box.
Hope you get many good rides now that you have replaced some of the questionable stock miscellaneous parts. I would advise you to do a good check of the entire vehicle and do the same to anything else that may be suspect.
Grandpa Chas S.
Chas, thanks for the words of encouragement. I was very frustrated in my earlier posts and painted the lack of quality of these bikes with a broad brush. My apologies if I offended anyone with my various ethno-centric references.
Having traveled the world a bit, my experience has taught me that all countries produce their fair share of shoddy merchandise.
I am going over my bike every weekend and replacing items here and there in an attempt to improve a basically sound design.
Now if Extreme would just ship me the license plate bulb that has been on back order since September.
Criminy! Has anybody found out what this contraption is? it is definately not a valve core remover!
Ben, how is everything going? Randel Hanford Ca
Guys, guys, one last time....
It's an oiler for the chain or other parts, to be kept on your keychain.
* unscrew the metal part; inside there's a rubber SEAL, implying a liquid to be contained.
* Note that the "nipple", when pressed allows said fluid to escape slowly.
* Note the ring on the other end...as in key-ring
* note the body shape...looks like drops
end of story
Ive said it before, that controllers (and hub motors) internals are chronically under-engineered.
Problem is tiny wires connecting serious componets that burn out if theres a short or any peak in current draw.
This also applies to some Lithium battery packs. The weak points is relatively small wires between the cells. These burn out easily. I think metal bars that are used to connect the more professional Lithium packs are well woth the extra money.
And for that matter why are small wires covered in plastic that burns at a low temp? What a stupid concept! Hasnt anybody ever invented a non combustible insulator??
Benmart,I finally took my 700 out on a shakedown cruise sunday went out about 17 miles,turned around,and motor or controller is out. no power,any ideas?what exactly was wrong with yours? Help! Randel Hanford Ca. Update! Sunday March 15th, hauled 700 li home,removed battery pack, stuck on charger, charged til full. Came home monday after work,put slime in tires,(both were flat!)installed battery pack, inserted key,turned on power, got on and went around the block! Rode it to work the last two days just fine. Low voltage cut off? temp? Any Idea's? Randel Hanford Ca.
Randell. I have mentioned before, and others have also, that our throttles sometimes seem to lose connectivity. I have had mine do it on three different occasions. When it happened I just twisted the throttle repeatedly until it took off again. I only had to twist it three or four times to get it to go. Just a thought that maybe you had the same issue and it didn't resolve while you were out. My scoot still runs like a top. I have over 800 miles on it as of today.
Happy and safe scooting. Scott.
When my hub motor died, no amount of charging, twisting the throttle or praying helped. I put the bike on the center stand and the rear wheel would spin a few inches and stop and then not respond altogether. Fortunately Randel, your problem seems to be correctly described by Scott as a sticky throttle.
I too have had this on and off problem...all to often at the changing of a signal light from red to green. It's a sinking feeling to have four or more cars behind you only to twist the throttle go nowheres!
I hope you 700Li keeps scooting. Mine is still running and I ride it to work most every day.
There are currently 0 users online.
Support V is for Voltage
Disclosure: Monetized by Skimlinks
Communal learning about moving our butts around town without burning fossil fuels.