Schwinn Stealth ST-1000

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bionic joints man
Last seen: 14 years 9 months ago
Joined: Thursday, February 28, 2008 - 15:28
Points: 2
Schwinn Stealth ST-1000

Hi all,

I'm wondering if anyone has advice on how do a few things to my scooter. I'm trying to do the following:

-Install low powered head light, tail light, & turn signals. I picked up a pair of very small tear-drop shaped turn lights with wires. I have no head light or tail light or wiring for them, and I'm not sure how or where to tap/plug in. How does one go about adding "any" electric accesseries or additions?

-I want to get a keyed switch (either in addition to, or to replace the existing toggle switch for "on/off"), but don't know which type I need. Do I use the 2, 3, 4, or 5-wire type? How do I wire it in? I assume a 12V switch is appropriate...?

- I would like to have a speedometer. I found the Black AS8® Digital Speedometer at Is this a do-able idea?

-I'd like to tow a baby buggy for my granddaughter to ride along. Like the ones people tow behind bikes. Any ideas?

-Are there any off-the-shelf brackets for rear-mounting a basket on my scooter? I picked up a decent looking black mesh basket which has a small plate on the bottom (1" X 2"). I can't seem to find a good bracket. If needed, I'll just make one.

I have been having a blast getting started using my scooter and really appreciate all this website does to help newbies like me. Thanks to all of you.

Very best regards to all, bionic joints man
Dan Holley-Ventura

e-doggies's picture
Last seen: 8 years 7 months ago
Joined: Sunday, December 30, 2007 - 10:15
Points: 290
Re: Schwinn Stealth ST-1000


If you stay with 12V lighting, you should have an easier time finding the lights and bulbs you need. The other option is 36V, the same as the Stealth total system voltage. Finding what you want and like might be more challenging with 36V.

If you use 12V, you have more choices. (1)Tap the power from just one of your 12V batteries. That will cause the pack to become more out-of-balance when you use the lights, and may not be equalized when you re-charge with a serial (stock) 36V charger. (2)Add a DC-DC converter that would pick-up 36V from the entire pack so it would not drain one battery more than the others, and output the 12V you need for accessories. (3) Add a separate 12V battery somewhere dedicated to just the electrical accessories. You would need a separate 12V charger to recharge this battery by itself. This would essentially be a stand-alone. You'd need a fuse and switch(s) to complete the accessories circuit.

There are some neat handlebar cluster switch assemblies available that include lights on/off, turn signal L/R, and even a horn.

Your stock rocker switch is rated at 32A and carries all the current from the battery to the motor. If you directly replace it with a key switch, they won't be able to handle that load. An alternative would be to let the key switch control a solenoid (contactor) that would make the higher amp connection from battery to controller/motor.

It's also a good idea to have a main battery disconnect close to the pack and before any other switches or components. Sort of an emergency "AllStop"! There's a lot of us that I bet don't have that, but we should.

You could add a "keyed" disconnect between your battery/fuse and the main rocker switch. 100Amp ones are readily available. The only problem would be how/where to mount it. The key is removable only in the off position. Not a true key, as in "cut-by-a-locksmith", but it's not likely to break-off inside the lock, either. Might be worth a look. Simple to wire-in and provides a measure of security. Could also prevent anyone from turning your lights on while you're away. But, if you use a single 12V battery to power all your lights, you would still need a lockable or unaccessible switch for that circuit.

A simple 2-wire key switch will be fine if all you want to do is shut-down and lock ALL functions. If you'd like to be able to turn on your lights or blow your horn without enabling the controller, you would need a switch with 2 or more positions and 3 or more leads.

Can't help you with the speedometer. I never really cared if I was going 13 or 15mph on my Stealth. It was just full throttle, that's all I cared about. The buggy will slow you down some and reduce your range. Of course, you could also add a parallel pack of 36V on the trailer with an easy disconnect.

The trailers I've seen have either a straight tounge in the center that attaches to the seat downtube, or an offset hitch that bends in and fastens to the left rear axle. I think it would be hard to make a bracket to fasten the offset one to the Stealth swingarm. Maybe you could make a bracket that would fasten to those vertical plates with the square holes in them that don't seem to be serving a useful purpose on the underside of the rear frame. I guess they're there to add some strength to the tail.

One of my Stealths has a tapered seat post with threaded inserts that could be used to fasten the front of a rack or a bracket to hold your basket. Don't think you'll have much luck finding anything off-the-shelf that will just line-up and bolt-on.

Keep us updated. Remember that pictures are always appreciated.


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