Think I just blew my controller too

34 posts / 0 new
Last post
Arno J. Wulfert
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 15:46
Points: 94
Think I just blew my controller too

Hey Electric Stinger, Dogman and all who may help,

Think I just blew my controller too... You guys have seen my setup on the post "New 48Volt 20Amp Ping with pics... Since moving to the Ping, I'm guessing I've logged 300 - 400 Miles. Today is a really nice day for Missouri this time of year. Got out the WE BL36 and took it to work and back... Put about 5 miles on the bike coming back home with a fully charged Ping. Decided to pass up my house and run to the post office. A mile from home, it Blew!!!! Started to make a little grinding noise at the front wheel. I looked at the Speedo and was going 29 mph on level ground. All of a sudden, no power??? The throttle lights up, both red and green but nothing going on at the wheel??? Came home, switched out the ping and put the stock charged 36 volt SLAs - and pleanty of light at the throttle but nothing to the wheel. Now this is a brushless setup so I'm hoping its not the motor...

About the controller - it is the stock WE BL36 with the higher rated caps inside.... worked great with the added power until today... I guess its not the throttle but reading Stinger's problem sounds like you guys would suggest its the controller... I was going to go with a new stock WE controller but not sure.... I'm not that skilled with electrics but did figure out how to connect the ping... The stock throttle wiring to the controller has four wires to the connector (red, white, black and purple)... I'd like to get something that would not be too complicated to hook up.

So, do you think its the controller? How hard would it be to change to ecrazyman's 48 or 72 volt controller? I know if I buy the WE stock one, its just going to be connect the existing plugs...

Please advise your thoughts.... I'm anxious to get it fixed and back on the road... too much fun!!!

Cheers,
Matt (Arno J. Wulfert)

reikiman
reikiman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 9 months ago
Joined: Sunday, November 19, 2006 - 17:52
Points: 8447
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

You probably checked this already - every so often on my WE BD36 the bike has no power when I initially set up to ride. When this happens I have to stop and reseat all the connectors. Eventually one of them reseats the right way and power is restored. I think what's happened is some connector(s) aren't having a good quality connection surface and/or other issue in the connector, and the reseating process ensures there's a good enough connection to get power flowing.

But 'grinding noise' stands out for me in your description. Did the grinding noise happen at the same time as the power went out? Afterward? Before?

- David Herron, The Long Tail Pipe, davidherron.com, 7gen.com, What is Reiki
- Electrified Electra To

Arno J. Wulfert
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 15:46
Points: 94
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

It made a grinding noise (like if you were hitting the throttle without peddling a second or two before it lost the throttle (power to the motor)... reak close when the power went out...

Something I did not mention: when I left for work the roads were damp but i did not ride through puddles. I wonder if mosture had anything to do with it? Might have been a little water (very little) picked up on the tires...

Arno J. Wulfert

Arno J. Wulfert
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 15:46
Points: 94
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Hey Guys,

Got a few more questions I hope you can help me with...

Can I bypass the throttle and controller and apply 36 volt SLAs or the 48 volt Ping directly to the front wheel with jumper cables to make sure the motor is OK? It has 3 wires to it and not sure how to hook it up?

Also, I found the Crystalyte controllers on line at ebikes.ca. These are discussed in Electric Stinger's problem below this one... Got some questions:

Contoller Model #C7220PF (24-72 Volt, 20 Amp peddle first) and Contoller Model #C3620PF (36 volt, 20 Amp peddle first) look like they might work but the connectors are different. My throttle is a 4 pin connector and the Crystalyles are three pin throttle connectors. Can I use the Crystalyte controllers and just buy a new Crystalyte throttle to go with it?

The 36V 20A Crystalyte is good for brushless 24-48V packs. Would that one work for the Wilderness BL-36? I'd save $40 on that one over the 24-72 volt contoller. Do you think I should just bite the bullet and get the 24-72 volt one. Will they work on the WE BL36? I'd rather spend the extra $15 and buy a matching throttle if that will work? Will it???

Thanks for helping me out...

Cheers,
Matt (Arno J. Wulfert)

Arno J. Wulfert

colin9876
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 5 months ago
Joined: Thursday, October 23, 2008 - 11:37
Points: 289
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Why do you think its the controller? Wishfull thinking if u ask me - its the motor that had too many volts going through it.

Over volting motors seems a common theme on this forum, but everytime Ive tried it has ended in a burnt out motor eventually!

In answer to your question no you cant put the battery on the motor directly. I guess it has 3 wires going to your brushless motor? which requires phased signals

Arno J. Wulfert
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 15:46
Points: 94
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Colin,

I sure hope you are wrong.... Anxious to hear from others.... Its a brushless motor, not sure what burn out...

Thanks for your input...

Cheers,
Matt

Arno J. Wulfert

dogman
dogman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 3 months ago
Joined: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 15:41
Points: 830
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Water could be the problem, in the controller or even the hub. From what I've read though, the big water problems come from clearly wet controllers,wet throttle, or wet hall sensors. BL36 has no halls. But dry it out and try again, could be a wet connector somewhere.

The only way I know to test the motor is with another controller. Brushed can be just tried with a battery, but not brushless. The electronic whiz guys may know how to test stuff with a multimeter but I don't. It would be a shame to replace a controller just for a bad throtte. But the grindy noise like when you start sounds to me like a controller gone whacky, maybe one wire to the motor getting no juice and the motor trying to run with just one?

I seriously doubt you smoked the motor, unless it stinks like it. 48v is nothing to these motors, but above that, I could belive it, or if it was over 100f while you fried it. I'm 98% sure your motor is fine. Of course, something could be wrong inside, and taking a peek before you buy a controller could be good. This is where having two bikes can be REAL handy, so you have spares to test with. Someday we'll have a handy ebike shop in every town, but now you are it for most of us. Opening the controller may answer the question too, look for burnt looking caps or fets.

Sad to say, running these WE controllers at 48v, which with a ping is really 56, may be a fine for awhile but not forever thing. Bear in mind that pretty much all controllers do eventually have a failure, just like any electronic device that is used heavily.

Options now.... If funds aren't too tight, going with a ebikes-ca controller is a good idea. An ecrazyman one will work too, and he is good at supplying the diagrams for figuring out the wires. Asuming its good.... your throttle will work with another controller but might need a new plug either on controller or on the trottle. 3 wires work the throttle, and the 4th the low battery lights. If you order a ebikes-ca controller, thier throttles are only 15 bucks, so that would be a no brainer to just get one. Worth it to go to half twist anyway if it works with your shifters. Figuring out the wiring for the controller to the motor will be easy. Only three wires, find a combo that spins forward and you are in buisness. Get some andersons to upgrade the connector to match the new controller too while you are making the order.

Unless drying it out works, you need, 1 throttle, 1 pedal first controller, and a bunch of andersons unless you want to splice in the old motor wire to the new controller.

Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global

dogman
dogman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 3 months ago
Joined: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 15:41
Points: 830
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

On the ebikes-ca controllers, they have such good service, they can tell you if they are safe to run on 56v. I'd lean to the 24v-72v version though. But any 48v pedal first brushless controller should be pretty easy to figure out the wiring for. A lot of info like that is on the endless sphere in the sticky threads.

Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global

dogman
dogman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 3 months ago
Joined: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 15:41
Points: 830
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

just looked at campsolutions.com,,,, Real interesting 50 buck controller there. 4 pin throttle too. Short wires mean you just take the motor wires from the old one. I'd be tempted unless you have a cycleanylist in your future.

Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global

Arno J. Wulfert
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 15:46
Points: 94
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Hey Dogman,

You are the MAN, Dog.... You have helped me with good advise since I purchased the WE kit. I trust your word and will move to the 72 volt with twist throttle. More Questions: The Crystalyte comes with a cycle analyst hook up to limit the amount of drain on the battery. The Ping comes with a built in BMS. Will I be OK just tapeing it off and relying on the BMS on the Ping to protect too much discharge? I really don't want the controller to dictate when the power is up. If I don't use it, will I still get the distance and power drain that comes with the Ping set up? I don't have to use it do I?

I do appreciate your help and will contact Ebikes.ca and order within the next day or two...

Thanks again,
Matt (AJW)

Arno J. Wulfert

dogman
dogman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 3 months ago
Joined: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 15:41
Points: 830
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

The cycleanalyst plug doesn't have to be used. But if you got one, you could use it to set other things like max amps, giving additional protection for your battery, and also setting a more conservative lvc if you wanted. I doubt you'd use the max speed feature,, hee hee. But you will see the same range and speed from the battery. Torque may be different depending on how many amps the original controller put out. I kinda doubt the WE claims of 50. Looking some more at the campsolutions stuff, they have a couple cheap controllers there, including one that looks like the WE 20 amp from the past. So cheap I'd be tempted to try one, but I can hardly say it would be better than a good controller from ebikes-ca. Those guys can actually fix stuff where others just sell it. Justin is the man in the ebike world. If you haven't yet, go to the sphere and read about his ride across canada.

Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global

strawhistle
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 11 months ago
Joined: Monday, March 10, 2008 - 08:43
Points: 340
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Hi Arno , do not put the battery directly to two of the three wires you would deffinately blow the motor !! to test the brushless motor 1 with any cheap multimeter set to ohms resistance / looks like a horse shoe ! there are many settings ! move thru the settings till you get a reading somewere in the middle of the scale when you hold the probes to any 2 of the 3 poles of the motor ! test all three posibility's ! if all three tests read close to the same the motor should be good ! oh ya do a continuity test between the body metal and all 3 wires there should be none Question does the wheel turn by hand ? LaTeR

thank GOD I wake up above ground !!!!

Arno J. Wulfert
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 15:46
Points: 94
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Hey Dogman, Stawhistle and anyone willing to help out,

Here's where I'm at. Took the controller cover off and looked inside. Didn't see any damaage. Blew out all connections (controller, throttle and hub) with a hair dryer. Hooked everything back up and nothing at the motor/wheel!!! Strawhistle, you gave me an idea.... Hooked up everything except the three phase connector to the hub motor. Then got out the voltmeter (tested it on a AA battery first to make sure it was working) Put the voltmeter prongs on every possible way on the three connection points on the controller wires that goes to the motor connection. The trottle lights are on. Gave it "the gas" with the voltmeter hooked up in all possible combinations and did not get any reading of power coming out of the controller lead that would hook to the motor... Thought I should get some kind of reading on the volt meter if any current was moving.... If this test is reliable (I don't really know) then it sounds like the controller is in fact blown....

What do you guys think? Sounds like time to buy a controller!!! I'm going to wait until I hear from you guys to hear what you think...

Cheers,
Matt (AJW)

Arno J. Wulfert

antiscab
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 22 min ago
Joined: Saturday, July 7, 2007 - 23:55
Points: 1686
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Hi Matt,

the controller, when working, will only apply voltage to the 3 phases when the hall effect sensors are hooked up.
an even better test would be to be spining the wheel when you are doing it, the voltages should rise and fall on the 3-phases.

spin it quickly, and you will have to measure the AC voltage rather than the DC votlage.

Matt

Daily Ride:
2007 Vectrix, modified with 42 x Thundersky 60Ah
Vectrix 60Ah Lithium Tyres Fuel Registration Insurance cycle analyst 2 x TC Charger & MC
conversion

dogman
dogman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 3 months ago
Joined: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 15:41
Points: 830
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Still a possibility that the throttle is not working. I blew a brushed controller once and didn't see anything inside that looked burnt. But had you seen a fried capacitor, you would have known for sure. Most likely though, you need to buy a controller. Ignore the comment on halls, unless you have the older model that has em. Still a very small possibility that you have water in the motor, from condensation. Usually that will only affect halls, but you don't have em.

Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global

Arno J. Wulfert
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 15:46
Points: 94
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Thanks Dogman,

Gonna call ebikes.ca today and order the 72 volt one today..

I will post a follow up when i get the new controller on...

Cheers to all,
Matt

Arno J. Wulfert

Arno J. Wulfert
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 15:46
Points: 94
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

RATS!!!! They've got winter store hours and are not open until Tuesday... Oh Well...

Cheers,
Matt

Arno J. Wulfert

Electric Stinger
Electric Stinger's picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 years 1 week ago
Joined: Saturday, February 7, 2009 - 13:46
Points: 5
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

the controllers for 50 bucks are Identical to the WE orig and they are open even sundays LOL
I know when I wrote to the Campsolution web site with a question he advise me they are 50 amp and good reliable tech info I had my stinger running in two shakes. the controller and throttle come together its just a thumb type but it works
and all the new WE kits are just 3 phase three wires those halls are for the birds
I started the old 24 250 amp Ananda hut with 48 volts too with the three phase wires
I wanted to fix my bike all winter and bought a currie to ride around on till I could
I have seen lots of 60 / 48 controllers on line but brushed.
In fact the Campsolution.com site is perfect for me and I have been electric for years I live on Electric st.

Double your pleasure, double your fun, with double the voltage

jnromero
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 5 months ago
Joined: Friday, January 23, 2009 - 10:14
Points: 12
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Has anybody here successfully used the Crystalyte 48A 36-72V controller, as seen here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Crystalyte-48A-36-72V-Controller-for-X-5-electric-bike_W0QQitemZ180328222691QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDom...|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

with the BL36 motor?

If so, what modifications were necessary to get this to work.

Thanks!

Arno J. Wulfert
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 15:46
Points: 94
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Hey Stinger, JN, all others,

Stinger,

Thanks for your input on the campsolutions controller... I'm concerned it might not be adequate for my setup... I've got a 48Volt, 20 Amps Ping and the campsolutions is only 18 Amps... The price is definitely right though...

Hey JN,

I looked at the controller you have on your link... ebikes.ca has one (probably about the same) for $135.00 (a better price)... Talking with Dogman above in this blog... Just add a throttle to it ($15.00), plus two Anderson connectors (one to the Battery and one to the motor)and hopefully we'll be good to go... I'll be on the phone this Tuesday when the store is open and buying this setup... Can probably find one cheaper but I don't want to blow another controller... I'm pushing 48 volts + and like the idea it will handle up to 72 volts....

I definitley will be back to advise everybody how it goes.... Going to see if ebikes.ca will let me return it if the motor is gone... I'm going to be real careful not to damage it in any way. If it is the motor(unlikely) then I'm going to move to a complete kit minus the battery.... Dogman just bought one like the WE that has more speed and distance. Check his link on this site...

Cheers,
Matt (AJW)

Arno J. Wulfert

jnromero
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 5 months ago
Joined: Friday, January 23, 2009 - 10:14
Points: 12
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Hey AJW,

This one:

24-72V 20A pedal first controller, IRFB4110 mosfets

on ebikes.ca is $135, but the one on ebay is this one:

36-72V 48A Start Immediate Digital Controller (IRFB4110 Mosfets)
0.85 kg (1.87 lbs)

which is out of stock on ebikes.ca, but I believe it is like $250 or something.

I guess the difference is that the first one is a pedal first controller, while the second is not. While I do not mind the pedal first aspect, are there any other drawbacks of the 20A controller vs. the 48A controller in terms of power? Or is the 20A controller more likely to die than the 48A controller when running a ping 48V 20AH battery? Not very good with all this stuff yet.

Thanks

Arno J. Wulfert
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 15:46
Points: 94
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

I'm with you... I don't know much electrics. Dogman of somebody else may be able to respond... I'm thinking 20 Amps will work for the WE with the 48 Volts, 20 Amp Ping I'm using...

Cheers,
AJW

Arno J. Wulfert

chas_stevenson
chas_stevenson's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 years 5 months ago
Joined: Wednesday, December 6, 2006 - 17:14
Points: 1309
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

hey guys,

You are confusing amp hours with amps.
1) Amp Hours (AH) is the measurement of power density for batteries.
2) Amps is the amount of current which flows in a circuit.

The battery you have been talking about is a 48 Volts, 20 Amp Hour from Ping. The controllers are rated at their maximum current output. The 24-72V 20A controller will output no more than 20 amps to the motor and the 36-72V 48A controller will output no more than 48 amps. In both cases the controller will pull from the battery the amps or current it needs, so if I had a 20 amp controller connected to a 20 AH battery it will only pull 20 amps if I connect the same controller to a 40 AH battery it will still only pull 20 amps and if I connect a 100 AH battery it will still only pull 20 amps. The AH rating and the Amp rating do not need to match but the voltage does. If I have a 24-volt controller and connect it to 24 volts it works fine. If I connect it to 60-volts it will let go the magic smoke.

Amps = power or torque
Volts = speed or RPM

So if you want more hill climbing ability you want more amps. To get more speed increase the voltage. I hope this answers some of your questions.

Grandpa Chas S.

colin9876
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 5 months ago
Joined: Thursday, October 23, 2008 - 11:37
Points: 289
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Gramps! Agree with what you say except for the remark that amps=torque and vots=speed.
Thats too much of a generalisation. Firstly gearing comes into play and secondly amps and volts are linked. Increase one and you increase the other.
Wats = Power is the only generalistation I would go with!

Arno J. Wulfert
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 15:46
Points: 94
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Thanks Grandpa an Colin,

Cheers,
ajw

Arno J. Wulfert

dogman
dogman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 3 months ago
Joined: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 15:41
Points: 830
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Pedal first and sensorless, are the same thing, Since the WE motors have no hall sensors, you need some kind of sensorless, pedal first controller. The start immediate controllers will not work. One of the reasons we point people to ebikes-ca is that they can explain which controller will work for you when you tell them about your motor. If you have an old WE, it may have sensors.

As for Amp spec on controllers. a 20 amp controller will better match the output of the Ping, but it will be a bit more sluggish off the line, and maybe slow down a bit more on a loooong hill. The ping can easily run on a 50 amp controller, but the motor will draw what it does with either one. A 20 amp controller will limit spikes and keep the battery in the safe discharge rate zone more of the time. Most people don't need bigger than 20 amp controllers unless they run the bigger motors or haul loads. If you really need the torque, go with a higher amp controller, like if you tow a trailer, carry lots on an extracycle, etc. If ebikes ca doesn't have them, ebay will. Just look for sensorless, brushless. Pick up a matching trottle if the one you have has the wrong number of pins on the plug, or get a plug from somewhere, like ebikes ca, or a scooterparts web store and rewire yours.

Sorry about the misspell, the cheap controllers are at campsolution no s on the end. I looked around for some other controller options, but most of the Clyte stuff is sensored that I saw. WErelectrified of course, has the stock WE controller, but if ya just blew one, maybe not the first choice. My favorite scooterparts places are pretty vague about whether the controllers are brushed or not, etc. I suspect a lot of cheap scooters are brushed motors. If you have to wait a long time for a good one from ebikes-ca, why not get a cheapie from campsolution to use in the meantime. Best way to not need a spare is always to have one.

Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global

antiscab
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 22 min ago
Joined: Saturday, July 7, 2007 - 23:55
Points: 1686
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

the equation for fixed field strength motors (of which the permanent magnet motors used in hub motors are) are:

Torque = constant * motor amps
motor Voltage = constant * rpm + amps * winding resistance

if you increase the motor side amps, you get more torque proportionally,
if you increase the battery side voltage, you can get the same torque at a higher rpm.

for series wound DC motors (which is most commonly used in electric cars) the relationship is:

Torque = constant * motor amps * field strength (field strength is roughly proportional to motor amps, but goes into saturation, so becomes less than proportional at higher amps. for below saturation, field strength = constant * motor amps)
Voltage = rpm * field strength * constant + motor amps * winding resistance

increasing the voltage at the controller will only increase power developed at lower rpm, if the controller has no motor side current limit.
on some scooter controllers, either there is only battery side current limit, or motor side current limit is so great relative to the battery side current limit, the motor side current limit is *almost* never enforced (as it is on my emax).

i would also add, that unless motor voltage = battery voltage, the controller acts as a buck converter, trading volts for amps. ie
battery amps * battery volts = motor amps * motor volts * efficiency

Matt

Daily Ride:
2007 Vectrix, modified with 42 x Thundersky 60Ah
Vectrix 60Ah Lithium Tyres Fuel Registration Insurance cycle analyst 2 x TC Charger & MC
conversion

dogman
dogman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 3 months ago
Joined: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 - 15:41
Points: 830
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Re Chas's comment. I often recomend that ping buyers keep the motors average amp draw equal to the battery amp hour size. This rule of thumb keeps the battery in the 1c discharge rate ballpark, hopefully increasing the likelyhood of getting the holy grail of 1000 complete discharges. So the best match for a 20 ah ping, is a 20 amp controller.

I run a 35 amp, but measuring my average output, it's still in the 15-20 amp range. But If I climbed a steep hill for the entire 20 amp hours, I doubt it would be so low. So if I rider encountered such a hill, it might be best if the controller did limit it to 20 amps. With my bl36 motor, the typical flat ground draw is only around 15-20 amps so most of the time the 35 amp controller does me no additional good. As I understand it, a 20 amp limit controller still allows a very brief spike of higher amperage, like when you start up. I just pedal a few hard cranks to get going once I am going about 5 mph, so I don't really miss any torque getting started. But pulling a trailer, or if the hills are very steep, but short enough, a higher amp controller would be wanted. Another source of controllers comes to mind, on the Endless Sphere for sale section, look for schenzen to find a controller vendor that can be contacted.

Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global

Arno J. Wulfert
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 15:46
Points: 94
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Hey Dogman,

You've given me "second thoughts" Found schenzen at endless spheer. It took me to ecrazyman for sale page:
http://cgi.ebay.com/48V-600W-brushless-controller-for-E-bike-scooter_W0QQitemZ300248682281QQihZ020QQcategoryZ11332QQcmdZViewItem...

This controller is only $33.00. He says its got a waterproof design.. Do you think it would do the job for my brushless WE BL36? I like that its 48Volts and should hopefully match the Ping...

What do you think? In the mean time I'm going back to ecrazyman and look for a twist throttle to go with it... Hope to hear from you soon bcause tomorrow I plan to buy the ebikes.ca one when the store opens...

Do appreciate all your help...

Cheers,
Matt (ajw)

Arno J. Wulfert

Arno J. Wulfert
Offline
Last seen: 10 years 2 weeks ago
Joined: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 - 15:46
Points: 94
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

Well,

With the throttle and shipping (more than the price of the controller) its up to $88.00. I just wonder if the ebikes.ca would be more reliable and less likely to blow in the long run...

What to do; what to do????

Cheers,
Matt

Arno J. Wulfert

colin9876
Offline
Last seen: 7 years 5 months ago
Joined: Thursday, October 23, 2008 - 11:37
Points: 289
Re: Think I just blew my controller too

@Matt interesting post about torque, amp, motor windings etc. Very complex - whats a 'buck converter'?

@Dogman - dont u think ur being a bit extra worrying about getting the discharge below 1c. I believe its charging below 1c that makes more difference in cycle longjevity? And most those 3-5amp chargers are well under 1c?

Pages

Log in or register to post comments


Who's online

There are currently 0 users online.

Who's new

  • Elitesocietylondon
  • bestscooterskids
  • laychris
  • Torri
  • scarpesuperflyv

Customize This