will this fork work ?

Steel forks are preferred. You can test whether they're steel by bringing along a magnet, if the magnet sticks it's steel otherwise it's something else.

The real main difficulty getting a motor mounted is the size of the dropouts. That's the gap where the axle goes in. Sometimes it's a snug fit. It's okay to use a file to widen the dropouts a little bit, but every bit of metal you remove from the dropout weakens that part of the fork. The dropouts are critical and you have to minimize the amount of material removed.

Hi blairg, The fork that you picture looks the same as the fork on my sons Schwinn
Point Beach. His bike has a alum frame with steel front fork. It is well made. He installed a WE BL36 last summer and it is holding up very well

There is a lot of info on front hub instl avail on this & other form. DIG and READ, read, read. That's half of the fun of E biking. Good luck.

Also, A lot of the front hub bikers think that a torque arm is a must. (some don't)

Regardless of the fork type used (again, steel is preferred), I recommend a torque arm to be on the safe side.

Yes, that is a good cromoly fork. The main thing is to take it slow, and watch carefully for any indication that the axle wants to squirt out of the forks as you slowly tighten the nuts. Use a short handle wrench, and not too much force at first. Wait a few minuites, and tighten some more. Wait 15 minuites, and get one last bit tighter. As the washers settle in, they will allow a tiny bit of space, and the nuts can loosen over the first ride.

You can easily strip the axle, so at no time do you tighten with as much force as a lug nut, but using strong force but less than you get with a long wrench, get it tighter and tighter to settle in the washers.

Can anyone recommend a vendor for a torque arm??
We got a new motor for Grandpa's electric trike and it's spinning in the fork.
I've ordered a new fork, but think a torque would be a good addition.
Thanks!

electricrider.com

Amped bike has the best one for fitting all bikes. If the axle is spinning, you have a bad fork for a hub motor. Torque arms are to prevent spin when something goes wrong. If something is already wrong, you need to find that problem and fix it, not depend on a torque arm to cure a poor fit. If your dropouts are already spreading open, the fork is not safe anymore.

blairg, maybe this just about sez it all. If you hvnt found this already give it a read.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7732

Torque arms don't fix defective controllers either. But then, there is no regen on a WE kit.

Well, I think I will install a torque arm on my walmart forks.
For the WE 24bd what size should I buy? I saw a 12mm and 14mm on ebay for $20 each .

Should I just use just one or mount one on each side?
Also I guess I will start wearing a helmet!

Thanks, I actually heard from Amped bike and am ordering 2 of their torque arm kits if they fit the WE shaft. If memory serves theirs is 12mm on the flat and 14mm on the round.
I'm already replacing the fork, the arms are for added strength and safety.
Plus at 91 years old, I don't Gramps taking any chances......

10 mm on the flat, 12 mm on the round on my WE axles.