Don't throw away your burned out EVT controller just yet!

If you're planning on using a Kelly Controller in your Z, and you live in a hot climate, hang on to your EVT controller. The Kelly Controller has cooling fins all over the top and sides but none on the bottom. As a result the bottom gets quite warm, especially here in the deep south with temps in the mid 90's daily. I was looking at the EVT controller today and suddenly realized that the top of the controller would make a good heat sink for the bottom of the Kelly Controller. I have not done it yet so don't take what I say as gospel yet but I will do a step by step instruction post when I do mine. For now my plan would be to get an aluminum plate the same size as the base of the Kelly controller 7" X 5 3/4". Put the plate under the controller and mark the holes. Drill holes through the aluminum plate in the same location as the mounting holes for the Kelly controller. Now go to the scooter and cut a hole in the steel tray that the controller mounts to the size of the BODY of the controller wich is 4 1/2" X 7" or a little smaller. Now disassemble the EVT controller, remove the circuit board (there are about a dozen little screws). Do not remove the heat sensor siliconed to the fins. You will end up with what looks like two U-channels, (the top and the bottom) . The bottom has very small fins so don't use it. Take the top half and use a hacksaw, or sawzall to cut the sides off so you are left with a flat piece that is roughly the same width as the body of the Kelly controller but a little too long. Measure the size of the hole you cut in the steel tray on the scooter and with your hacksaw or sawzall make the EVT controller top a little smaller than your hole. Drill one 1/8" hole in each corner of the EVT controller top. These will be used to mount the EVT controller top to the aluminum base plate under the Kelly Controller. Drill the holes between the fins, drilling on the fin side of the EVT controller (not the flat side) to be sure that your hole doesn't end up in the middle of a fin. Temporarily mount the controller and aluminum base plate on the top of what's left of your steel tray. Hold the EVT controller top against the base of the aluminum plate under the Kelly controller and mark the holes that you just drilled in the aluminum base plate. Remove the kelly controller and aluminum base plate and finish drilling the holes you just marked in the aluminum base. Choose what size screws you want to use and re-drill the holes in the EVT controller top if necessary and tap them. Now countersink the holes in the aluminum base plate that correspond with the holes in the EVT controller top. Use flat head screws to fasten the aluminum base plate to the EVT controller top. Make sure that you countersink them enough so that nothing is sticking up above the flat surface of the aluminum base plate. Now put the aluminum base plate in the steel tray with the EVT controller top protruding through the hole in the tray. Now put the Kelly controller in and fasten it and the aluminum base plate to the tray. The deep fins from the EVT controller top will be visible when you look under the rear of the scooter, in that nice breezy stream of air as you ride down the street, extracting a little more heat from the Kelly controller. If you want you can still use the temperature sensor in the EVT controller top to turn on the fans but I would test it to make sure it is really coming on. There may be a reduction in the amount of heat that sensor receives compared to how it was used originally. Incidentially, I checked with www.mpja.com and they have a 4 11/16" 12volt fan that throws 80 cfm of air for $4.95 and it only consumes .45 amps which is less than what both of the original fans consume but blows a ton more air. I'm gonna get one and see if I can get it to fit ok. The Ohm Depot