My 72v ecrazyman controller showed up today. I have been reading some old posts about it that whome started. It is located here: http://www.visforvoltage.org/forum/4952-xb500-controller-wiring I Think I have the color codes of the wires figured out but the one thing that I see on the stock xb-600 controller from the schematic is a blue wire that goes to ignition and then the dc converter. The xb-600 shows an orange wire from the stock controller connected on one side of the ignition and when the key is turned on it provides power I guess to the blue wire which goes from the stock controller to the dc converter. I don't have that tiny blue wire on the ecrazyman controller. I do have a tiny red wire that is in a 3 plug with a big red and black wire that must go to the battery pack for main power. I am pretty sure that the tiny red wire has to go to the ignition switch. What does the tiny blue wire do on the stock controller? How can I get this wired in to where I am providing power to the dc converter from the 48v tap?
Here is a link to xb600 scematic http://www.markmilley.com/ev/xb600wiring.png
I have also included a picture of the new 72v controller and wires below.
Here is a picture I found of the new 72v controller and wiring.
I think this little red wire provides power to the controller circuits much like the blue wire did. If so can I just hook it to the were the blue wire went to on the ignition switch. I can then wire the other side of the ignition switch to 48v tap from battery so the dc converter doesn't see the 72v. I think that would work but I wonder how many volts this tiny red wire needs to turn the controller on. Would 48v be enough or does it need at least 62v which is the low voltage cutoff for this 72v controller?
I guess by the lack of responses no one know how to wire this controller to the xb-600. I got it in the bike for testing and I got it to turn on but when I pull the throttle it makes a huge noise. I haven't hook the brake switch part of the controller up yet. Could that be the problem? motor is not turn just a big noise almost like it is binding. I changed the throttle wires from the controller because they didn't match the plug on the xb-600. I wonder if I should have left them alone. I don't want to short this controller out so I am really trying to get some help with the proper wiring.
Never used that controller, but you need the wiring diagram for the stock xb-600 controller and match it up with the new controller. As a rule of thumb..... if you have a wire not listed on the old diagram leave it un attached. You can VERY rarely mess something up with no connection. But if you connect the wrong lead to the wrong place POOF!!!!!!
The noise and non-turning of the motor sounds like a problem either with the hall sensors or the throttle. I have heard of controllers that dont use the hall sensor, but some other way of sensing the motor position. I have heard this does not work out very well. Also.... some controllers are programable to the way they run... IE with hall sensors or not, etc. Perhaps there is a way to program this controller. I would read all the specs on it VERY carefully. Sorry I dont have any hands on experience with that controller, but following the diagrams of both controllers and using common sense has always worked for me in the past.
I am rather new to E-Bikes, but I went to school for Electrical Engineering and have a pretty good knowledge of electronics and how and why they work. Double check all your connections, leave the motor for last. If there is any question, dont connect that wire. Check operation at every connection. Then start the motor connects. Chances are, if everything else (brake light, control panel, blinkers etc.) work then you just have the motor left. Make sure the phase wires are correct, sometimes different controllers and motors use different color combos. Dont just assume blue goes to blue etc.
One last note... the link u gave in original post is for an xb-500 not 600. There are differences and its very possible either or BOTH have changed since that post.
Dave ; Tennessee
Sixpax, Thank you for the help. I did get it going. I found some help at the endless-sphere forum. I found a post that basically said what you just said about the hall sensors and the phase wires. Turns out that I had to switched 2 of the phase wires even though the colors were the same. It started working right away. Seems to be set up correctly. I did read that their are 36 combinations with hall sensors and phase wires to check. I downloaded a spreadsheet with all the combinations you can have. I connected the orange lead from ignition to the the 60v tap. DC converter is also working fine. The only thing that doesnt work is the speedometer. The controller has a blue wire for speed sensor it says so I connected it to the white wire on the bike. No go. I did some reading and I guess that blue wire can be hooked to a CA compter. So maybe are stock speedometer can't work with it. I left it connected still and tomorrow I will check up in the dash and make sure everything is connected correctly up their. I have a bike computer now so it is really not a big deal. I will also test tomorrow and let you guys know how it goes at 72v. Thanks again.
Well, I took the bike this morning to the store it's about a 2 mile ride and it ran GREAT. My bike speedo was recording 29 to 30mph 28 going up a little hill. These speeds were usually around 23 to 24mph on these same roads with 60v shunt mod. The bike takes off big time now. A guy was on a 50cc gas scooter at the stop sign and I was catching up to him when I turned on to the road behind him. I had to slow down a little. LOL
I personally think this controller is a good upgrade to the stock controller and the 60v shunt mod controller. I remember zerogas saying he didn't like it because it ran rough. I think I know why there are 36 combinations of phase and hall sensor wires. Some will work but the motor will be rough and draw alot of current. Others will not work at all. I had to switch the blue and green phase wires even though they matched up with the colors of the bike. I had to rewire the 3 throttle wires to match the bike wire colors. The hall sensors matched up with the bike, so no change there. This controller gets it's power to turn on from the battery pack. So I had to also wire a small toggle switch to turn it on and off. It draws about 60mA from pack when left on. We shall see how long everything lasts but for the short term this thing is a great upgrade from stock. A true 30mph bike.
One final thing the speedo will not work on the bike with this controller. The blue wire is for a CA computer. I haven't figured out how to make it work with the stock speedo. I use a cheep bike computer for speedo now so no big deal for me. It was always wrong anyway.
A month ago I also got an e-crazyman controller to work with mine, but was wary about using it because of how hot the tiny motor phase wires from the motor were getting after only a short test.
Captain, How long of a run did you take with it before you noticed the heated wires. I spoke to ecrazyman and he told me the wires from our motor are high temp wires. Not sure what that means but I did notice that the wires to the motor are very firm for such a small gauge. Also did you run any kind of no load test when you hooked it up. I have read that with the phase and hall sensor wires not perfect it can still run but it will drain alot of current. Current draw should be less than 2 amps with no load. I also read that most people aren't getting any more than 30 amps "full load" with other types of motors hooked to this controller. I think we have established that a shunt mod 60v controller will give 25 amps under full load. I know the amps of this controller are higher because of the low end torque I am getting. I hope it stays together under pressure.
I put it on the display stand and was only doing no-load tests. The (solid core) wires got warm after only 30 seconds.
Of course I got a custom controller built by him that was rated for 60 volts and 1200w, which may be a different configuration from the one you had him make.
I could do some more testing later, but I would like to be able to keep an eye on the wire temperature while doing so if possible.
Ok so that is why the motor wires feel firm (solid Core). I am not sure why yours got so hot. I rode for about 5 minutes to the store was their maybe 5 minutes and rode back home again. The motor and the wires weren't even hot. I think some additional testing like you said could be needed. From what I know the controller you have is the same as mine just the 60v version both have a max of 45amps. Do you remember how you wired it into the bike? I am planning to take a longer ride tomorrow and I will post the results of that. Maybe I haven't rode long enough to heat up the wires but it would seem to me that it would have been pretty hot after a 10 minute ride based off of the results of your no load test. If you can remember how you wired it before maybe we can compare notes and see if everything is the same.
Took the bike on a 5 mile ride here in florida and it is hot today. I did a constant 29mph except when I went up a pretty good size hill for florida and it did 27mph. It also did 31mph on some of the downhills. These speeds where all measured on a bike computer not the inaccurate stock speedo. I felt the motor and the wires when I was done riding and the motor was hot but the wires really didn't feel hot. I think that the stock 600w motor is getting pretty taxed with 72v to it but I am also not really sure how hot the motor got with the stock controller after using it. I did feel the motor after a 6 mile ride once with the 60v stock shunt mod controller I have and it was hot but I think this feels a little hotter than that. Does anyone know how hot these motors can or do get. I was thinking I could measure the outside temp of the motor if I had something to compare it to. If the amps and temp of the wires to the motor were going to be a problem wouldn't it have happen by now?
I recently read that the 72v infineon controller that I installed can be wired to a Cycle Analyst computer. If that is the case then there is no more worry about the amps of the 72v ecrazyman controller being to much for the stock wires on xb-600. The Cycle Analyst has the ability among other things to limit the amount of current being used by the bike. The endless-sphere forum has pictures of the 6 pin additional plug that has to be wired into the controllers pc board. Looks fairly easy to do.
Update on 72v, I took the bike for a 12 mile ride today. No problems at all. Ran great did 28mph for the first part of the 6 mile trip 26 to 27mph on the last 6 miles. I felt the motor on both stops and it really wasn't hot. It was warm on the brake side but I think that is do to braking. I felt the wires they were fine as well. I think the ecrazyman 72v controller is ok to use on these bikes based off my experience. I have 50 total miles now with the new controller. My calculation tell me you will gain about 4mph going to 72v over 60v shunt mode stock controller. I don't really think these bikes can hit 30mph on flats with this motor and batteries. 28 to 29mph is it at 72v. I also believe 84v would fry the motor and wires and I won't try that. Distance hasn't changed by going to 72v still around 25 miles based off the current state of my batteries. All and all it is a win I think if you want to add about 10mph over the stock 48v xb-600. I say 10mph because I believe that the stock xb-600 really only goes about 18mph. I hope this will help someone.
Thanks for testing and letting us know! Have fun zooming along. I'll be the guy on the slowpoke stock XB-600 waving you on.... (when I feel the need for speed I ride my $500 Suzuki).