It has been mentioned by a few others that XM-3100 models can have sticky brake switches that end up killing power to the motor, but I can't find the post that describes the fix.
I was running out of daylight and tempted to undo the whole brake lever mechanism today. It's frustrating enough when the brake switch sticks uphill at a light and prevents forward power.
It is a micro-switch on top of brake assembly. One of my bikes got stuck and I just followed wire down and I disconnected it for front. My back brake still kill motor as usual but front is only one that I disconnected.
Is that where you have problem is on front brake?
KB1UKU
Both brake switches seem to be sticky or tight, but it's more likely the front in this case. I'll have to look at it tomorrow since I left it parked at work. Thanks.
XM-3100 - History
* 60V charger dead on arrival, 2 months for new replacement. That replacement died in 2-3 weeks.
* 60V charger purchased as backup ($50) from http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=101156 It has specific instructions for plugging a
It looks like you and I have the same problem. I used WD-40 and that helped for a week. WD-40 is extremely safe for electronics as it was developed for it and it is called water displacement #40. Now called WD40 and it unsticks it only for a short duration. You need to figure a way to keep at least one safety switch in circuit. Stopping the bike and giving throttle can smoke motor and or controller. There is a switch on kick stand too.
Figuring out which switch is killing controller drive power is not an easy task.
Rusty
518-929-2018
KB1UKU
Source: http://www.x-tremescooters.com/electric_mopeds/xm-3000/images/adobe/scooterwillnotrun.pdf
XM-3000 -- Scooter Will Not Run Troubleshooting Guide
Scooter will not run
Customer says scooter is turned on, speed and battery indicators are illuminated but the scooter will not move.
X-Treme Electric scooters are manufactured with a safety device called a "Brake Kill Switch". This devise cuts power to the motor whenever the hand brake is engaged. If the brake kill switch is adjusted too tight, the speed indicator and battery indicator will illuminate when the key is turned on but the scooter will not run when the hand throttle is turned.
1. Have customer check the adjustment setting of the brake kill switch.
a. Ask customer to loosen the brake adjustment by turning the silver brake cable adjuster where the brake handle and brake cable meet. If this did not fix the problem, proceed to step B.
b. Ask customer to remove the battery cover and locate the set of wires coming from the controller (black box with all the wires coming out) labeled "Brake". This is the brake kill switch. Ask customer to disconnect the brake kill switch from the controller by disconnecting un-clipping the wire connectors. If the scooter now operates properly, the safety is adjusted too tight and needs re-adjusted. See step a above. If the scooter still does not run, proceed to step 2 below.
2. Have customer check the ignition.
a. Have customer raise the scooter so that the rear wheel does not touch the ground.
b. Ask customer to remove the 4 screws that hold the dash assembly together and un-snap the back of the dash to remove it. (The screws are located on the back of the dash that faces the rider). Ask customer to locate the back of the ignition module and ensure both wires coming from the module are connected. If both wires are not connected, the ignition is bad and needs replaced. If wires are connected properly, proceed to step b below.
c. Ask customer to obtain a small piece of wire or using a flat head screwdriver, connect the 2 wires directly behind the ignition together. If the scooter begins to run when the throttle is turned, the ignition is bad and needs replaced. If the scooter still does not run when the ignition is shorted and the throttle is turned, check the motor. (See page 3 step 6)
If you have any further questions about a problem you are having please click to open a scooter technical support ticket.
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Since the XM-3000 and XM-3100 models are similar, this should still be a reasonable guide.
XM-3100 - History
* 60V charger dead on arrival, 2 months for new replacement. That replacement died in 2-3 weeks.
* 60V charger purchased as backup ($50) from http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=101156 It has specific instructions for plugging a
So the troubleshooting guide says to loosen the brake kill switch. After unscrewing and opening the handle bar covers, I followed the electric wire that went into the brake. It's a strange toggle mechanism that looks like 3 washers and doesn't seem very reliable. There was some salt corrosion deposit on it, which I poked out with metal needlenose pliers. In retrospect, that probably wasn't a good idea if current may be flowing. After toggling it back and forth a few times, the brake light turned off and on properly when brakes were used (or not).
Now however, I did notice some noise coming from the DC converter area (underneath the floor mat, a little damp from previous rain). On the way home, I guess the DC converter burnt out. There is no noise from the DC converter anymore. I no longer have front light, brake light, turn signal lights... and the kickstand no longer acts as a cutoff switch for the motor. (That was surprising when I found out...)
So, no lights and a danger on the road without brake signal indicators.
What's the standard fix for this issue? The forum seems to have documented this problem a lot with X-treme models, but a lot of people seemed to have made typos and mistakes in their own forum explanations for how and what to fix. :)
XM-3100 - History
* 60V charger dead on arrival, 2 months for new replacement. That replacement died in 2-3 weeks.
* 60V charger purchased as backup ($50) from http://tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=101156 It has specific instructions for plugging a